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DIY Chademo

44K views 49 replies 22 participants last post by  oudevolvo 
#1 ·

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#3 ·
Yay I hope this works out...

Here is a diagram with the 10 pins:
http://www.yazaki-na.com/user_area/uploads/DC Charge Coupler Inlet.pdf

1. Ground
2. Control EV relay (1 of 2)
3. (not assigned)
4. Ready to charge control
5. Power negative (big cable)
6. Power positive (big cable)
7. Proximity detection
8. Communication (+)
9. Communication (-)
10. Control EV relay (2 of 2)

I think we understand pins 1, 3, 5 and 6. I assume #7 is the same as the proximity on the J1772, where the AVC2 control board has a proximity wire. It also might be different than the J1772 signal.

That leaves pins 2, 4, 8, 9, and 10. I assume 8 and 9 are the canbus signals. I assume the canbus signal has the car saying it is ready and how many amps to deliver..

What does the EV relay on pins 2 and 10 do?

What does the 'ready to charge' signal on pin 4 look like?
 
#8 ·
Bravo! I just read the EVTV blog detailing the World Wide Hack Team involvement on this project. Very impressive effort from a small geographically seperated team. #theinternetisbeautiful

I have to say I'm jealous still. Apparently this juice is not only plentiful, but also free!!!
 
#9 ·
I took some screen shots of scope traces at the beginning of the Chademo cycle. You can clearly see the two test peaks the charger puts out at the initiation check status phase of charging. The charger sends two large short pulses at +500 vdc so that the vehicle can check for leakage. This is the part of Chademo that all DIY'rs ignore since I don't ever see anyone add leakage checking circuitry to their designs. There are even commercial Chademo adapters that are sold and don't supply this important piece of electronics, thereby violating the standard and leaving them open to serious litigation should anyone be injured using their products.

Bender makes leakage circuits I would recommend using or if your a clever analog designer you can build your own circuit. Either way leakage testing is a requirement of Chademo to protect user from serious problems from leakage. Leave this requirement out at your own risk. Sell a product that ignores this and your setting yourself up for a lawsuit. If your CAN messaging spoofs this incorrectly your in violation of the specification, or you haven't understood Chademo correctly.

This example was shot using my EV Rabbit charging from a Fuji charger. I use a Bender circuit for leakage sensing.

Steve
 

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#12 ·
Prensel,
It looks to me like a Chademo connector would cost you more money than your battery pack on the scooter. What is the voltage and capacity of your battery pack? If it's too small, some of the chargers will have an unstable output into the pack.
 
#17 · (Edited)
These might be the droids you're looking for:
https://github.com/collin80/JLD505/tree/debug

But, the hardware is not widely available at this point. I don't know if/when the hardware will be up for sale.

So, to answer some previous questions. Will it be made open source? It is. Will it be offered as a product? Presumably some day.

The connector is horrifically expensive ($2500 to $3500) so I don't see it being put on a motorcycle. Also, I'm sure Damien can attest that Chademo chargers tend to not deal well with low voltage vehicles. You really want to have 300-400V if you're going to use CHAdeMO.

So, right now it's sort of the wild west. There is source code you can look at. You can cobble together the hardware. You can then slap it all together and get it to work. But, there isn't a nice generalized commercial solution right now. I think that EVTV will end up making it into a product at some point. There's lots of irons in the fire right now so I can't really speculate when that might happen.

EDIT: I suppose I should mention: We're talking about a lot of power here. You could kill yourself, burn your car up, or accidentally start the great fire of 2015 in your home town. Be sure you know what you're doing if you start to mess with CHAdeMO and that sort of power level. That said, it's less power than EVs tend to use anyway. Just be careful. You screw up a $30k charger and you won't like it.
 
#18 ·
These might be the droids you're looking for:
https://github.com/collin80/JLD505/tree/debug

But, the hardware is not widely available at this point. I don't know if/when the hardware will be up for sale.

So, to answer some previous questions. Will it be made open source? It is. Will it be offered as a product? Presumably some day.

The connector is horrifically expensive ($2500 to $3500) so I don't see it being put on a motorcycle. Also, I'm sure Damien can attest that Chademo chargers tend to not deal well with low voltage vehicles. You really want to have 300-400V if you're going to use CHAdeMO.

So, right now it's sort of the wild west. There is source code you can look at. You can cobble together the hardware. You can then slap it all together and get it to work. But, there isn't a nice generalized commercial solution right now. I think that EVTV will end up making it into a product at some point. There's lots of irons in the fire right now so I can't really speculate when that might happen.

EDIT: I suppose I should mention: We're talking about a lot of power here. You could kill yourself, burn your car up, or accidentally start the great fire of 2015 in your home town. Be sure you know what you're doing if you start to mess with CHAdeMO and that sort of power level. That said, it's less power than EVs tend to use anyway. Just be careful. You screw up a $30k charger and you won't like it.

Perfect thanks for linking :)
 
#19 ·
I'm using an arduino based board with integrated canbus interface for some of my current projects and planning going to use it with this also. I'll write/modify the existing code and publish it within a few weeks. I have seen that someone had 3D printed a connector. So at this time i think i could be available pretty soon.
 
#20 ·
Sweet! I'm going to be using the LEAF mini bonnet (hood) with Chademo and type2 (Mennekes) in the nose of the RX8 when it gets its next upgrade. I'm also about to upgrade the onboard brusa to the new NLG6 (22KW 3 phase).

I'd source a chademo connector from a wrecked leaf rather than 3D print one. We have a Cube pro and the quality is good but not really good enough to put 50KW+ through it!. Leaf ones are relatively cheap and of a decent quality.
 
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