So it has been a few years since my last post! Here's the short version... I purchased some acreage just before moving back to Texas. Controller issues prevented me from getting the car inspected / road legal right away when I moved back, and I got side-tracked building up the raw land. Late last year I sold the land so now I have time (and money) for the Spitfire project again! My goal is fully road legal and tearing up the road by May.
Turns out cars don't sit idle very well. (Actually maybe they sit idle fine, they just accumulate all the same problems regardless if you're driving them or not!)
- When I got back in the car to test drive it, the brake pedal was sitting on the floor. So I replaced the brake master cylinder (4 bolts? I love Spitfires).
- Tried bleeding the brakes but nothing came out. So I replaced the front flexible brake lines. Now I can bleed the brakes.
- The brakes work now, but they're very poor (foot has to be almost all the way down before they're effective, although they're probably where they were at 3 years ago).
- Obviously I had to buy a new 12V auxiliary battery as well.
I'm hoping the rear brakes just need adjusting (that's the last suggestion in my Haynes manual anyways). I'll try that next weekend.
My DC-DC converter seems to have gone bad. Voltage across my 12V auxiliary battery is the same regardless if the converter is running or not (and the 12V battery slowly drained down while I was running tests with the car despite the converter running).
As a test, I disconnected the converter's 12V output from the + terminal of the 12V battery and checked the voltage across the output - it was something like 0.25V. Even if there is no load on the DC-DC converter, shouldn't it still show 12V?
I'm running through the checklist for a Texas safety inspection now...
- About a third of the lights illuminated on the car right away.
- About a third of the lights illuminated on the car after I bumped them with my hand.
- About a third of the lights would not illuminate at all.
I went light socket by light socket, cleaning them and replacing bulbs as necessary. Everything works except for the brake lights now. I found the plastic switch at the brake pedal that completes the circuit (to illuminate the brake lights) in 4 pieces on the floor board. (Seriously, how do these things fall apart with the car just sitting in a garage!?) So I'm ordering a new switch from British Victoria so I can have brake lights again...
I re-wired my 2nd contactor so it is not triggered by the foot pedal. I'm hoping the controller is happier with that. I did a short test drive up/down the street in second gear and the car performance was good.
I don't want to over-stress the controller or the transmission (from clutchless shifting), so my goal is to just drive the car in 2nd for now.
Does anyone have a source for the max RPM of an ADC L91-4003 motor? 6,000 should be safe but I imagine it would be higher?
Looks like my gear ratio is: 8.4 for 2nd gear ? (http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Size.html
If my motor is spinning at 6,000 RPM, then my wheels are at: 714 RPM ?
Radii of my tires are about 11" => 2*pi*r = 5.76' per rotation ?
714 RPM * 5.76' per rotation = 46 MPH ?
(Sounds reasonable to me, did I do those calculations right?)
Unfortunately the only road out of my neighborhood to civilization is 55 MPH.
If the controller doesn't blow on me (again anyways, I've already had it smoke on me once when I put it in 3rd), then I should be street legal in short order. Short term worst case (and probably long term) I'll go for the Soliton Jr and drive the car solely in 3rd gear.
Sorry for the long hiatus, but Bumblebee is coming back!