[installerjack]

I am guessing it is around 500 rpm, never measured it.
My motor pulls around 150 amps on the 6V idleing.
I always have to charge the other batteries long before I charge the 6V.

There is a little delay and a little bump without the 6V idle but still drivable.
But much better and more like a normal car with the idle.

I bought my stepson one of those old Honda automatics.
That's a definite future project.
Sort of like the old fluid drives in Desoto's and other Chrysler products.
Jack.

[Coley]

On the older Glides that I raced, I put a looped line between the cooler fittings, so fluid could still flow.
If I remember correctly it had to do with the lube system, as to why it was unwise to just cap them off....

[installerjack]

Yes, I agree it would be unwise to cap them off on a standard glide, but, when the stator support is cut off (to make room for my motor shaft), the lube system is completely changed.

[esoneson]

Jim,
Got another question about powerglides.
I'm looking at a motor with top rpm of 11,000.
Do you think that the innards of a powerglide would be able to stand up to that? Then I could simply use the powerglide as a gear reduction box (1.82:1) along with a 5.85:1 rear diff and be free from shifting ever again.
Thoughts?
Eric

[Jimdear2]

Originally Posted by esoneson

Jim,
Got another question about powerglides.
I'm looking at a motor with top rpm of 11,000.
Do you think that the innards of a powerglide would be able to stand up to that? Then I could simply use the powerglide as a gear reduction box (1.82:1) along with a 5.85:1 rear diff and be free from shifting ever again.
Thoughts?
Eric

Eric,

This is only my opinion and I may be wrong, but from a gut feeling, I think a steady diet of that kind of rpm would pretty much overpower even a full out racing glide. (like BOOM )

I dont think even a manual trans would live long at that kind of input rpm.

If you are really planing to use this motor, find some way to reduce it by 1/2. It would be much better to put a 2 to 1 reduction in between the motor and trans. I have seen (don't remember where) planetary gear reduction units that would fill the bill.

A 5500 rpm limit is more in the range of design limits of any automotive trans, Plus that allows you to stay with a more reasonable rear end gear.

Just my thoughts,

[JRP3]

I don't know that much about powerglides but I'd think high torque numbers would be more damaging than high RPM's. Since powerglides can be built to handle high power race motors, and since they probably rev higher than 5500, I would think a powerglide should be able to occasionally go quite a bit higher. Pure speculation on my part, but certainly smaller import cars with auto trannys rev higher than that.

[Jimdear2]

JRP2 (oops I mean 3)

Race glides ($2000.00 -$4000.00 depending on what you put in them) regularly push 8-10000 rpm with 800-1000 ft lbs. But that is only for a 1/4 mile. They do get a bit hot, they do get torn down regularly, they do get new parts regularly. They are not often driven on the streets regularly.

For regular driving with a generic $1000.00 (home built for a lot less) beefed street glide (see TCI), my guess is 7000 rpm regularly would be a max limit. The clutch drum and planeteries in a glide are not that big in diameter, but at even at 7000 rpm your going to be close to the limit before they start comming apart. Maybe going to the available exotic metal parts, better bearings, then up the oil pressures and increase the lube flow for better cooling, Now we are back up to BIG money.

I'm assuming your talking about a converterless setup. With a torque converter you wouldn't want anything bigger then an 8 inch (big money) and even that at 11000 rpm yipes !!! I'd want some THICK metal around it. Also again BIG money.

You can buy off the shelf specal explosion proof bell housing and trans case castings, but bring money.

I've looked at the available A/C motors (like the Ford/Seimens) that turn those kinds of rpm, in conjecture it looks like the output shaft Ford is part of a gear reduction unit.

In the long run I think a converterless, standard glide with a 2 to 1 reduction unit placed in the area where the converter would go well with a high rpm motor. This would allow you to stay away from those expensive race parts.

P.S. I still want an AMPhibian.

[JRP3]

Thanks for the overview. Frankly with a motor that can turn 10,000 or more I don't even think you'd need a transmission, just a single speed gear reduction or just a low enough rear end if the vehicle isn't too heavy.
As for the AMPhibian, go for it, it's an easy build if you can find an old Max or Attex or something similar. The biggest problem I've had is the old ABS plastic body cracking, especially this winter. 10 degree weather and 35 year old ABS don't go together well. At least the Max's use poly bodies.

[order99]

Jimdear2-

How badly do you want that AMPhibian?

http://www.vintageprojects.com/go-ka...-kart-atv.html

If you can't find one for sale, BUILD one-and ignore the ICE configuration. It's a Plywood body though, so i'd probably seal the joins with a little fiberglass and swab some Deckstain/waterproofing on it. Browse the Homepage, you'll find plenty of weatherproofing techniques in the Boats section!

[mizlplix]

I just bought a second hand TCI built circle track glide for $250. I plan to couple it to an AC50. It uses a coupler and no flex plate or t/c. I will keep you updated as to how it works.