[mizlplix]

Thanks Al. Will do. I have seen the one the guy on Evtv has done. While it is nice work, I feel it does not have sufficient passages and could be better.

Im always looking for something better. Miz

[mizlplix]

Greetings all:

Slight progress,

Just working on the battery pack frames...Sheesh!

Miz

[gsmith191145]

Looking awesome

[Woodsmith]

That's looking really good, the front battery frame really shows how low down the motor is.
Any plans for a guard or sheild under the motor to protect it from puddle splashes and stone chips?

[mizlplix]

To be quite honest, I really havent given it any thought.

The motor is fairly well sealed and pressurized when running and the motor intake is going to have a 6" flex hose connected to place the air intake up high under the hood.

I guess the answer is yes. There will ultimately be a shield of some type. The copper cooling tubes will be naked and susceptible to damage.

My goal was to have all the weight as low as possible. I really am not fond of the rear battery pack being up that high. 560lbs. will transfer around quite a bit.

The bright side is that I only need to tolerate this set up for a few years. After I save up for a better storage source, it will be possible to discard the rear mount completely.

Miz

[mizlplix]

Today was fantastic. I got all of the battery mounts welded, ground, painted, and most wood panels installed. Thanks to my son for all of the help.

The wood is the cheapest OSB I could get. But, Each panel has a minimum of two coats of polyurethane varnish before installation. Then is adhesived in place, then calked around the edges. They each will have a 1/2" drain at the lowest point.

When dry, they will have an interior coating of "gripper" rubberized primer for acid resistance.

The rear axle has been stripped and is under going a change of gears.....3.55 to 6.14....gives me 50 in low and 90 in high gear. With wasting no time in acceleration...lol



The battery mounts are all welded or bolted in permanently now.

[mizlplix]

As stated somewhere above, not much happens here during the weekdays. Today was 108 and humid. Not much incentive to get out there and get moving on the car.

But I have been doing research on my low voltage wiring, routing and bundle locations. in these pics it shows some of the ICE wiring leftover. It is going to get a "haircut" and simplified a bunch.

I have built into the car, a dedicated electrical panel. It is a shelf that lays flat under the dashboard, in the middle of the car. Most everything mounts to it and it hinges down for ease of access and repairs.

When the shelf is up and fastened, it is invisible.

Can anyone please explain to me how this little piece of shit can handle up to 400Amps?

(My lame attempt at humor)

[kek_63]

If you use puny cable lugs like that one on the left, you might not even need that fuse.

Later,
Keith

[gsmith191145]

Can anyone please explain to me how this little piece of shit can handle up to 400Amps?

(My lame attempt at humor)[/QUOTE]


Because Andre-Marie Ampere and Thomas Edison SAY SO!

[EVfun]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

Can anyone please explain to me how this little piece of shit can handle up to 400Amps?

(My lame attempt at humor)

You bolt each end of the fuse to a heavy copper lug with a 4/0 cable. Oh, keep everything else at least 12 inches away! (and cross your fingers)