[evlowrider]

Hi,

Not sure if this is the best place to ask but I know Tesseract and Qer frequent these forums and my question is for them.

I am a fair ways off installing my Soliton1 into my car, but I was wondering if it is OK to hook up a 12V car battery to the Soliton1 so that I can connect to it with the web page console. No motor or pot box would be connected.

The reason I want to do this is to take a look at the configuration stuff and get an idea of what it might take to integrate it with my in car computer/dash that I am planning.

The sort of thing I am thinking about is having a sport/economy setting for example on my dash and to be able to switch between those modes by making the necessary calls to change the controller settings (on the fly even?).

Cheers,
Pete.

[Tesseract]

Originally Posted by evlowrider

Not sure if this is the best place to ask but I know Tesseract and Qer frequent these forums and my question is for them.

Well, I don't have a problem with it, but I'm not sure it's appropriate to use this website for such. Maybe start a poll asking if people mind if there is a thread for technical support on a specific controller?

Originally Posted by evlowrider

I am a fair ways off installing my Soliton1 into my car, but I was wondering if it is OK to hook up a 12V car battery to the Soliton1 so that I can connect to it with the web page console. No motor or pot box would be connected.

Sure - it's perfectly fine, and often a lot more convenient, to power the Soliton1 from a wall wart or 12V battery to set everything up in the first place. Make sure the wall wart is rated for at least 1A and between 12 and 14VDC (regulated is preferred). This is how I test them immediately after assembly but before connecting them up to the dyno.

Originally Posted by evlowrider

The sort of thing I am thinking about is having a sport/economy setting for example on my dash and to be able to switch between those modes by making the necessary calls to change the controller settings (on the fly even?).

This is an incredibly popular request but we haven't quite decided on the best way to implement it (without cluttering up the web interface page). We would really like to work with someone (hint, hint) to take the performance data the controller continuously streams to the ethernet port and turn it into pretty graphs and stuff for display in the car. We would like to make that whole spec open source and are willing to modify the data stream format as needed to facilitate such. Oops.. look at me, volunteering Qer (aka SPD - Swedish Programmer Dude; aka Martin) for even more work...

[evlowrider]

Thanks for the reply. I have a 13.8V regulated power supply so I'll use that thanks.

Cheers,
Pete.

[JRP3]

Originally Posted by Tesseract

Well, I don't have a problem with it, but I'm not sure it's appropriate to use this website for such. Maybe start a poll asking if people mind if there is a thread for technical support on a specific controller?

More information is always good, I don't see any problem with sharing. I wish we had more product manufacturers discussing their product on this site.

[azdeltawye]

I just got my new Soliton 1 controller!

Can't wait to put it to the test...

[glaurung]

Hi all!
I am still waiting for my soliton1 to come from Kostov with my motor. I am still trying to figure out my battery pack. I have a big motor and would like to use as high voltage as possible. Question is: How many 3.2 TS LiPoFe´s can i use? (If i can afford ) Number if i use 12v LiFePo´s? (nominal voltage 12V, maximal voltage 17V, minimal voltage 10V).
I have old Range Rover to convert so i need everything i can get.
I´ll start a build thread when motor arrives.
Thanks you all, Great forum!

[CroDriver]

Originally Posted by glaurung

Hi all!
I am still waiting for my soliton1 to come from Kostov with my motor. I am still trying to figure out my battery pack. I have a big motor and would like to use as high voltage as possible. Question is: How many 3.2 TS LiPoFe´s can i use? (If i can afford ) Number if i use 12v LiFePo´s? (nominal voltage 12V, maximal voltage 17V, minimal voltage 10V).
I have old Range Rover to convert so i need everything i can get.
I´ll start a build thread when motor arrives.
Thanks you all, Great forum!

Hi Glaurung.

The manual says 342V max and 300V for maximum current.

I think 90 LiFePO4 cells (288V nominal) are the optimal pack for the Soliton. If you charge them to 3,6V/cell (324V - battery pack), you'll still be able to drive the car although the cells didn't "settle" (LiFePO4 cells tend to reduce the voltage after a few hours - they come down to 3,3-3,4V after 5-6 hours)

What 12V LiFePO4 battery are you talking about? This can only be LiFeBatt or some e-bike battery pack. That are also just 4 LiFePO4 cells in series.

The e-bike packs are not the best choice for an EV and LiFeBatt packs are very expensive. Take a look at ThunderSky cells. I and many others have them in our cars. They are the best buy on the market if you build a "normal" car. A race car or dragster needs better (MUCH more expensive) batteries.

Hope it helps

Mate Rimac,
Croatia

[glaurung]

Thanks for your input Crodriver!
I have been watching your build very closely.
There is a Thunder Sky seller in Prague who has factory 12v batteries for all applications.And usual sizes too.They have used those in replacing VW Golf factory ev Varta batteries with good results. I dare not to put link here but pm if interested.
I was also supriced to see those batteries.If they are ok, wiring and many other things would be a lot simpler.
Plamen gave me your e-mail, but since i have not started building yet, i have not introduced myself to you(until now).
Thanks, Harri

[CroDriver]

Originally Posted by glaurung

Thanks for your input Crodriver!
I have been watching your build very closely.
There is a Thunder Sky seller in Prague who has factory 12v batteries for all applications.And usual sizes too.They have used those in replacing VW Golf factory ev Varta batteries with good results. I dare not to put link here but pm if interested.
I was also supriced to see those batteries.If they are ok, wiring and many other things would be a lot simpler.
Plamen gave me your e-mail, but since i have not started building yet, i have not introduced myself to you(until now).
Thanks, Harri

If you purchase "unknown"/untested EV components you're risking a lot. A lot of companies are claiming specs they can't meet. Do you know if the 12V LiFePO4 has a integrated BMS?

If yes, how will it handle 300+V running trough it? The MOSFETs of the BMS must be oversized for that.

If not, how will you install a BMS in it? Don't believe the seller if he says you that the battery doesn't need a BMS They do need it in the long term, especially if you can't check manually every cell voltage (if they are in a closed box) or don't want to bother with it.

I'm glad that Plamen gave you my mail. Are you building the components inside a BMW 7 series? He told me something about that a few months ago.

[glaurung]

Hi
I changed donor to Rangie.Easier First Build in my mind.
I will take 12v battries to another thread tomorrow, let´s see what comes out when issue is opened.
Thanks, Harri