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Warp11 Hv

46K views 103 replies 17 participants last post by  vmrod 
#1 ·
Has any used the high volt warp motor in a street car yet, if so how's the preformance? Along with my crawler build a buddy and me are looking to do reliable street killer. I see most people in racing running dual motors but we are looking for good preformance out of a single. We are looking into using a fox body mustang with glass finders, hood, doors,and trunk lid. Thoughts on drivetrain are the warp11 Hv with a 2spd and a soliton1 controller. Would this setup preform as well as a v8 mustang or camaro?
 
#2 ·
If the batteries can dish out all the power the Soliton1 can accept, and if the motor can utilize it all, you'd have about the power of a 4th Gen LS1 Camaro. You can buy batteries that do it, but I don't know if the Warp can handle all the power that the Soliton1 can dish out.

I'd suggest you head to http://www.NEDRA.com and look at the setups of the cars and their ETs, and use that as a guide.

In any case, lightening the car is a great idea! Keeping the tranny would be a good idea, for good 1st and 2nd gear acceleration.
 
#5 ·
Dustin: Then use the NEDRA.com info to Google on a particular car to find out more about it.

so many welps: Thanks for that data point. Is "Full Voltage" 336V or the near 400V max of the controller? Why don't both motors have the same max voltage?

Anyway, 230V at 1000A is 230 kW. After motor efficiency that's about 170 kW or about 230 hp at the flywheel -- so make that more like 3rd gen Camaro performance for a that single Warp 11 HV -- but it sounds like the other one is more powerful.
 
#6 ·
The combo of Soliton 1 and Warp 11HV will give you a peak power of around 240-280 hp at motor shaft with proper battery pack (96 to 100S in mind (307v to 320v nominal).

That will be really fun in your car (especially with two speed tran), but not crazy!
If you need crazy performance, you will need to choose a Zilla 2K or the awesome Soliton Shiva.
 
#9 ·
Well, yes, but not in any condition and not for long time.

From what I know, the Warp motor can take up to 2000A for few seconds. Some dragracer push up to 2000A inside this motor.
The only other reference I know is Crodriver who pushed 1600A in his Warp 11 HV on the dyno.... like GerhardRP showed.
 
#10 ·
You want a street demon?...then model your build off of this RX7...

http://evalbum.com/4222
0-60 ~3.5 sec.

The Rx7 has the same components as the White Zombie...which ran a 10.4 sec 1/4 mile with some amazingly unaffordable kokam pouch cells...

Notice that the graph shows 2000 motor amps is being drawn all the way up to 3000rpm and 1000 motor amps is being drawn all the way up to 5500rpm! Reason being is the amazing cells he has which dont sag much at all and when drawing 1000A bounce back to ~320V, in Series mode 160V to each motor which spin up to 5500rpm...so if your battery pack starts @ 400V max (3.4v/cell), 374V (3.2v/cell), sags 20% = 300V, so 150V each, then if 160V = 5500rpm then 150V = ~5156rpm. If 1000A = 200ftlbs in a Impulse9 then 2X = 400ftlbs @ 5156rpm = 393ehp


 
#12 ·
Is there a particular reason why you want to go single motor?
If it's cost then keep in mind the impulse9 is about 1/2 the price of a Warp11HV...If its just simplicity of the build then I understand, and the Warp11HV would be one of the best if not the best single motor to go with.

However if you are choosing a single motor, you will need a more powerful controller, something giving you 2000A, you will not obtain the performance of a 2011 5.0 V8 Mustang with the a single motor and a 1000A controller. If 1000A = 300ftlbs in a Warp11HV then 2000A =~ 600ftlbs.



2000rpm = 250ftlbs wtq
3000rpm = 300ftlbs wtq
4000rpm = 350ftlbs wtq

2011 Mustang 5.0 GT Auto transmission gear ratios:
1st 4.17 * 3.15 = 13.1
2nd 2.34 * 3.15 = 7.37
3rd 1.52 * 3.15 = 4.79
4th 1.14 * 3.15 = 3.59
5th 0.87
6th 0.69
Final drive 3.15:1
 
#13 ·
How do you compare a ICE engine to a electric motor (EM)? They perform very differently. Using peak values and matching doesn't seem to make much sense.

I'm not even aware of a rule of thumb that people may use?

1. The starting torque of the EM is much higher than ICE, but then a ICE can cheat by dropping the clutch.
2. The effective RPM band of the EM is much wider
3. Generally the ICE torque peaks at a higher RPM giving more hp.

Do you ignore "tricks" and just add up the area under the curve?

Measure 0-60 (which favours EM) or measure 0-120 mph? If you just measure 60-120 that would be harder to beat.
 
#14 ·
It doesn't match up and I wasn't doing that I was just providing data to the OP who asked for help on a system that was similar in performance to a ford v8.

Right the e-motor has the starting torque but if you don't provide enough voltage then it falls off at higher rpm. 2000a draw causes significant sag to even the best packs. So that 600ftlbs tq that I stated before may only be avialable upto maybe 2000rpm.

High revving ac induction motors like the ones tesla uses do have higher effective rpm bands so with lower power they are able to have similar performance to ices. However dc technology doesn't have the rpm infact the larger motor you get the lower the peak rpm you get. You need voltage for rpm but you need amps for torque and you cant have both peaking at the sametime unless you have awesome batteries.

A good 0-60 in the e-motor requires good gearing strategy.

There are differences so comparing isnt easy but maybe just comparing the area under the curve like you said is okay.
 
#15 ·
I was alway brought up with the k.i.s.s method of building(keep it simple stupid) so single motor seem a lot more simple for my first preformance build. I was thinking on a 320v pack and set the controller at around 1400 or 1500amp, which I would think would be a killer. I'm looking into the zilla 2k but I do have a friend who thinks he can build a controller, know any info or thread I can send him on building one?
 
#18 ·
now now, no reason to be so harsh...we don't know the skill sets his friend has...

Dustin there is a DIY 144V (144V nominal so ~158V max charged) 500A controller available from Paul&Sabrina for 600$ (http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/store/page3.html)

Your friend can start there, build that controller up, and then expand on the control and power sections to enable it to handle more voltage and amperage...I also heard that Paul has already started on a 1000A option so you could email him and they might sell you the kit with parts for the 1000A version...

Even if the 1000A version was 1000$ from P&S.com you could deviate from your KISS method, get two 1000A controllers for 2000$ and get two Warp9 motors for 3800$ = Total = 5,800$ vs. Soliton1 3000$ + Warp11HV = 3600$ = 6,600$

Jack Rickard's Dyno shows Warp9 delivering 250ftlbs of torque with 1000A which would be 500fltbs with dual motors & controllers!

Warp11HV would deliver ~300fltbs w/ 1000A
 
#25 · (Edited)
My '87 944 N/A came stock with only 150hp and the Turbo S eventually made 250hp. So I plan to start around 300hp. With a curb weight close to 2500lbs that seems like it ought to be enough car for me, but I'm usually not satisfied until I break something. I do intend to push the controller to its 360v 1400amp limit after getting the weigh balance and suspension dialed in.
I'm sure it won't be long before I hatch a plan to liquid cool the thing and give it as much current as this simple equation will allow: 360V*1400amp=Nm>$/wallet
 
#28 ·
Use applied motor voltage times applied motor current, that is your motor input. Then multiply by motor efficiency, 80-90% depending on heat and other factors. Then take off about 10% for drivetrain efficiency. That would be your rear wheel kiloewatts, times 1.341 for rear wheel horsepower RWHP.

Or if you want 300 rear wheel horsepower, calculate backward and see what you have to put into the motor. Then build a pack to put out those kilowatts at the sag level. Knock off 1% for controller efficiency, a few more percent for cabling and connections. Usefull to find a sag curve, amps versus voltage.

Then remember that is peak power, only made during the period before you motor emf starts to fight you. If you can use gearing to keep the motor in that rpm band to make that power all the time. But remember the Warp motors have about a 200amp continuous rating so don't put out 1400 amps for too long.
 
#30 ·
It's not so much about the "power u want to make", it's about for how long u want to make it. The Warp 11 is probably about a 20 or 25 hp motor approximately. This is a continuous rating. Like all electric motors, you can "over power" it for shorter time.
If you want continuous high power (unlikely, but possible) then, you need to look at water cooled AC perhaps or an air cooled motor with a higher continuous rating.
There are many mods done to improve (protect) a motor from destruction. . but it is very specific to the kind of damage anticipated. i.e., high rpm, prolonged higher current, higher voltages etc.
There are 8" motors taking two thousand amps. . . but for short times.
What is it that you want to do, and for how long?
 
#34 ·
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