[butkus1801]

Just bought this EV from finance company reselling previously leased cars; some have probably heard about these cars being sold from a ranch in Montana. Person storing the car thought it was a not running because of batteries, but it had been running 6-8 months ago reportedly.

When I received the car yesterday, the batteries were fully charged. Batteries look newer than 2008. But, car reads "Batt Err" on dash, but won't show voltage, and car doesn't run. The battery charge displays battery pack as empty. This car has an AC engine with Curtis 1238-6501 controller. First thought was that somehow the car is disabled if it thinks the batteries are too low.

Looking for solutions with the batteries not reporting voltage, near the charger under the back seat and trunk. Here is a photo of the area.


In the center of the picture between the two battery boxes, two 24 volt BMS were disconnected.

Here a close up:


and the two 24 volt chargers had 4 wires:



Then, next to the charger I found a connector with no connection:




Then I find this large green wire coming from the charger connected with only electrical tape to very small gauge white wire with black stripe. Unlikely wire combo visible in above picture also.



Charger not secured well and possibly not original charger?


If anyone has any helpful thoughts on any of this being related to battery charge display problem and no power, or other ideas that might get it running, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

[major]

Originally Posted by butkus1801

Just bought this EV from finance company reselling previously leased cars; some have probably heard about these cars being sold from a ranch in Montana. Person storing the car thought it was a not running because of batteries, but it had been running 6-8 months ago reportedly.

When I received the car yesterday, the batteries were fully charged. Batteries look newer than 2008. But, car reads "Batt Err" on dash, but won't show voltage, and car doesn't run. The battery charge displays battery pack as empty. This car has an AC engine with Curtis 1238-6501 controller. First thought was that somehow the car is disabled if it thinks the batteries are too low.

Looking for solutions with the batteries not reporting voltage, near the charger under the back seat and trunk. Here is a photo of the area.


In the center of the picture between the two battery boxes, two 24 volt BMS were disconnected.

Here a close up:


and the two 24 volt chargers had 4 wires:



Then, next to the charger I found a connector with no connection:




Then I find this large green wire coming from the charger connected with only electrical tape to very small gauge white wire with black stripe. Unlikely wire combo visible in above picture also.



Charger not secured well and possibly not original charger?


If anyone has any helpful thoughts on any of this being related to battery charge display problem and no power, or other ideas that might get it running, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

Hi Mark,

The photos show up as a red X. You can probably see them because they are on your computer, but I can't.

I don't know of any or many here familiar with the Miles EVs. Some of us do use the Curtis AC drives. And please, don't call it an engine. It is a motor. Posting or linking to a wiring diagram, spec sheet or manual would help.

Where are you located? Maybe an experienced EVer or club could help.

major

[butkus1801]

Originally Posted by major

Hi Mark,

The photos show up as a red X. You can probably see them because they are on your computer, but I can't.

I don't know of any or many here familiar with the Miles EVs. Some of us do use the Curtis AC drives. And please, don't call it an engine. It is a motor. Posting or linking to a wiring diagram, spec sheet or manual would help.

Where are you located? Maybe an experienced EVer or club could help.

major

Major
Thanks for letting me know about the photos. I wouldn't have guessed since they show on my phone also. A link to a wiring diagram or a service manual is exactly what I hoped someone would post for me. If anyone has a hint of trail for one of these for my make and model, please let me know. I'm in SC.
Thanks
Mark

[StanSimmons]

A manual for the Curtis 1238 can be found here: http://www.evparts.com/cms/picts/pro...C%20Manual.pdf

A datasheet for it can be found here: http://curtisinstruments.com/index.c...8%5FRevM%2Epdf

[Ziggythewiz]

Originally Posted by butkus1801

Major
Thanks for letting me know about the photos. I wouldn't have guessed since they show on my phone also.

The images are in your yahoo email, so if we were logged into your email we would see them.

You need to upload them as attachments (Click Go Advanced, then Attachments), or post them to a public image site and link them.

[butkus1801]

Originally Posted by StanSimmons

A manual for the Curtis 1238 can be found here: http://www.evparts.com/cms/picts/pro...C%20Manual.pdf

A datasheet for it can be found here: http://curtisinstruments.com/index.c...8%5FRevM%2Epdf

Thanks for the curtis manual link. Thats got me looking at things from the other direction. I can get it running and then fix the battery reporting voltage later.

The controller is not getting power. I traced it back to the main contactor. 77v going to contactor, nothing out. I found a diagram for this contactor http://www.ametekswitch.com/download/JBA%20-%204603.pdf It has three low voltage contacts attached. 2 from the controller and one from car firewall area. This is as far as I got this morning.

[evnz]

Originally Posted by butkus1801

Thanks for the curtis manual link. Thats got me looking at things from the other direction. I can get it running and then fix the battery reporting voltage later.

The controller is not getting power. I traced it back to the main contactor. 77v going to contactor, nothing out. I found a diagram for this contactor http://www.ametekswitch.com/download/JBA%20-%204603.pdf It has three low voltage contacts attached. 2 from the controller and one from car firewall area. This is as far as I got this morning.

Hi
We use a cut off if the charger is pluged in could your fault be along that line or has someone already tryed to fix it and given up
Does the ign power up the contacts or a diffarent switch

[butkus1801]

Originally Posted by evnz

Hi
We use a cut off if the charger is pluged in could your fault be along that line or has someone already tryed to fix it and given up

Funny, I happen to be working on the car today but haven't had much time lately. The owners manual does say there is a cut off if the fuel door latch is open. But there is also a beep to notify the driver, so Im fairly sure it's closed. I've been focusing on the controller and contactor. The car is sending no low voltage to the controller. I have sent 12v or so to the controller thru the number 1 pin and the controller sends the same voltage to the contactor thru 2 different aux lines which suggests the controller is working, but the contactor wont close even if I send a third aux line with about 12v to replace the keyswitch wire which is also sending no voltage. I am wondering what voltage or amps the coil in the contactor needs to close. I am sending the voltage thru a 10amp in line fuse. Contactor might be dead, but I want to test it correctly before assuming that... Any ideas?

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by butkus1801

Funny, I happen to be working on the car today but haven't had much time lately. The owners manual does say there is a cut off if the fuel door latch is open. But there is also a beep to notify the driver, so Im fairly sure it's closed. I've been focusing on the controller and contactor.

Contactor might be dead, but I want to test it correctly before assuming that... Any ideas?

Originally Posted by butkus1801

and the two 24 volt chargers had 4 wires:

That seems off to me, there should be 3 of them since your car should have 72v of power.

And if you get it titled and plated, I would by it from you if you get tired of it, just so long as its fairly cheap since it is a chinese NEV that goes at best 36mph stock.

As to getting it on the road running the AC version of those cars is apparently a basket case, the 48v DC car is as well but it will always move even if there is a battery error.

My recommendation is to manually bypass everything going from the charger & dash to the AC controller and set it up as if you have a homebuilt car. The sensors in the AC car (as you see) die and disable the car when there is really nothing other than non-replaceable sensors bad inside the dash circuitry.

Also the grounds all go in short order on those cars. Without going right from the ignition onward I can't say what in the string of maladys might be gone on yours. Also remember a couple folks have managed to kill the motor (though its not super common it happens)

Good Luck
Ryan

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by major

Hi Mark,

The photos show up as a red X. You can probably see them because they are on your computer, but I can't.

I don't know of any or many here familiar with the Miles EVs. Some of us do use the Curtis AC drives. And please, don't call it an engine. It is a motor. Posting or linking to a wiring diagram, spec sheet or manual would help.

Where are you located? Maybe an experienced EVer or club could help.

major

I own a 48v car but the 72v car had more unreliable bells and whistles added to it in addition to the added functionality of allowing the voltmeter and other sensors already built into the dash circuit on the older car to now have the ability to brick the car.

Nice setup.