[ev_nred]

Originally Posted by RIPPERTON

This project is flying together faster than some other simpler projects Ive had. Even money is coming along, I should be testing this in July.

Yes of course the ME0913 is the only motor by far that will suit this bike.
Your only a noob in so much as you havent seen the true potential of this motor even though Ive already pointed out that the cooling system is inadequate for it. I wouldnt be surprised if the fan was the same part of the 3001.
As long as this motor gets massive air it will handle what Im throwing at it.
Youve probly already figured out what controller Im using and yes it does have the potential to turn my whole workshop into a black hole if the motor is not cooled properly.
You are also still in the habit of thinking the motor is where the power comes from.
Wrong The power comes from the battery / controller
The motor is the transmission, Ive already explained this. It will turn 15% of whatever it gets into heat and spit the other 85% out at the drive wheel. All I have to do is remove that heat out of the windings and make sure the windings arnt arcing or cross firing under full voltage.

Im a Mechanical Designer NOT an engineer.
An engineer reads the spec sheet and pushes the buttons on his calculator and thats it.
A designer doesnt do math. He first evaluates the design and sees where it needs to be improved and then improves the design.
Everything has to be modified.

will if you mod it then it will probobly do the job your the Mechanical Designer

[RIPPERTON]

In goes the controller. Had to completely redesign the subframe around the controller. The tray in 2mm alloy might act as a heatsink and the other 3 sides will get ducted air.

[RIPPERTON]

[RIPPERTON]

$2500 120v 1000A with separate capacitor box.

[JRP3]

Nice work on the bracket. What's with the separate capacitor box, are those the capacitors for the controller in a separate box or are they extra capacitors?

[RIPPERTON]

Originally Posted by JRP3

Nice work on the bracket. What's with the separate capacitor box, are those the capacitors for the controller in a separate box or are they extra capacitors?

That comes with the controller. Its good for motorcycles cause if they were inside the main box it would have been too big to put anywhere. this way its easier to fit.

[RIPPERTON]

been doing some of the low voltage work.
Using the harnesses supplied by Kelly was half the work already done.
I have a handlebar mounted precharge switch, reverse and boost button.
The boost function supplies full 1000 amps regardless of throttle position ??? not sure how effective this will be on track but wired it up anyway, likewise the reverse function...why ??? because its there.
I have a cheapo 200v voltmeter to let me know if the battery voltage is low enough to engage to controller. Over 136v and the controller goes into fault mode.







The cap box assembly is going in under here on another sheet aly tray.

[Dalardan]

I do suppose your Electric Race Bike will be used for a racing purpose. Then, why use a needle amp meter? The high G-forces implied in racing will make your reading impossible. Simply try to shake your meter and see if the needle is moving...

In my humble opinion, get a digital meter.

Dalardan

[RIPPERTON]

Originally Posted by Dalardan

I do suppose your Electric Race Bike will be used for a racing purpose. Then, why use a needle amp meter? The high G-forces implied in racing will make your reading impossible. Simply try to shake your meter and see if the needle is moving...

In my humble opinion, get a digital meter.

Dalardan

Yeah I wish
The Ammeter Im using is a Kelly one which taps straight into the controller ie no shunt. It reads out in percentage not amps.
Il test it first, if it wobbles Il try something else.

[frodus]

Why put a toggle switch on the precharge resistor? Its ALWAYS supposed to be connected. If you insist on doing that, you need to have a "toggle" that will work with Pack voltage. most are rated at 12VDC, 120VAC. 120VDC will NOT work on a 120VAC rated switch, it will arc.

I don't know why people think they need the precharge on a switch. Once the caps are charged inside the kelly, there is no current flow. You could keep that bike sitting there for months and the precharge will not discharge the pack. Just wire it across and be done, its not neccessary to switch the precharge.