[gdirwin]

Originally Posted by RKM

the EV bug has already claimed you.

Rob

Thanks for all your help Rob - you are right (woke up last night thinking about this, and had to do an edit) - slept better after that though...

Everyone keep the comments coming! A design review is most-valuable at this stage (ie just before I write the cheque, rather than after)...

[dragster]

Hi
The brake vacuum pump that is noisy is fixed by wrapping it in foam. You will need more vacuum them the stock chamber gives, make a chamber using 3 inch pvc pipe and pvc cap ends then drill and tap were you would like the fitting to come out. The pipe should be about 2 feet long. As for the power steering pump it uses a lot of amps you may think about going with an AC drive and use your stock power steering pump from your car and the stock AC unit. This is what you will need AC 2 HP 3PH 240 volt 3400 RPM Balder motor about $250.00 with a Yaskawa AC controller about $250.00 this will change your DC to 3Ph 240 volts AC and the motor will use only 2.5 AMPS.
You can see a pictures of ours on our site http://www.discbrakesrus.com/make/fordtruck/from%20gas%20to%20electric.htm

[gdirwin]

Thanks Dragster:

For equal power required by the P/S rack, it is a question of losses...

Comparing the 2 systems:
a) DC/DC converter, electric 12V pump
b) Inverter, AC motor, mechanical pump

If you add a separate inverter and AC motor to drive the stock P/S pump, there are more systems to deal with, and I doubt it would be more efficient overall compared to a direct 12V electric pump.

Yes, option a) will have a larger demand from the 12V system, but this is averaged by the battery - in theory if you sat there and worked the steering back and forth for hours, your DC/DC converter may not be able to keep up with the DC load - not likely however.

[Dave Koller]

what did you use to draw the heater schematic? Nice !

[dragster]

Hi
then how are you going to run the AC unit

[gdirwin]

Hi Dave:
I used a power system simulation package called PSCAD (I was one of the original developers and use it frequently) - it is a graphical simulation environment that does power electronic simulation (HVDC, PWM, VSCs etc...). There is a free demo version from http://www.pscad.com.

Dragster - I will use the stock A/C pump, driven off a pulley from the passenger side motor shaft (Warp 9 dual shaft motor).

It is also possible to use the stock P/S pump off the same pulley... This link ( http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...rgh-37556.html) shows some favourable experience with this... I thought that P/S was most important when you are parallel parking however (not when you are moving) so decided to get the MR2 electric P/S pump. If you could get a controller that had a idle speed (perhaps for an automatic transmission) then the stock P/S pump on a pulley would be ideal...

[dragster]

Hi
All we did was put a micro switch with a cam on the throttle cost about $2.00 and some machine work. You will find what works on a light vehicle & a heavy vehicle are two different things. Good luck

[gdirwin]

Dragster - Thanks for your input... I read your build thread and am most impressed - I had a 1996 Ford "Exploder" and am a long-time Ford fan (also have a 75 F250 Hi-boy). I craved the AC drive you used, but no room in my build though.

Originally Posted by dragster

Hi
All we did was put a micro switch with a cam on the throttle cost about $2.00 and some machine work. You will find what works on a light vehicle & a heavy vehicle are two different things. Good luck

Can you expand on what you mean by this?

[dragster]

Hi
We have the throttle set so it hits the micro switch when you push 1/2 way down on the peddle and this is fully adjustable. The switch then turns off a solenoid that is wired to the power steering motor. Our power steering module is mounted right behind the AC radiator and way down low with the battery's over the unit. A light weight honda with rack and pinion steering dose not need very much power to steer it but an SUV needs a lot to steer it that is way the electric power steering is only on the small cars. It may work give it a try but you still will not have AC when you are stop at a light.

[gdirwin]

After much measurements, thinking, e-mailing etc... I have a plan for the motor adapter (Rob/RKM has been patient and most helpful in this). Recall I will keep the clutch/flywheel, so a well designed and well balanced coupler is essential.

Here are some plans (made with Google SketchUp 7 - free!):

3D Top View:


Front View:


Here is the Browning split taper P1 bush (rough specs here http://www.drillspot.com/products/51..._Taper_Bushing ):



I will be very space limited with a Warp 9 motor in this transverse setup - there is only 20 3/4 " from the transmission face to the passenger side frame (in fact I may find I have to cut/shorten the tail shaft to make it fit - using an Impulse 9 is also an option, but less performance so trying this first).

This coupling design uses a reverse mounted Browning bush - everything can be tightened/loosened from the front, which means the coupler can be pushed as far as possible onto the shaft (which saves room). The standard taperlock design cannot be used here - it would require grub screws to be put in from the motor side, and if reversed (ie flange side out) then the weird pilot bushing cannot be added.

I choose the Browning P1 bushing, as it is the smallest bushing which offers keyways on both the inside (between the shaft and the bush) and the outside (between the bush and the adapter). The shorter H bushing would save more room, but no outer keyway is available (so there would be more chance of it slipping off - I don't plan to take this off again).

To suck in the bush into the adapter, 3 countersunk bolts are used (another advantage of the P1 size - smaller sizes only have 2 bolts and may result in more runout when tightened). To remove it, 2 (out of 8) holes for bolting the flywheel will be tapped all the way through, so I can insert long bolts and push off the bush.

After designing this (of course), I noticed something similar (without the fancy pilot requirement) at:
http://www.brownout.com/?cat=4

All suggestions welcome! Off to the machinist soon...