Well, I decided I wasn't happy with the shape of the hood after I took it out of the jig. The centre line is fine but the repair on the broken joint the other day just didn't quite hang right. So I sawed it off and started again on that one. It was a bit fiddly but eventually I got the angle where I wanted it and it is now cramped up and gluing. I will have another look at it tonight and then start planing it tomorrow.
In the meantime I programmed the Cycle Analyst.
So easy, even with only one button instead of the two buttons in the instructions. The instructions say to power up while pressing the button to bring up the set up screen. This was fine and easy to do.
I scrolled through all the basic set up screens to see what was avaialble while reading the manual.
The basic process is to press the button for each screen. When the screen is found pres sand hold the button until 'OK' shows and then the screen can be set up. Press and hold the button to save the setting.
The first screen was the miles/km. Press and hold, toggle between the two and then press and hold. It is simple so long as your hands don't shake and you end up toggling back to km and saving when you wanted to save the miles!
The wheel diameter was a bit more fiddly as I had to determine the circumference of the front tyre in mm.
I jacked up a front wheel and then lowered it onto a tape measure. I then wrapped the tape measure around the tyre and read the numbers at the overlap.
To set the diameter I toggled to the wheel diameter screen, press and hold, then the first of the preset numbers were highlighted. I pressed to toggle through the numbers until the one I wanted showed. Then press and hold the button to save. The next number is highlighted and the process is repeated.
The rest of the settings were left as they were acceptable but I wanted to zero the ammeter reading, which had been hovering around the 0.5A mark.
I toggled the set up screens until I got to 'Advanced' and then press and hold to select.
I toggled through to the Shunt screen and selected. I left the shunt settings alone as I assume they are the correct factory settings.
At the end of the shunt settings was a 'Reset Zero' screen. Press and hold the button and the shunt is reset to read zero.
Scroll to the end of the set up menus and back to the standard running display.
I then tape wrapped the sections of the wiring loom that were now loose and refitted the tunnel covers. I will make better ones in due course but they work, as templates, for the time being.