[Georgia Tech]

If you use a Sep ex motor, frorm what I have learned, MAKE SURE it has Interpoles!!!!

[ewdysar]

Originally Posted by DavidDymaxion

I'm not aware of any current sepex controller that goes higher than the Kelly 120 V. I think the max Curtis one is 96 V.

If you want an off-the-shelf sepex solution, it looks like you have to either go lower power, or go multiple motors (might as well go AC in that case).

That's one of the reasons I'm doing my own controller!

Ok, so what sepex motor are your running?

Eric

[Georgia Tech]

Originally Posted by ewdysar

Ok, so what sepex motor are your running?

Eric

I am not running ANY motor at the moment... I have a BIG sep Ex motor just sitting in my Garage.

I have read some SERIOUS debates and posts on here on the importance of interpoles for High voltage Sep Ex systems... It seems the consincous is that a Sep Ex system with out interpoles can be run at about 72 volts max...

[ewdysar]

Originally Posted by Georgia Tech

I am not running ANY motor at the moment... I have a BIG sep Ex motor just sitting in my Garage.

I have read some SERIOUS debates and posts on here on the importance of interpoles for High voltage Sep Ex systems... It seems the consincous is that a Sep Ex system with out interpoles can be run at about 72 volts max...

What kind of "BIG sep Ex motor"? Like I said ealier, the only Sep Ex motor specs that I've seen rated to 144V is the Kostov 268mm. I'm just trying to figure out what options actually exist...

Eric

[DavidDymaxion]

I have an old Kostov 11 inch sepex. It does have interpoles. I have only run it gently so far, but by the end of the summer I should have some higher voltage and current results to report.

Originally Posted by ewdysar

Ok, so what sepex motor are your running?

Eric

[Tesseract]

The Kostov SepEx motor looks to be an excellent size even for relatively heavy conversions. Too bad making a SepEx controller that can work with a variety of motors is such a P.I.T.A. ...

As for a really "Big" SepEx motor... how about this 13" GE monster which is going to be added to our dyno real soon:

[ewdysar]

Originally Posted by Tesseract

The Kostov SepEx motor looks to be an excellent size even for relatively heavy conversions. Too bad making a SepEx controller that can work with a variety of motors is such a P.I.T.A. ...

As for a really "Big" SepEx motor... how about this 13" GE monster which is going to be added to our dyno real soon:

Cool, though I might have to beef up the suspension in the Metro...

Eric

[Georgia Tech]

Originally Posted by ewdysar

What kind of "BIG sep Ex motor"? Like I said ealier, the only Sep Ex motor specs that I've seen rated to 144V is the Kostov 268mm. I'm just trying to figure out what options actually exist...

Eric

It's one that I bought from a guy on this forum 10" motor ...I just don't have time to fool with it...It has an inverted spline shaft that I don't know what to do with. I have an 11 inch series, just out of the machine shop and a monster 13 inch like Tesseract's 13 inch except mine is the series version, his is the sepex version..

I sure wish I could figure a way to retro fit Interpoles in one of these things.....

So a decent little sepex with interpoles and a medium weight vehicle and a kelly sepex 120 volt controller and you have a system. What's so bad about that? Sure it's not a super high voltage system but what is interesting is that if you ask Kelly Controller your needs I am sure they can build you one for higher voltage. Did you ask them? They are actually very willing to work with you. I have a software modified SepEx controller we are now going to be able to test. I am sure they will build a 144 or 156 volt controller that will power a SepEx but if you go that high of voltage you risk flashover. Advance it and you loose regen ability to the point you may damage the com even with sepex. So a nice small car like a VW should do just fine with 120 volts and regen with a decent sized 9" GE SepEx motor. You can change parameters to your controller to custom configure the software to work better with your motor. It is still possible. You can control the amount of regen too. 0 to full on. I will let you all know about our testing. Got the pan and going to mount the motor and do some tests.

[david85]

Originally Posted by ewdysar

I live in the foothills of SoCal and I notice that while I drive any of my ICE vehicles, auto or stick, I use downshifting to control my speed. I do this for traffic or hills. Since I am seriously considering a DC electric conversion, I would like some resistance from the drivetrain when operating under zero throttle. I would use the transmission to select the amount of drag, lower gears for more deceleration, just the same as the ICE vehicles. My intended pack voltage will probably be 156V (48 lithium cells). I know that a controller will be needed to prevent overcharging, the max regen (charging) voltage should be no higher than 168V - 170V.

Since I typically care about efficiency, I don't want to just drag the brakes all the way downhill or approaching a traffic signal (I don't do that today in my Suburban, Fit, Insight or 914-V8). So for the sake of driveability, how can I get the conversion to feel more like a regular car? I'm not impressed with the AC systems that are available today, none seem to match the power of a WarP9 for a similar weight.

I've spent a day reading way too many threads that barely touch on the subject (please don't mention perpetual motion) and the only practical advice that I mined from all that has been the guy with the S-10 that rewound his own alternator. I was hoping that I could buy most of the components necessary to build a similar finished product. I'm not looking for a kit, just some sources for the major components. I'm also open to alternative strategies. Anybody else headed down this path before?

Thanks,
Eric

Just a suggestion, but have you considered dropping your system low enough to run a sepex or AC motor like JRP3? His Fiero has fully functioning regen setup and seems to have enough pow - well, I'll let him tell you how it runs

I do agree however that under some conditions, not having any engine brakes can be hazardous.