[EV-propulsion.com]

Here is Pete's original display thread for those interested in reading more....
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ad.php?t=46241

mike
www.EV-propulsion.com

[ddmcse]

I'm getting used to the throttle


the controller does a sane EV start when you press down on the throttle
nice and easy sipping juice .
step on it hard and you're gonna get it .
3rd gear, dead stop, serious spin not a wimpy one

[ddmcse]

Originally Posted by EV-propulsion.com

Here is Pete's original display thread for those interested in reading more....
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ad.php?t=46241

mike
www.EV-propulsion.com

ok check this part out if the dials aren't cool enough when you tap on the dial it gives you the digital output say 156.00volts or 40c temp

[ddmcse]

Originally Posted by DIYguy

kewl. What's the tablet worth? Is it a 7" or 8" or?

The 10" is too big I'd say a 5" would be perfect .
5" archos is probably cheap

the Supra is a summer car w/targa top and the screen is close to impossible to see

[LithiumaniacsEVRacing]

Dan,

Listen to Jeff, he builds the Soliton's with Sebastian. He knows what he is talking about.

Nice to see you on this forum. Numidia, PA on the 25th if your ready?

Originally Posted by Tesseract

Well, you're definitely trying hard to recreate the jerky start of your old controller by running with the above two settings! Unless you have a really stout racing clutch (the kind that is practically undriveable in traffic with an ICE) I wouldn't set slew rate faster than 2000A/s. The main reason is that you probably won't notice any difference in throttle response because the clutch will slip more as slew rate is increased, resulting in a lower effective slew rate.

Your half throttle setting of 90% means that motor current will go from 0 to 900A over the first half of the travel while over the second half you'll go from 900-1000A. I personally feel you get better driveability - especially when trying to maneuver around parking lots, etc. - from slightly reducing the half throttle percentage rather than increasing it, but this is clearly a personal preference.

Oh, and I really like that dashboard, too. I suspect many of our customers would feel the same once they find out about it.

[ddmcse]

Finally get some use of the 1000 amp shunt and gauge . I reconnected my shunt gauge and the rest of the paktrakr last night. I had a much better SOC after the drive to work today. Proof of better efficiency of the soliton 1 vs Logisystems ? we'll see after more testing. I did see why the car feels so much more powerful , I'm getting 750 amps on the gauge. versus 600 max (even after fiddling) with the Logisystems . it went right to 750 on the nose twice. there might be more to be had there with an adjustment.

[LithiumaniacsEVRacing]

Originally Posted by ddmcse

Finally get some use of the 1000 amp shunt and gauge . I reconnected my shunt gauge and the rest of the paktrakr last night. I had a much better SOC after the drive to work today. Proof of better efficiency of the soliton 1 vs Logisystems ? we'll see after more testing. I did see why the car feels so much more powerful , I'm getting 750 amps on the gauge. versus 600 max (even after fiddling) with the Logisystems . it went right to 750 on the nose twice. there might be more to be had there with an adjustment.

Let her rip! I want to see you cranking 120mph down route 17! LOL

[Qer]

Originally Posted by ddmcse

I reconnected my shunt gauge...

You do know that you can connect a meter directly to the Soliton? Right?

[ddmcse]

Originally Posted by Qer

You do know that you can connect a meter directly to the Soliton? Right?

yes I do . This was an existing shunt already in place . The Android app displays Amps too , The gauge is in the pillar pod .

I spent 1/2 hr disabled today . I figured it was throttle cable out of zero.
initial login displayed pack voltage low (set @ 100) I knew that was not true and the meter tested 160-ish . i cleared the error and i remembered reading that the zero could get out of whack . so I tried to set zero . but after a few times there still was no love. i discovered the new fangled connector for the throttle wasn't really snapped into place it was just there. you have to push it in pretty good to get the click . then I got the zero out error . set zero and it's all good again.

I would want to be able to pick my own IP for the Controller . I know why you use 169... but I would rather assign the IP. then I could easily get it onto my own network and configure in pajama's

[Qer]

Originally Posted by ddmcse

I would want to be able to pick my own IP for the Controller . I know why you use 169... but I would rather assign the IP.

Yeah, well, it's quite possible to do but there's a few problems with it:

• Every new feature takes up program space and space is quite limited in embedded systems. So every time there's a new feature on someone's wish list we have to decide if it's simply useful enough to use up space that could be used for other features otherwise.
• Since it's likely that a Soliton owner will mess around with the parameters in the beginning and then eventually find a setting that works and leave it like that it feels like a feature with very limited usage.
• There's a consequence to the feature too; if you change the IP and later either sell the controller or simply forget what you changed it to, how are you going to reset it to factory settings since that's done through the web interface...?

So that's why the IP is hard coded.