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  #471  
Old 06-24-2012, 07:24 AM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

I'll add that my system came with "mild" settings from the factory, slow throttle ramp and weak regen. Reprogramming provided much better throttle response and stronger A pedal regen, which I wanted. I prefer one pedal driving as much as possible.

Last edited by JRP3; 06-26-2012 at 11:20 AM.
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  #472  
Old 06-26-2012, 09:35 AM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

Quote:
Originally Posted by RET View Post
What kind of range are you getting with your 911 ?
Easily 60 miles around town, 80 miles highway.
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  #473  
Old 06-26-2012, 09:49 AM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

Quote:
Originally Posted by mizlplix View Post

As an aside- When the pack is powered up, the throttle at rest and the key switch is on, The RPM on the spyglass is at 3-5 and going up and down in that range, the motor seems to not be turning. Is this normal? (I might check my foot pedal setting to see if it is adjustable.)

TOO, If I hold the throttle pedal down (in neutral) and then turn the key switch on, the motor will run away. It Happened and is repeatable. I thought there was a feature to prevent this built into the controller.....

Lastly, when driving and at any speed, if I let the throttle off, the car does not really free roll. It feels like it has a slight drag. To my knowledge, I have everything set properly. I need to do two checks, ONE is to get it up to speed and (throttle off) turn the key switch off. ALSO: TUrn off the "Brake" parameter and drive it to compare.

These problems are not really a big deal, more of an observation.

Miz
Hi Miz,

Double check to see if you have any Throttle Request in the Monitor, Input menu. You may need to adjust your deadband if you have a little throttle request, this can cause the motor to run with the pedal released. I like to have .3 volts of deadband. You can also check your max throttle here too. Set Forward Max just under what you see as the Throttle Pot Voltage in the Input Monitor Menu. This will ensure you are getting full throttle.

As it stands, there is no High Pedal disable. You can turn it on though if you like. In the Throttle Menu, set the HDP/SRO to Type 3 and give it a try.

What you are seeing is Neutral Braking. This is your pedal up regen. You can adjust this in the Torque Control Mode, Response menu. Default is around 10%, you can raise or lower as desired.

BFN,
Brian
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  #474  
Old 06-26-2012, 03:40 PM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

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Originally Posted by HPEVS View Post
Easily 60 miles around town, 80 miles highway.
That is great range ! Is there a link to see the build of this car ?

I am going to do a Triumph spitfire ( curb weight 1960 lbs with the ICE ) . I want to run a powerglide trans . I'm wondering what kind of performance I will get out of it with the AC-50 or the newer model you have coming out ? I would like to get some fast acceleration too off the line .
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  #475  
Old 06-26-2012, 03:50 PM
HPEVS HPEVS is offline
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

Quote:
Originally Posted by RET View Post
That is great range ! Is there a link to see the build of this car ?

I am going to do a Triumph spitfire ( curb weight 1960 lbs with the ICE ) . I want to run a powerglide trans . I'm wondering what kind of performance I will get out of it with the AC-50 or the newer model you have coming out ? I would like to get some fast acceleration too off the line .

There are pictures of the build on our website. I wouldn't use an automatic transmission, they eat power for lunch. I would stick with the manual trans in the car. You will have much better ratios for off the line and for highway speeds.
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  #476  
Old 06-26-2012, 04:05 PM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

I think Miz may have a different opinion of automatics
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  #477  
Old 06-26-2012, 04:07 PM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

Anyone in my area has an open invitation to drive my car if you think a direct drive auto transmission eats power.

miz


P.S.: Brian, your HPEV link is dead.
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Last edited by mizlplix; 06-26-2012 at 04:10 PM.
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  #478  
Old 06-26-2012, 04:26 PM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

Quote:
Originally Posted by mizlplix View Post
Anyone in my area has an open invitation to drive my car if you think a direct drive auto transmission eats power.

miz


P.S.: Brian, your HPEV link is dead.
How is your acceleration ? can you swap out gear ratios to dial in a faster
acceleration in a power glide ?

use first to get off the line, then second from there ( two speed shifting ).
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  #479  
Old 06-26-2012, 04:44 PM
HPEVS HPEVS is offline
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

Quote:
Originally Posted by mizlplix View Post
Anyone in my area has an open invitation to drive my car if you think a direct drive auto transmission eats power.

miz


P.S.: Brian, your HPEV link is dead.
Hi Miz,

There is a lot more to the auto than a manual, your watts per mile will be higher with the powerglide. It's an interesting concept I might want to check out someday though. I've often thought about trying an electronic 700R4 and set up the controller to do the shifting, though to get araound the losses in the trans though.

Thanks for the heads up on the link.

What is your current on flat ground at 60 MPH? My Porsche is 90 to 120 amps. It weighs 2675 pounds.

Brian
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  #480  
Old 06-26-2012, 05:48 PM
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Default Re: 1930 Model A Roadster build

I don't know what comparisons you can get between two different vehicles with different weights and more importantly aerodynamics. Dyno test should show up any efficiency losses while eliminating weight and aero differences. Remember Miz is running without the torque converter which should help efficiency.
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