[CrunchTime]

Started today.

Only had the car and most major components since mid-March - been driving the BMW (and enjoying it - not very green of me, I know) since then, but now that it's warmer I've run out of excuses (like the car is now out of petrol. Forever).

Didn't get as far as I hoped (but then I guess having the engine out after an hour was a bit much to expect )

So I drained the radiator, but couldn't find the engine block coolant plug, which (after more research) turns out to be on the other side of the engine from where I was looking, and hidden below the oxygen sensor, of which I have to be careful apparently (since I want to sell the engine - anyone (NZ) want an M52 with 335k on the clock?). Tomorrow night, maybe...

I'm following the Bentley book to do the pull, but am finding that although it's complete, it does assume at least some knowledge (like what the exhaust side of the engine is - I thought they meant the exhaust side of the car, which is different). I at least know what they mean by "front of the car..."

Now to go move the jack stands - I think they're in a bad place...

(one thing is for sure - I'm going to know a lot more about cars after this...)

[jackbauer]

I'm doing a '96 bmw 316 myself and i can say both the bently and haynes manuals are rubbish. I'll give you a few pointers that i found. Firstly , pull the engine and gearbox as one unit. Forget removing the gearbox on its own. If you have the rubber coupler between the drive shaft and gearbox you'll need an 18mm deep socket , knuckle joint , 18mm spanner and a long power bar to shift the 3 clinch bolts. I couldnt stop the engine from turning even with the handbrake on so i removed the plugs and filled the cylinders with oil. Not an option for yourself as you want to sell the engine so i'd have a friend in the driver seat with both feet on the brake pedal.

Fuel tank removal is real fun. Forget the manuals unless you *really* want to sell the tank. Remove the driveshaft and disconnect the handbrake cables and pull them through. Then inside the car remove the back seat and the two hatches and cut everything in sight. Under the car chop the straps (forget trying to undo the bolts they will be rusted solid) then undo the center bolt. Tank will sit on the two trailing arm bushes. Get a good stout rope and wrap it around the center of the tank. Then get a few friends and go tug of war on its ass! Tank will fold in the center and squeeze out past the bushes. Emptying the tank is best done prior to engine removal by connecting a hose to the high pressure line at the fuel rail and holding the fuel pump relay closed with a croc clip. Be warned i did this and thought the tank was empty. Well it was except for the 4 gallons of fuel it still contained!

Not sure how much of this will apply to yourself but hope it helps. I have a few vids on youtube may be a help.

[CroDriver]

Hi.

A BMW 3-series is a great donor!

I'm converting a E30

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ad.php?t=28287

If you'll use a Kostov, I can make you all the motor-to-gearbox adapter parts you need







I can post photos of the finished parts later, I don't have them on this PC

Good luck!

[Thaniel]

I think 3 series BMW's make great cars to convert.

Not sure about all the trouble described in removing the tank. Mine came out very easy. But then again none of the bolts on mine were rusted.

Good luck with the swap and I'll second the Bently manual being not very good. They haynes manual is ok (for the money) but does not cover much in depth.

If you haven't pulled the motor yet one tip I can give you is to leave the entire harness connected to the motor/trans until out of the car (just undo the big plug by the fuse box and remove the relays on the side of the fuse box, the cover attached in the middle of the car and the connectors to the DME). I cut mine of the motor when I did one car and after it was out realize how easy it would have been to remove the thing together.

Oh other thoughts. Leave the hood on just put in the full vertical position (may have to remove one screw that locks it out of this on the linkage if no one else has and not put it back). Also removing the bumper and nose panel make access much easier and does not take all that long.

Thaniel

[CroDriver]

The aluminum adapter plate isn't finished yet



This components are the hardest part of a conversion. At least they where the biggest issue for me

[CrunchTime]

Thanks for the help, guys - makes me feel a bit better. I've come to this knowing that I know nothing about cars, so any advice is useful

Originally Posted by jackbauer

I'm doing a '96 bmw 316 myself and i can say both the bently and haynes manuals are rubbish.

May be, but to someone with no prior experience, anything is better than nothing

Firstly , pull the engine and gearbox as one unit. ... i removed the plugs and filled the cylinders with oil...

As you say - not an option. Although I did find a website where they were talking about preserving unused engines in a barrel of oil, so I guess it's not necessarily all bad...

Fuel tank removal is real fun.

Judging by your description, I don't think "fun" means what you think it means I'm expecting a lot of "fun" during this project...

Not sure how much of this will apply to yourself but hope it helps. I have a few vids on youtube may be a help.

Got a link? I had a quick look but couldn't find you...

Originally Posted by CroDriver

A BMW 3-series is a great donor!

I hope so...

I'm converting a E30

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ad.php?t=28287

I've been watching - yours is a bit out of my league, though

If you'll use a Kostov, I can make you all the motor-to-gearbox adapter parts you need

I'm using an Advanced DC FB1-4001A, so I guess that won't work...

Originally Posted by Thaniel

Not sure about all the trouble described in removing the tank. Mine came out very easy. But then again none of the bolts on mine were rusted.

The car is in pretty good nick(for 335,000 km), so I'm hopeful that there won't be any rusty bolts (or body etc). Haven't found any yet...

...leave the entire harness connected to the motor/trans...

...Leave the hood on just put in the full vertical position...

Also removing the bumper and nose panel make access much easier and does not take all that long.

All useful tips - in fact, tonight after work I removed the front bumper

I decided to leave the radiator for a bit - I need to do some easy jobs first to build up some confidence (and yes, I know it's not hard for you guys with your workshops and toolkits, but remember all my tools are bright and shiny! And Oh! for a double garage. Or even a single garage that I could get the car into...).

The grill/front panel is next - little baby steps for me. Hopefully the weekend will be fine...

(pictures later...) (not that a missing front bumper is very exciting for anyone except me, and maybe the guys at work with a sweepstake on when/if I finish this )

[jackbauer]

http://www.youtube.com/user/pooey1911
happy viewing

[Woodsmith]

Originally Posted by CrunchTime

All useful tips - in fact, tonight after work I removed the front bumper

I decided to leave the radiator for a bit - I need to do some easy jobs first to build up some confidence (and yes, I know it's not hard for you guys with your workshops and toolkits, but remember all my tools are bright and shiny! And Oh! for a double garage. Or even a single garage that I could get the car into...).

The grill/front panel is next - little baby steps for me. Hopefully the weekend will be fine...

We don't all have huge garages and workshops. I'm doing mine on an open air rubble driveway with tools and skills I haven't used in anger for nearly 2 decades.
It is amazing what is possible when you stop caring what the neighbours think of the developing 'junk yard' on their doorstep!

[CrunchTime]

Originally Posted by jackbauer

http://www.youtube.com/user/pooey1911
happy viewing

Thanks (having trouble with my connection - I'll try later )

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

We don't all have huge garages and workshops. I'm doing mine on an open air rubble driveway with tools and skills I haven't used in anger for nearly 2 decades.
It is amazing what is possible when you stop caring what the neighbours think of the developing 'junk yard' on their doorstep!

Hmmm - at least mine's not rubble, but concrete

And at least you had the skills 20 years ago - I've never had them

Speaking of tools - do I actually need any of the special BMW tools I keep reading about (or is there always an alternative)? The one that concerns me most (so far) is the one for removing the fuel line connector, when I get to it...

Got the front grill and panel off, and finally bit the bullet and wiggled under the car far enough to find what I think is the engine block coolant drain plug. (By leaving the radiator cap on until I was back out from underneath, I managed to (mostly) avoid the toxic shower I read about - it slowed the flow down to a trickle) I'm not convinced it's all out, since it's nowhere near the 10 liters I apparently should have had (more like 6)...

[Woodsmith]

Originally Posted by CrunchTime

Hmmm - at least mine's not rubble, but concrete

And at least you had the skills 20 years ago - I've never had them

Ahh but 20 years ago it didn't hurt so much crawling under the car in the cold and wet.

Basic mechanics isn't overly complex but it is worth reading the manual and following the steps through. For potentially dangerous parts of the job, make sure a friend is around to help out. Lifting the engine out is definately an occasion when a second pair of hands and eyes helps.

As for special tools, sometimes a little inginuity helps when you can see what sort of tool is required. If the job is only to dismantle one part that you are not keeping then it isn't worth the purchase of a tool.
For the fuel line in particular you could just cut it off unless it has great resale value.