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Warp11 Hv

46K views 103 replies 17 participants last post by  vmrod 
#1 ·
Has any used the high volt warp motor in a street car yet, if so how's the preformance? Along with my crawler build a buddy and me are looking to do reliable street killer. I see most people in racing running dual motors but we are looking for good preformance out of a single. We are looking into using a fox body mustang with glass finders, hood, doors,and trunk lid. Thoughts on drivetrain are the warp11 Hv with a 2spd and a soliton1 controller. Would this setup preform as well as a v8 mustang or camaro?
 
#36 · (Edited)
Jacks cobra is one of the reasons I chose to go with the 11hv.
I spent hours upon hours compiling research from the EVTV blogs/videos and many more on this forum, as well as studying heavily all info in could find on John Metric's "DC Plasma" and John Wayland's "White Zombie". Even then I wasn't satisfied, so I figured I should just call up NetGain and see what they had to say.
I ended up speaking with George himself. I asked him a ton of questions and he was more than generous with his time (Thanks George). We talked about different motor and controller options, gearing and probably a hundred other variables. I hung up the phone with a solid understanding of his product and what it is capable of within it's recommend limits.
This was great, however a new problem had surfaced. For those not familier with the Porsche 944, it has a transaxle, meaning the transmission is combined in one unit with the differential at the rear of the car. That by itself is a good thing, it actually gave the factory car almost perfect weight distribution. Alas though my 944 was born without a turbo so the tranny and diff are somewhat weaker than the turbo version. I needed to find a diff to handle the torque of the 11hv and the correct gear ratios to run. After a bit more research and a few calls to some petrol-headed friends I had my answers.
Out here in So. Cal there is company that does a lot differentials for 4x4 and hotrods called Currie; they make a ford 9" just like the "Zombie" but this one is independent so can retain the factory rear suspension. Differential problem solved - a bare 9" IRS housing that I could mount in place of the factory transaxle.
Now for the 'transmission'. The 11hv would develop enough torque at lower RPMs, but how to keep it in the power band for road driving? - Enter the Gear Vendors overdrive. With a 1:1 'first' gear and a .78 'second' feeding into a 4.86 rear end I was reasonably sure this is was a good solution. After one last look at the dyno curves from Jacks cobra I called EV Source (NetGain distributor and maker of the warpdrive controllers) and placed my order.

Disclaimer: non of this has been tested, not yet anyway, it's all just figures on paper.

I should have the proof in a few weeks once I drop the motor in.
I really should start a build log, but I'm not much one for documentation. I will surely though report my results once the car is off its jack stands and back on the road.
 
#44 ·
Once we're both done we'll have to compare results. I'm using the 11HV in a 944 with a stock turbo transmission (car was an '86 NA but the first owner put in a turbo tranny.... not sure why). I'm using a Soliton1 and small A123 pack (317V, 56Ah) I won't be removing any extra weight though, I enjoy the car with full interior etc so the finished weight should be around 2800-2900lbs.
 
#37 ·
Please do some documentation and photos to show. It helps others learn what is needed. I am working on my 66 Bug and I have an older model 11" Kostov motor and it has tons of torque and I can't use 1st or 2nd because of tranny hop. It hops real hard and bad. I need the torque bars to eliminate the torque hop that the VW is really well known to do. I am not sure how many have used an 11" motor in a little bug. Be aware of the great torque that your motor will provide. I have a Stage II pressure plate. If you go with any thing other than Stage II you should also look into hydraulic assist for your clutch. I may do that anyway. It is one stiff pressure plate.

But document and include photos. It is a good thing to do. Photos help if you do before and after.

Pete :)
 
#40 · (Edited)
Re: 9 Inch Ford IRS

You might want to consider the dutchman axle version, it is a cast housing and costs less:

http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/products/irs-housing-axle-package-cv-style

Thanks for pointing that out. In hindsight I could have saved some major cash.
I was aware of the Dutchman IRS, but at the time I was looking at having the pinion point towards the rear of the car. Currie is local to me and they offered to swap the fill and drain plugs because the rear end was to be mounted upside down. The original plan was to put the motor and trans in the rear and balance the car by putting all my batteries (CALBs at the time) in the front. That's all out the window. The final plan calls for the motor and trans up front with all the batteries in back (A123's)
 
#39 ·
Sadly I had to replace my iPhone before getting the pictures of the motor mounted up to the Gear Vendors off of it. I only have pictures of the work from this week - roll cage installation - just boring pics of tubing being welded. I've got the two separated again so that I can begin to fabricate motor mounts. Once those are done I will be sure to post lots of pics and info.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Figured I should post a picture of the motor since I have it in my warehouse. The dollar on top is or scale.
My motor is a TransWarp 11HV. It has the larger spline output shaft which is the same as the GM Turbo400 transmission and was build and shipped in late February 2012.
If it weren't so cumbersome I would hoist it up and bolt on my Gear Vendors and take some more shots. Guess we'll all just have to wait a week or two before I get to that.

Edit: Can't seem to get the picture to post, so here's a link: http://www.infaspace.com/gallery/944-e/
 
#57 ·
My understanding is that the motor should take 1400a @ 288v for short periods like drag runs without much problem. As long as you find ways to dissipate the heat you should be okay.

Bowser and I were talking about the fact that when we first got info on the 11hv it was rated just over 300v, cant remember the exact spec though. I believe for reliability sake it was de-rated. Keeping the armature from grenading itself, stopping brush arching and dissipating heat are all tough problems to solve at high voltages.
 
#59 ·
Can't say for sure, but I'm banking on it.

Like I told Bowser when he stopped by to check out the build, "It could go like a golf cart, or a rocket I just don't know yet."

In all seriousness though, I'm pretty confident that as long as we can wick the heat away and keep the voltage up, these motors will put out vast amounts of power.

Hang in there another month or two Dustin. I will be posting all of my data once we get the car driving.
 
#60 ·
Yes, it will take that current no problem for the 1/4 mile. . . although, the current may not stay up there the whole way. John Metric puts 2000 amps into each of his two stock Warp9's (with Helwig brushes) every race. It's all about duration. The warp 9's are like 10 hp continuous or something like that. Short bursts can be significantly higher.

Just make sure you seat the brushes well. Run the motor for several days at low rpm (12 volts, no load)

The best thing you can do wrt heat is to force as much air through it as you can.
 
#62 ·
Yes, it will take that current no problem for the 1/4 mile. . . although, the current may not stay up there the whole way. John Metric puts 2000 amps into each of his two stock Warp9's (with Helwig brushes) every race. It's all about duration. The warp 9's are like 10 hp continuous or something like that. Short bursts can be significantly higher.
Are John's motors really unmodified? I would have thought he had some tricks up his sleeve on those for sure.
 
#79 ·
Can you guys help me understand some things, people talk about there cars making 800+hp with like 1500tq. Now in the world of ice racing that would be deep 9s almost 8s and hitting speeds nearing 150 in the 1/4. But from my reads there hasn't been a car built yet to hit those speeds in the 1/4, what am I not understanding?
 
#80 · (Edited)
One acronym answers your question: RPM

John Metric was able to do 9.89 @ 134mph with his Fiero, dual Warp9 motors and dual Zilla controllers. The difference comes down to the low-end torque, in ICE racing most cars that have 800hp do not have 1500ftlbs, they have around the same peak torque figures and their horsepower figures. The extra low-end torque is what gets the Electric dragsters to similar 1/4 mile times with less 1/4 mile speed. RPM is the big limitation with the DC motors, Peak power and Torque are available much earlier in the power band vs. the ICE race cars...peak power and torque @ 2900rpm vs. 6900rpm?

In the graph he is comparing his Warp9s vs. the impulse9's that John Wayland uses in his White Zombie. Using the Zilla log feature to provide the battery outputs V & A per rpm, he gets KWs and then calculates torque from there.

 
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