[dladd]

Originally Posted by JRP3

I didn't even know Synkromotive was still selling controllers.

i get the impression the DIY market is something they tolerate as opposed to market to... their main focus these days appears to be the development of a charger/bms and a DC/DC convertor, but they are definitely still selling the controller. It's a solid mature design that is (i believe) not going to see any further development.

[frodus]

Originally Posted by JRP3

Fair enough, but none of those other than NetGain are commonly used controllers for DIY EV's. I didn't even know Synkromotive was still selling controllers.

More common than you think.... but Sevcon is used quite a bit in small cars, golf carts, NEV's, Motorcycles, scooters. Rinehart is used in race vehicles and OEM vehicles. Brusa is used in conversions, hybrids and OEM vehicles. PG Drives have been used in OEM motorcycles, OEM ATV's.

And yeah, Synkro isn't really marketing to DIY, they're working with other companies at this point and it's not just controllers. I'm working on a vehicle now with a Synkromotive controller in it (Mini Cooper).

For reference (I realize this isn't all conversions, but it's a starting point)
http://www.evalbum.com/cntrl
Synkromotive: 8
Netgain: 12
Sevcon: 46
PG Drives: 7
Brusa: 20

Synkro has almost as many out there as Netgain, and you said netgain is a commonly used controller. Sevcon is used as much as all of those combined and is in the top 10 (if you don't count bicycle controllers like Crystalite, Yi Yun etc). Sevcon is currently used about as much as Evnetics and Siemens.

[major]

Originally Posted by frodus

More common than you think........

Man, you guys really drag off topic. Can anybody shed light on my question about motor voltage limit?

And another one. What is the continuous current rating for the Curtis 1238?

Any help here is appreciated.

major

[frodus]

Which 1238? The 6601, 7501 and 7601 don't have any thing other than 2 min ratings in the manual I've got. Continuous for the 6501 is 155A. There's nothing in the manual about changing motor voltage, but why not just use a 24V controller to begin with?

Email me and I can send you the latest manual I've got, but it doesn't have the 7601 in it. I'll try and get it.

[major]

Originally Posted by frodus

Which 1238? The 6601, 7501 and 7601 don't have any thing other than 2 min ratings in the manual I've got. Continuous for the 6501 is 155A. There's nothing in the manual about changing motor voltage, but why not just use a 24V controller to begin with?

Thanks Trav,

I have the 6501. I have a 48V battery. I just need to limit motor voltage for some strange reason I can't get into here. Where did you get the 155A continuous? Actually sounds about right from what I see in testing without further heatsinking.

I know the 2 minute ratings from the sales info.

Regards,

major

[frodus]

155A continuous from the manuals I've got.

I've got questions in with my contacts at curtis.

[mizlplix]

Just to add to this thread:

Yes, the "internet" down loaded software works on the 1238-7601 controller.

Yes, you can make your own Dongle. Get a DB9 extender cable. Cut off one end. direct solder them to the wiring going to the Spyglass. (TX to RX, RX to TX, GRD to GRD, do NOT connect the power wires).

I do not use USB, others do. It complicates the situation. I use an OLD lap top with a serial port and XP.
EDIT: I started using a USB. You open the software, select options, set the port to COM 2 (com 1 is always some system device). With software running and USB converter plugged in: go into Device Driver and select the PORT where the dongle/converter shows- set it to be COM 2. exit. reboot computer. it will work then...

DO Not use a battery charger at the same time as a computer is plugged in, there is no isolation in this set up.

OR rent from FRODUS- http://www.emf-power.com/

[licc]

Hi.
I have used Curtis 1238-6501. There is a problem in its programming. Programming Station 1314-4401 normal programs Curtis 1238-7601, but when programming Curtis 1238-6501, I can not change some of the values​​.
1. Can not add rpm to the torque mode (3450 is, I need 6000).
2. I can not change the pole motor (motor type 0. 4 is, I need 6)
3. Do not Run "motor haracterization Procedure" (controller have a stupor)
Other parameters of the controller can be changed.
where is my mistake?

[gaminde]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

Just to add to this thread:

Yes, the "internet" down loaded software works on the 1238-7601 controller.

Yes, you can make your own Dongle. Get a DB9 extender cable. Cut off one end. direct solder them to the wiring going to the Spyglass. (TX to RX, RX to TX, GRD to GRD, do NOT connect the power wires).

I do not use USB, others do. It complicates the situation. I use an OLD lap top with a serial port and XP.
EDIT: I started using a USB. You open the software, select options, set the port to COM 2 (com 1 is always some system device). With software running and USB converter plugged in: go into Device Driver and select the PORT where the dongle/converter shows- set it to be COM 2. exit. reboot computer. it will work then...

DO Not use a battery charger at the same time as a computer is plugged in, there is no isolation in this set up.

OR rent from FRODUS- http://www.emf-power.com/

Here is an adapter I made, yes I know you don't need one but I had a number of controllers that I could not make contact with, now they light up first time every time. I use a usb adapter from staples works great so I have a com1 standard com port and can use any usb port, my usb adapter is set up as com 3. I made 4 boards for myself and have different ends on them for different setups suppose I could make more. They should provide isolation and are powered from the controller pin 4.