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Volvo electro hydraulic power steering

208K views 161 replies 42 participants last post by  arturk 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone. I am new to the site, just joined today but have been lurking for some time.
I am building a small scale electric car just to learn the basics. Then I will try my hand at a larger vehicle.
I am now working out the power steering and have hit a road block.
I aquired an electric over hydraulic power steering pump from a 2005 V50 Volvo.
I am hoping that someone here can help me get this pump running. I know it works as I have tested it in a working volvo.
However it is not as easy as hooking up 12VDC to get it to turn on. The host vehicle employs a host of sensors to comunicate with the pumps motor.
Does anyone have any idea as to how to bypass the sensors and still allow the motor to run? Here is a PDF file and a picture that explains much of the pumps workings. Thank you very much for any and all help,
Marco
View attachment Volvo steering pump PDF.pdf

 
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#86 · (Edited)
Thank you. For clarification, I probably should mention my pump is from a 2005 Volvo S40. It's clearly marked FOMOCO on the side, and is the same pump used in Ford Focus and Escape hybrids. The TRW model is JER153

Like your Alfa, my Mustang had an engine driven pump, with no variable input. Friends with newer Mustangs with the epas steering rack have a knob they can play with to vary feel, plus the system is speed related, so I feel a little jealous.

I did find this article to be informative, but I'm not electrically savvy enough to try it (yet!). It might be useful to those considering the arduino, as this appears to be a simpler solution to actually having to program a device. This appears to simply have two potentiometers (pots) that you can set thresholds with, and you still have speed sensitive steering.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111532

I also found this Arduino adapter information, for those who want to experiment with this (and then sell me one:))

http://arduinodev.com/hardware/obd-kit/
 
#108 ·
be informative, but I'm not electrically savvy enough to try it (yet!). It might be useful to those consideri
I can probably hack the CAN bus to the PS pump. I would need a car to plug into though to collect the CAN traffic. I just bought one of the Volvo pumps off eBay I'm going to use for the power steering in an electric boat conversion.

If there is anyone in the so cal area that has a Volvo with EPS, and wants to stop by long enough for me to grab the CAN info, I can probably have the CAN data figured out in a week or so.

Brian
Hi Brian, did you ever figure out the CAN packets for controlling the Volvo power steering pump output pressure?
 
#87 ·
Has anyone had any luck using the CAN bus with this pump?
I would like to use one on a sail boat for the auto pilot when sailing. ( every watt counts)
Minimum speed until the autopilot opens the solenoid. The power function ( gray / blue stripe) wire could be used if the pump didn't delay for 2.5 seconds.
 
#88 ·
I'd also be strongly interested in the CAN messages or at least ID's of the pump. I installed a JER161 and it works in emergency mode. The downside: it's noisy.. the noisiest part of my car. So reducing RPM via would certainly be helpful. I tried to get info from TRW but they're blocking - no OEM, no support, not even a simple CAN matrix which would help already a lot.
I do see some messages sent by the pump but it does not react on anything I've sent so far. Unfortunately the guy at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFH1XMlEj4Y is completely unresponsive too.
The pump works ok, but at the moment I don't recommend it... only as an emergency solution.
 
#89 ·
A new find: check out this video
Apparently Fenix Electronics produces two devices which test electronic power steering pumps: a sophisticated Autotester for $600.- upwards and a simple box which just sends CAN commands (as seen in the video above) for $170.- . The one for Ford Focus CMAX looks very simmilar to the TRW JER 161 I use but has one plug more. I'm going to check with them if it'd also work. Then we could grab the CAN messages.
On this video you see how they change the steering wheel speed and the pump immediately reacts.

Does someone have access to such a device?
 
#90 ·
I'm still interested in an active or passive (rheostat) assist control. I've been driving my Mustang for 2 years in the non can connected limp home mode. Works fine at anything above 3 or 4 mph, but not enough boost when parking. Any thoughts guys? It's a great pump, doesn't make any more noise than my fuel pump, and steering feel is great, especially at high speeds.
 
#92 ·
Good day All.
I am retrofitting a Ford Kuga pump to my vehicle and stumbled upon this absolute wealth of information here.
The pump is identical as used on the Volvo that is being discussed here and I simply had to register and thank everyone here for the info.
I have been searching for the last week and a half for any info.

I shall definitely update my findings as I go along with the retrofit process.


 
#93 ·
I know this is an old thread but hopefully this will help someone who can filter out the correct codes. Attached is a CSV and Wireshark PCAP file for all the CAN messages I captured from my Volvo C30 before stripping it. I ran the steering from side to several times and drove up to about 20mph so there should be some data in there to help. I was going to do it myself for my new race car but I decided to go with electric steering in the end as it has some advantages for me but not so much for the uses here.
 

Attachments

#94 ·
Nice to have a data stream. Great when people share.



I looked at the data There are 22 different ARBID's


0340412e
0100082c
0110483c
0300410e
19000026
01c04026
02000026
02104136
02804026
02c00020
00800006
0090411e
03800006
19a00002
19e00006
1b200002
1b600002
1b700030
1ba0493c
1a200020
1ae0092c
1be0493c


I'm not looked at Volvo stuff before so no idea what ID goes with which computer. (And I don't have the powersteering. I just find CAN interesting)



More information about the data stream could help. Was the engine running or off when the stream starts? What time does it start? What time does it it start driving etc... Having something to match the data too gives a piece of the puzzle. To identify what ID is what I find it easiest to listen to each module individually or remove one from the BUS and see which messages go away. Baring any inside information from the factory :)
 
#95 · (Edited)
The engine was running the whole time. I can't remember when I started driving it as it was a year ago that I made the file. Pretty sure the order was, start car, start recording, turn steering through full range then start driving. First part would have been a hard right then a straight with increasing speed followed by a complete loop, back down the straight, hard left and then turn off.

The Volvo VIDA system does give the identifiers for each computer in the car which would narrow it down but the version I have is missing that information. It's under Software/Advanced.

I did narrow it down to three or four IDs by looking at which had the most changes but never got any further than that. The plan was to connect up the Arduino CAN shield I have and just send all the messages to the pump with a short delay between each one. If it responded then I would know that was the area to look at.

I found that the default mode of the pump with no CAN input defaults to the PAS level for approximately 40mph which would probably be fine for most people but not for my use.
 
#96 ·
I signed up to comment in this thread. I'm using the same JER Volvo pump in my Civic Hatchback (I cant use a regular pump) and I'm stuck on how to control it.

I've seen the YouTube videos of it being hacked, but that company isn't selling the controller anymore. I really don't want to be limited to 75% pump RPM. At least if we could get it to run flat out that would be helpful.

Is anyone here capable of sniffing the CAN protocol to the pump and developing a control module of sorts? That's really where we're at I think. I have a friend who's much more savvy in with home brew stuff like this, but he would still need access to a Volvo with EHPS. If there was anyone in NW Arkansas who is willing to help out, I might be able to tackle it.

Thanks!
 
#100 · (Edited)
Some of the ID's have had thousands of commands sent to them. Others a few hundred, and some 0-100 times.

What's interesting is the order. Some of those devices don't receive CAN data for 8.5 seconds into the datalog, where others receive immediate data.

Since the pump defaults to fail safe mode in a few seconds, I'm expecting the pump to receive CAN data fairly quickly.

I still have no idea which one it is. I'm still putting together my Arduino and getting code written.

Any help appreciated. I'm almost there. Once I get the pump controlled I'll post exactly how I've done it.


EDIT: I have attached the new data set. I deleted duplicate ID's with identical commands (this removed over half the samples), I then grouped the data by device ID and kept the order in which they appear. No other changes have been made.


This is my progress as of 12/4/19. Next step for me is to get my Arduino assembled and functional.


Thank you to everyone who's contributed so far over the years, I hope I can make this happen for us all.
 

Attachments

#103 · (Edited)
CHF 202 appears to be very commonly used by many brands of cars, mostly European. Since many Volvo cars were just variations of Fords, it's not surprising that the same fluid has a Ford spec number (WSS-M2C204-A2), although it would be for Ford models such as the Focus, rather than the Mustang.

Assuming that the pump is from a second-generation (2004-2012) S40, it is the same platform as the Ford Focus (and Mazda 3), so it is likely the same pump as a Focus and various other models, but not likely the same as a Mustang. Unfortunately, the fluid normally used by a 2007 Mustang appears to be Mercon ATF, and the manufacturer of the CHF 202 fluid says not to mix it with ATF. This appears to be a case of picking the right fluid for the pump or the right fluid for the rack, hoping that the one you pick is okay for the other part, and flushing any trace of the other fluid out of the system.
 
#105 ·
So...I have two questions that I hope will be easy and concise.

1. For an old "dumb" diesel that has no ECU, what would the wiring be to run the pump in a "dumb" mode wherein it's just at whatever the default speed is? I read through the thread but there is just a lot of CAN chat in here that doesn't apply unfortunately. So a simple final take on a dumb wiring setup would be amazing!

2. My Isuzu (the dumb diesel) presumably uses ATF for powering steering by default. But from this thread and others, it seems my electrohydraulic pump came from a vehicle needing Pentosin CHF202. I'm willing to buy more expensive fluid (the Pentosin) if it means my Volvo S40/V50 pump (P/N 5N513K514AD, allegedly model years 2004-2012) and my steering rack will survive. Can I just flush the old PS fluid out and "upgrade" to CHF202?
 
#106 ·
Hi all,

I've got my hands on a pump from an S60, and aiming to integrate into my VW Golf project. This particular one (31340205) seems to have an oddball high pressure line connection, instead of a standard threaded fitting.

From this picture:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SlAAAOSw84ZcNPOI/s-l1600.jpg
it has a hydraulic line socket (with the red plug on the right), and the line is retained with a bracket, which is held by a bolt in the threaded hole on the left.

It looks like the corresponding fitting is integrated into the OEM pressure line assembly, and looks like this:

https://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/pwc/92641/image/3/

I haven't done much work with hydraulics, but this looks surprisingly custom.
Has anybody encountered one of these pumps? Any suggestions on adapting this to a standard threaded fitting or flared tube?
 
#107 ·
Sorry to dredge up an old post with some (probably) daft questions... This has been probably the most informative thread I've found regarding retrofitting EHPAS pumps.

I'm looking at running an EH pump on my IC car, instead of the current crank driven one. Partly for efficiency, partly because the current pump is pretty tired, partly because the plumbing and reservoir is currently a bit untidy (from the factory), and partly for L-R weight distribution (even though I'll never be able to feel the difference).

So the current pump on my car is specced for 120BAR...that's about all the tech info I can find on it, other than power consumption (400W~2kW). I think the simplest retrofit would be the Vauxhall/Opel/Holden Astra G pump (TRW gen II), which is rated to 85BAR. By the way, this pump is also specced on base model Astra H's. This pump seems to have a few TRW part no's though I'm not sure on the differences except LHD/RHD. I think the main part no for this pump is JER100.

My first question is, will the shortfall in rated pressure be a problem for most driving? I think the answer is 'no', but just thought I'd check. Extra weight for parking I'm not so worried about; more concerned about potential emergency maneuvers etc.

If the shortfall in pressure is likely to be an issue, I think that the pump for a Vauxhall/Opel Meriva B may operate in the same way as the Astra unit (no CAN bus), but rated to 110BAR; TRW part JER108 or maybe JER154. Anyone got any experience with these? I'd like to avoid them unless I have to, since parts are much more expensive.

Finally, with the motor housings of these pumps looking so similar, would it potentially be possible to swap the control circuitry from the Astra pump (no can required) into the Volvo unit, thereby creating a 120BAR pump which doesn't require can input?

Thanks for any input.
 
#109 · (Edited)
Howdy everyone. I got one of these units on eBay and decided to take a poke at the CAN comms. I downloaded the log generated by adrianm and proceeded to replay it to the unit. It does affect the RPM of the pump, however, only for the first five seconds of runtime. A few notes below:

When you power this unit on (with the two large power wires, and one small ignition wire) it will wait for two seconds, then enter failsafe mode when there aren't any CAN comms present. Failsafe mode seems to run the pump at around 50%-70% RPM.

The unit appears to only care about two IDs, 2e414003 and 0e410003.
0e410003: It seems to use this to to know if the CAN bus is alive. If it is seeing messages with this ID upon startup, it immediately starts cranking and doesn't wait that two second failsafe delay.
2e414003: Seems to affect the speed. The second byte (ie index 1) causes the speed to change, but only for the first five seconds of runtime. More notes below. Maybe is steering velocity, vehicle speed, or a hydraulic pressure?

I can successfully command the units speed using 2e414003, however, only for the first five seconds of runtime. After that it stops listening to me. During those first five seconds it's quite busy on the network, sending a ton of messages. After those five seconds, though, it stops accepting my messages, gets very quiet on the network (but is still sending a few messages every second) and seems to go into failsafe mode. I'm guessing it's making requests to something else on the network, not getting a response, and entering failsafe. Without a working car I can't really proceed much further.

An interesting thing is that it seems to keep the speed it was previously set to when entering failsafe mode. So, you could bring the ignition wire high, blast some commands for the desired speed, and it should keep that speed. If you desire to change the speed, bring it low (powering the pump off real fast), then back high, blast speed messages, be on your way. It's a hack, but it's all I got for now.

I'm currently at the point where I'm considering other options. I'm not very familiar with how to fuzz on the CAN bus so I'm not sure if I even want to keep trying to make it work given how much time it could potentially make, especially considering I'd never have 'full control' over the unit as it's really listening for things like vehicle speed and steering angle, which my car doesn't have. I'd rather be able to just tell it what speed to run at based on other factors I'd collect, and be able to change it on my own.

This brings me to replacing the brains of the operation. Other people are saying this is a TRW pump, and that it's powered using a brushless motor. I'm familiar with the VESC motor controller which would suit this project. It has a CAN interface with a transceiver on board already so I can have it on my already existing CAN bus, is open source, and has provisions to add custom code to act upon messages from my CAN bus. Thus I'm having a hard time justifying hacking the existing proprietary CAN bus. Unfortunately, it looks like if I decide to go this route I may end up destroying my pump as there doesn't seem to be a way to open it without some sort of major tampering. I'll likely just run it as it is now and see how it fares. If I need more assist, I'll proceed further.
 
#110 ·
Howdy everyone. I got one of these units on eBay and decided to take a poke at the CAN comms. I downloaded the log generated by adrianm and proceeded to replay it to the unit. It does affect the RPM of the pump, however, only for the first five seconds of runtime. A few notes below:

When you power this unit on (with the two large power wires, and one small ignition wire) it will wait for two seconds, then enter failsafe mode when there aren't any CAN comms present. Failsafe mode seems to run the pump at around 50%-70% RPM.

The unit appears to only care about two IDs, 2e414003 and 0e410003.
0e410003: It seems to use this to to know if the CAN bus is alive. If it is seeing messages with this ID upon startup, it immediately starts cranking and doesn't wait that two second failsafe delay.
2e414003: Seems to control the speed. The second byte (ie index 1) causes the speed to change, but only for the first five seconds of runtime. More notes below.

I can successfully command the units speed using 2e414003, however, only for the first five seconds of runtime. After that it stops listening to me. During those first five seconds it's quite busy on the network, sending a ton of messages. After those five seconds, though, it stops accepting my messages, gets very quiet on the network (but is still sending a few messages every second) and seems to go into failsafe mode. I'm guessing it's making requests to something else on the network, not getting a response, and entering failsafe. Without a working car I can't really proceed much further.

An interesting thing is that it seems to keep the speed it was previously set to when entering failsafe mode. So, you could bring the ignition wire high, blast some commands for the desired speed, and it should keep that speed. If you desire to change the speed, bring it low (powering the pump off real fast), then back high, blast speed messages, be on your way. It's a hack, but it's all I got for now.

I'm currently at the point where I'm considering other options. I'm not very familiar with how to fuzz on the CAN bus so I'm not sure if I even want to keep trying to make it work given how much time it could potentially make, especially considering I'd never have 'full control' over the unit as it's really listening for things like vehicle speed and steering angle, which my car doesn't have. I'd rather be able to just tell it what speed to run at based on other factors I'd collect, and be able to change it on my own.

This brings me to replacing the brains of the operation. Other people are saying this is a TRW pump, and that it's powered using a brushless motor. I'm familiar with the VESC motor controller which would suit this project. It has a CAN interface with a transceiver on board already so I can have it on my already existing CAN bus, is open source, and has provisions to add custom code to act upon messages from my CAN bus. Thus I'm having a hard time justifying hacking the existing proprietary CAN bus. Unfortunately, it looks like if I decide to go this route I may end up destroying my pump as there doesn't seem to be a way to open it without some sort of major tampering. I'll likely just run it as it is now and see how it fares. If I need more assist, I'll proceed further.
Just for a reference I used one on the Tesla powered Mustang GT that AEM-EV now owns. It's been working great in failsafe mode. On the street and at the strip, the only thing that ever bothered us is the annoying noise. I fixed the issue on my latest Tesla Musktang build using a 2012 Mustang electric rack sending it a couple of Can messages and it runs in track mode. Works great. Might be a better solution for some builds with a little fitment engineering.
 
#119 ·
I'm thinking pump speed could be correlated to pressure if they have a flow restriction at the steering actuator. The system is always "leaking", in other words.

To maintain constant pressure, steering wheel torque/speed(derived from position) would need to be an input and the pump speed would need to map to those inputs to derive a pressure ("assist"). More pump displacement (speed) means more assist. More operator steering speed means the pump needs to increase its displacement to keep assist constant - if that's what's desired. The third dimension in the map is vehicle speed which increases or decreases the assist.

I seriously doubt you actually set the pressure as Brian suggested. You have to constantly read steering position and torque, and vehiclecspeed, and 3D map pump speed to it all is my thinking.

A dry pump would go into fail as a motor current sense being too small - implicit broken hose fault which is likely why it stops. You need a wet loop with a flow control valve (fairly cheap hydraulics piece) to simulate it on the bench, if my hypothesis is correct.

I think running it in the car, only mapped to vehicle speed will be kinda sucky and open loop with a constant pump motor speed command will also suck.

Need the steering wheel torque and position sensors and vehicle speed as a 3D map to pump speed to get it right.
 
#121 ·
I'm thinking pump speed could be correlated to pressure if they have a flow restriction at the steering actuator. The system is always "leaking", in other words.

To maintain constant pressure, steering wheel torque/speed(derived from position) would need to be an input and the pump speed would need to map to those inputs to derive a pressure ("assist"). More pump displacement (speed) means more assist. More operator steering speed means the pump needs to increase its displacement to keep assist constant - if that's what's desired. The third dimension in the map is vehicle speed which increases or decreases the assist.

I seriously doubt you actually set the pressure as Brian suggested. You have to constantly read steering position and torque, and vehiclecspeed, and 3D map pump speed to it all is my thinking.

A dry pump would go into fail as a motor current sense being too small - implicit broken hose fault which is likely why it stops. You need a wet loop with a flow control valve (fairly cheap hydraulics piece) to simulate it on the bench, if my hypothesis is correct.

I think running it in the car, only mapped to vehicle speed will be kinda sucky and open loop with a constant pump motor speed command will also suck.

Need the steering wheel torque and position sensors and vehicle speed as a 3D map to pump speed to get it right.
The thing is the pump doesn't actually stop. For those first five seconds, the pump is responding to the command and changing RPM in correlation to byte changes. After those five seconds, it stops responding to the byte changes but keeps whatever RPM it was previously running (and becomes much quieter on the network) and keeps on running at that RPM.

It's worth noting that this car was originally equipped with normal hydro steering setup, thus at idle (open loop constant pump speed essentially) the steering performed just fine. Thus my hypothesis is that if I were to run this pump at a constant speed as well (mimicking a belt driven pump) it'd perform similarly to the original setup. From what I've read, though, the failsafe speed (that 50% - 70% people have mentioned) might not be high enough for very quick turns, hence is why I would like to gain control over the speed. I can add a sensor to my steering column and when the sensor sees me turning the wheel very quickly it'll bump up the pump speed accordingly.

Otherwise, this post basically sums up my assumptions about this unit!

Thanks.
Of course that's not how a steering system works - it's never just short-circuited. The pump provides a regulated pressure to a control valve at the end of the steering column shaft. When the driver turns the wheel, part of the valve moves against a torsion spring (that tries to keep the valve centred) and so the harder you turn the more the valve opens to route fluid to one side of the steering rack (or box). So if you're not turning the wheel, the only fluid flowing is through the pressure regulator (which is presumably the bypass type, short-circuiting fluid from the pump outlet to the inlet), right at the pump.

Fluid volumetric flow rate (not pressure) is proportional to pump speed; the pump only needs to turn fast enough to move the fluid used to move the rack (zero if not turning the wheels) plus the regulator bypass flow. As a result, maintaining constant pressure (constant amount of boost) means a varying pump speed - very slow when not turning and much faster when spinning the wheel to park. It would make absolutely no sense for a control unit somewhere else commanding that speed, since it is pressure that needs to respond to vehicle speed and steering angle.

As a result, you could test the system with the fluid routed through a simple manual valve: closed is driving straight, partially open is turning the steering wheel slowly, fully open is turning the steering wheel quickly.

The varying speed is actually the original purpose of electro-hydraulic steering: rather than an engine-driven pump turning a something proportional to engine speed all of the time, regardless of what is actually needed, an electrically-driven pump only needs to turn as fast as required to meet steering needs, saving power on average. Ironically, the highest fluid flow demand is during parking maneouvers at very slow speed when the engine is nearly idling, and the lowest fluid flow demand is on a straight highway or while accelerating in a straight line when the engine is turning fast; directly belted to the engine was always a really unfortunate way to drive a steering assist pump.
Brian, you still seem to be under the impression that I'm saying the message I mentioned directly controls the speed. This is not the case. I am not saying this command directly controls the speed. I'm saying that when I change the contents of that message, the pump speed changes. I am not saying this is a speed control command. This is a cause-effect statement. When I change that byte, the speed is changed in a predictable and repeatable manner.

This message could be:
1. Steering velocity (how fast the steering wheel is turning)
2. Vehicle speed (how fast the car is moving)
3. Steering torque (how hard the user is turning the wheel)
4. A direct speed command (yes, it could also be what you seem to think I'm saying it is)
5. Any number of other variables the pump cares about.

It may then use that data to calculate a final RPM (or current draw, or duty cycle, or etc etc).

I do not know what it actually is. It's proprietary, so I can't know what it actually is without more effort that doesn't seem to justify the end result. Existing documentation on these pumps indicates that these pumps listen for steering velocity and vehicle speed, and do some magic proprietary math to calculate how fast to spin the pump motor. The post I quoted above this by remy_martian sums it up pretty well.

Also, I agree with remy_martian in that I don't believe this unit cares about pressure at all. It's likely not operating in any sort of closed loop, though I haven't seen inside yet so I can't see if it has a pressure sensor or not. I only think this simply because it doesn't need to care about pressure. No existing belt driven pumps care about pressure at all, and this unit seems to be designed to directly replace those. It's probably only varying the RPM at all to conserve energy and reduce waste heat, and is maybe basing that RPM based on steering velocity and vehicle speed. Supposing there is some sort of 3D map that takes both steering velocity and vehicle speed as an input and produces pump RPM as an output, you'd just have to tune that map to always be fast enough so you can steer comfortably.

I should make clear that all of this is just a broad assumption. This is a closed source proprietary device. We can't know exactly how it works. Hence is why I'm interested in replacing it's brain with something that I can make work however I'd like.
 
#123 · (Edited)
Hi everyone. I am new to the site, just joined today but have been lurking for some time.
I am building a small scale electric car just to learn the basics. Then I will try my hand at a larger vehicle.
I am now working out the power steering and have hit a road block.
I aquired an electric over hydraulic power steering pump from a 2005 V50 Volvo.
I am hoping that someone here can help me get this pump running. I know it works as I have tested it in a working volvo.
However it is not as easy as hooking up 12VDC to get it to turn on. The host vehicle employs a host of sensors to comunicate with the pumps motor.
Does anyone have any idea as to how to bypass the sensors and still allow the motor to run? Here is a PDF file and a picture that explains much of the pumps workings. Thank you very much for any and all help,
Marco
View attachment 6704


applinked
Mounting is really going to depend on your engine bay set up. I did some research a while back on using a electric pump from a mini cooper. They are BMW prices though, and you have to make sure the pressures are reasonably close or you can start blowing seals in the rack. I think your best bet is finding the SR parts.
For more options on electric, look into electric pump set ups for hot rods. I remember there being a few. You can find whole assemblies, but they are expensive.
 
#124 ·
Hi All
think I have a way to control them
Have it working on the Dodge/Jeep EPS using a ESC 60 Amp Brushless Motor controller and Arduino I still need to attach a Hall Effect sensor to monitor RPM but right now have a pot connected to control the speed and it works well

Does anyone have internal pictures of the Volvo Pump so I can see if it may work
thanks
 
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