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  #1  
Old 12-29-2014, 11:36 PM
jwiger jwiger is offline
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Default 1985 Mustang Coupe

Greetings everyone! My name is James, I'm in the Air Force, originally from NW Oregon and currently in TX.

I work on all kinds of vehicles, new and old, large and small. It is just a hobby up to this point. In my circle of friends I am known as the "car guy". Recently I have been helping buddies work on their projects in my garage. I recently bought an '85 Mustang from CL in the hopes of building it into an SVO inspired hotrod, and powering it with a turbocharged 2.3L.

I had a change of heart and want to go full EV with the car, but still with a sporty side. I'm getting some good suspension and brakes parts for the car. I'm even trying a multiplexer based body wiring system from Infinitybox.

For motivation I plan on a Warp9 and 60 or so 100Ahr CALB batteries. This will be a commuting car with a fun side. If you folks don't mind I would like to share the build up here. I'm currently waiting on a batch of parts, so there is nothing to show yet, currently the car is sitting in the garage with the old blown V6 pulled out. Here's a few pics.

Latest plan (current as of Feb 2, '16):
Maximum Motor Sports suspension - Installed
Manual rack and pinion steering - Installed
Manual (four wheel disc) brakes - Installing....
Infinity Box wiring system - Installing....
ZEVA EVMS (BMS) w/ custom color scheme - Installing...
Single Warp9 motor - need to buy
Zilla 2K EHV controller - need to buy
44 Leaf battery modules (330v) - need to buy
Five speed transmission - need to buy
Intellitronix LED gauges - Installed
Charger - Undecided
DC/DC converter - Undecided

Future plans:
Second motor, possibly a UQM
Additional high C rated batteries in parallel
High Voltage drive A/C system
Decent sound system

I will be back to work on this car in April
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN2155.jpg (1.81 MB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2159.jpg (1.61 MB, 25 views)
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James Wiger
'85 Mustang Coupe, converting to full electric
'13 C-MAX Energi PHEV
'05 PSD, Silver, SCLW, Torqshift, 4x4
'65 New Yorker, white, 4dr.ht., 400k original miles

Last edited by jwiger; 02-01-2016 at 07:16 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-01-2015, 01:33 AM
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madderscience madderscience is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

looks like the start of a great sleeper project.

Keep in mind you can get a lot of benefit out of the little details in a conversion, in addition to just putting in a big motor, battery, and controller. Owing to where the efficiency losses are in an EV vs. ICE, chassis and drivetrain tweaks have a 4x bigger effect on an EV than they do on an ICE.

The right tires, synthetic oils, optimizing the drive train, making sure the brakes don't drag, and such can add another 10-20% to your EV range depending on where you are starting from. You can have some good narrow wheels with LRR tires for daily commuting and some wide DOT slicks for those days when you are feeling punchy.

Don't know how the 80s mustangs are for weight and aero, but they probably aren't optimal there but you can still do things like lowering the car, adding an air dam or belly pan and such to help a bit. I imagine as is the case with many popular detroit vehicles it is possible to put it on quite a diet with aftermarket body panels, seats, and other interior stuff as well. Given the size of the mustang community there must be good options out there.

Welcome and good luck.
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Last edited by madderscience; 01-01-2015 at 01:39 AM.
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  #3  
Old 01-02-2015, 12:06 AM
jwiger jwiger is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

Thank you!

Yes, I plan on minimizing friction as much as possible. I'm looking for a minimum range of 25 miles, for daily commuting, which is basically work and back (80% of my driving) I'm going with some moderate sport tires: BFGoodrich Sport COMP-2 in 245/45R17 on 2005 Mustang wheels. I have a heavy foot, and don't want surprises.

All of the V8 powered Mustangs from this generation were very nose heavy, I'm hoping to get closer to a 51/49 weight distribution. You are right, the aftermarket for this car is massive. Some fiberglass panels will be in the future once I have the car rolling, I have been thinking about ground effect work, but I'm not sure if the extra weight will be worth it. My average speed commuting is 25 MPH and might exceed 50 mph for one forth of the trip. I am replacing some of the heavy stamped steel front suspension bits with lighter/stronger tubular bits, that should help. Besides the heavy cast iron engines, these cars are pretty light, on par with a Celica or BMW of similar size.
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James Wiger
'85 Mustang Coupe, converting to full electric
'13 C-MAX Energi PHEV
'05 PSD, Silver, SCLW, Torqshift, 4x4
'65 New Yorker, white, 4dr.ht., 400k original miles
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Old 01-02-2015, 10:39 AM
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dougingraham dougingraham is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwiger View Post
Yes, I plan on minimizing friction as much as possible. I'm looking for a minimum range of 25 miles, for daily commuting, which is basically work and back (80% of my driving)

<snip>

I have been thinking about ground effect work, but I'm not sure if the extra weight will be worth it. My average speed commuting is 25 MPH and might exceed 50 mph for one forth of the trip.
With your driving pattern you will gain nothing measurable from ground effect work. I estimate you will want a minimum pack size of 16kwh if the pack is to last. This means a salvage Volt pack would be enough from a kwh standpoint. You would have a drop dead range of 45 miles which means that even 8 years in you should still be able to do your 25 miles easily. Your proposed pack of 60 CALB 100AH cells should give you a drop dead range of around 55 miles. Another way to do this would be going to higher voltage and smaller capacity cells. I have 52 100AH cells (166 volts) and if I were doing it over today I would do 96 60AH cells (307 volts). This would have the advantage of being able to run the motor voltage up to 190 volts which widens the usable torque band on the motor. Battery sag becomes irrelevant. With your plan of 60 cells a 15% sag would give you a motor voltage of 163 volts which will lower the point where you see maximum torque. It also would lower the battery current. With your 100AH cells a 10C burst is 1000 amps which is comfortable for your motor. With 60AH cells a 10C burst is 600 amps but since your voltage with 96 cells would be 307 and the motor controller will reduce this to whatever you tell it you get a current amplification. Lets say you fix the motor voltage to 172 which is what Netgain suggests. 307/172=a current amplification of 1.78. So if the motor is pulling 1000 amps the batteries will see only 562 amps. I see 266 ft-lbs on the dyno at 1000 amps with a Warp 9. Power input to the motor at 172 volts and 1000 amps is 172kw which is 231 HP. At the wheels you might see 90% of that or 208 HP. Without exceeding a 10C rate on the batteries you could run to 184 volts on the motor at 1000 amps giving 184kw (247 HP) input and a potential wheel HP of 222. Soliton 1 or Zilla HV required for this though. Torque band will extend from zero to almost 5000 rpm.

Higher voltage has other advantages in that you don't need as heavy of cable between the batteries and the motor controller. 1/0 is more than enough for that. Since the loop between controller and motor is still seeing 1000 amps you should run 2/0 there. The downside is more interconnects in the battery pack and a little more difficulty with things like DC-DC converters.

I look forward to watching your build.
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1985 Mazda RX-7 GSL (9800+ EV miles)
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  #5  
Old 01-02-2015, 11:36 PM
jwiger jwiger is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

I figured it couldn't hurt to over budget the battery pack a bit, Central Texas gets pretty cold, the wife's C MAX PHEV normally gets 24 EV miles in warm weather and it only gets 11-12 right now in the cold.

You pretty much nailed the numbers I'm hunting for in this First Build. I like to go fast, and will try this car at the drag strip a little. I don't expect amazing numbers at the strip, but I hope to learn how to setup and launch the car with this combo, while not blowing up any expensive parts. I will be using a Soliton 1, and investing in cables and suspension bits that leave me a good motor/battery/transmission upgrade path in the future.

In fact I will be converting the junk factory four-link suspension to a heavy duty torque arm from maximummotorsports.com. Hopefully it can handle full amp launches with no problems.
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James Wiger
'85 Mustang Coupe, converting to full electric
'13 C-MAX Energi PHEV
'05 PSD, Silver, SCLW, Torqshift, 4x4
'65 New Yorker, white, 4dr.ht., 400k original miles
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2015, 08:39 PM
Vhclbldr Vhclbldr is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

James, have you considered using dual Warp 9's?
Just my own two cents, but it would give you a bit more punch (but suck up more juice).

Doug, would the 60AH 96-cell system you suggested still work (would the motor voltages need to be set for less than 150 each)?

Downside is the added weight/system complexity.
Upside is potential for massive power/torque..
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Last edited by Vhclbldr; 01-17-2015 at 06:16 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2015, 10:23 PM
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dougingraham dougingraham is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

With dual warp 9's you would need more battery to take advantage of them. If you want to push them to 1000 amps and 170 volts each you need enough battery to provide that amount of power. This is 170kw each or 340kw total. A 96 cell pack of 60 ah cells at 10C could provide 184kw (briefly). And at a 3C rate could provide 55kw continuous. You would want two controllers and at least 120 ah at 96 cells to feed them. A budget version would be a single controller with the motors in series and 96 100 AH cells operating at 10C. This would be able to do close to 300kw briefly.

The motor voltage would be self limiting because it would be 1/2 whatever the batteries sagged down to. 96 cells gives 307 volts nominal and with 100AH CALB CA's would probably sag down to 261 making the motor voltage 130 each.
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  #8  
Old 01-04-2015, 10:32 PM
jwiger jwiger is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

If the car is successful in commuting, there will be upgrades in the future. limiting myself with a single warp9 is my EV training wheels... I am sure I will not break the chassis or axle with that motor.
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James Wiger
'85 Mustang Coupe, converting to full electric
'13 C-MAX Energi PHEV
'05 PSD, Silver, SCLW, Torqshift, 4x4
'65 New Yorker, white, 4dr.ht., 400k original miles
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2015, 11:46 PM
jwiger jwiger is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

I got my suspension kit in the mail last week and have unpacked it. The only real work I have begun is refurbishing a pedal box with a clutch pedal to replace the current automatic transmission pedal box. I will be converting the car from vacuum assisted disc/drum setup to a manual disk/disk setup using rotors and calipers of the same spec as 94-04 Mustang Cobras, this paired with a 1 inch bore master cylinder and revised geometry brake pedal lever should give me nice sporty brakes, with no need for vacuum.

I will be taking next week off, and after completing some Honey-do items I should make some real progress on my car.

Gratuitous stack-of-boxes pic, and before/nearly complete, after pics of pedal box:
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File Type: jpg pedalbox1.jpg (114.8 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg pedalbox2.jpg (130.2 KB, 11 views)
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James Wiger
'85 Mustang Coupe, converting to full electric
'13 C-MAX Energi PHEV
'05 PSD, Silver, SCLW, Torqshift, 4x4
'65 New Yorker, white, 4dr.ht., 400k original miles
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  #10  
Old 01-16-2015, 08:32 PM
Vhclbldr Vhclbldr is offline
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Default Re: 1985 Mustang Coupe

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwiger View Post
If the car is successful in commuting, there will be upgrades in the future. limiting myself with a single warp9 is my EV training wheels... I am sure I will not break the chassis or axle with that motor.
You make a good point, but I figured I might as well plan on designing for both motors from the get go so that all mounts, brackets (including battery racks) and wiring/controllers don't have to be reworked later on.

Based upon Doug's feedback, a 96-100 pack of 100AH cells would be enough for both the range and performance requirements we both are looking for.

And the second warp 9 only adds about $2000 to the build costs...
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