[dtbaker]

Originally Posted by 2fast4u

Question: How close can the battery terminals get to metal? Is an inch okay and should they be wrapped in rubber or something to make a barrier?

If you put the full rubber hoods over all battery terminals as you crimp on lugs you can go within an inch of racking, frame, hood, etc, and not worry.... remember that none of the high-voltage is grounded to the frame anyway, so there is little likelyhood of an arc unless you have BOTH pos and neg exposed too close to frame somewhere. The hoods on ALL terminals will protect you from accidental dropping of tools across terminals, etc. DO review cable routes to make sure that potential rub spots are held away from frame, encased in protective cover, etc.

I found that irrigation hose slips over 2/0 welding cable with a little ezglide, so I installed in a couple spots that could potentially wear from vibration.

I have some notes and such at http://envirokarma.org/ev/10.BattCables.shtml
and would advise that you buy or rent big crimpers rather than hammer-swedge the lugs...
and a series of pictures with some notes beginning w http://envirokarma.org/ev/gallery/09...5.complete.htm

[2fast4u]

Makes sense, and will defiantly get some rubber booties. Waiting for the crimper and the copper flat plate to come in the mail, so got working on some other things. Here are some pics...


Start of some racks:


PakTrakr In:


Looks stock:


Two Racks done (ish):


Waiting for copper and a top to be made:


Big wire Layout:



Thanks!
-Keith

[2fast4u]

Got some more work done the other day. Hope to have the car moving by tomorrow, then take a week or two to finish up the odds and ends.

Still need to mount up the fuse/break panel, make the two runs under the car (encased in protective shielding) and hook up the paktrakr and charger... Here are some pics

Front:


'Almost' Compressed:


Need to upgrade?:


These ain't 20's though:

[Bottomfeeder]

I had to upgrade my springs in the front, and put adjustable air shocks in the rear. But, it all depends on the size of your batteries. Let me know if you need some help doing that stuff.

Have you spun the motor yet?

[2fast4u]

I was thinking of the gt6 springs as they are a bit taller and have a higher spring rate. Will do some quick numbers to see what exactly we need later. Where did you buy the rear air shocks?

We have 6 x 80 lbs batteries in the front = 480 lbs
and 4 x 80 lbs batteries in back = 320 lbs

Tomorrow, motor will get spun (fingers crossed)!

[Bottomfeeder]

The GT6 springs might be correct for you, as yours doesn't look as low as mine was. I ended up buying 2.5" ID springs but somehow I got messed up in my calculation of the proper height/spring rate. I built some aluminum spacers that will work, but I might change them out later. As it is, I am pleased with my suspension so far. The car handles bumps better than most cars, really. It might have something to do with the increased weight? Ha!

I bought air springs for a Corvette: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S...shockinfo.html

I had to press out the bushings to get them to fit, but it wasn't too difficult once I figured it out how to do it with a C-clamp.

Now I can pump up the rear shocks to just the right height. But, one needs to roll the car back and forth between settings to let the car settle into it's new position.

Good luck!

[2fast4u]

Sweet, we might go with a stiffer spring as the gt6 spring will only raise it 2.5 to 4 inches (depending on how worn the front springs are) from where it sits as right now.

Update:
Got rest of components installed except our fuse/break box needs to be mounted and covered. The only thing we ran into is that the motor is spinning the wrong way. So we have 4 gears for reverse and one forward. Anyways, I don't understand how the motor works and don't know exactly how to reverse it. Also, We have the Adc 8" motor, and I've read that most motors are advance and spinning them backwards is bad for efficiency and the brushes. But to get it to spin backwards I understand we wire it as such:

B+ to A2 (motor)
M- to S1
Jumper A1 and S2


Where does A2 on the controller connect to and can someone make sure that the above is correct to get the motor spin in the opposite direction?

Right now it is wired as:
B+ to A1
M- to S2
A2 to A2
Jumped A2 and S1

THANKS and pics below!

[dtbaker]

Originally Posted by 2fast4u

The only thing we ran into is that the motor is spinning the wrong way.

Honda motors go the 'wrong' way too... I think it is just a matter of changing the advance. Hopefully somebody that converted a Honda will chime in, or you could start another thread asking this specific question. Failing that, contact the people at kts-ev.com or one of the other dealers to ask how to reverse....

[dtbaker]

also... those batteries behind the seats look like they are going to be a huge pain to inspect and water! does the battery tray slide out?

[2fast4u]

Going to make some calls tomorrow and see what I come up with. As for the two batteries, the owner wanted the batteries in a specific orientation. We left enough slack for the two batteries that they could be pulled out without having to disconnect, but with the resources we had available to us it was the best we could do.