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  #11  
Old 12-24-2011, 08:09 PM
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Default Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

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Originally Posted by PhantomPholly View Post
Yikes!!! - are you using stereo speaker wire? No connectors? Look at all the frayed strands where the wire was stripped!!! I hope this is just a temporary test lash-up....

Although these are cars rather than airplanes, for those unfamiliar with good wiring techniques I would highly recommend reading up on the practice and theory of all things electric you are likely to deal with in an EV from over 30 years of experience in aircraft electronics. Bob Nuckolls is renowned in the aviation world as "the man;" his primary book is called "Aeroelectric Connection." It is cheap for the knowledge it contains.
Nope that's the final product.... a 6.6v Porsche
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  #12  
Old 12-25-2011, 04:00 AM
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Talking Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

Wow, thanks for the picture. My pack will look similar, but with 10P / 90+S

The resistance using aluminum is one problem I might have since my pack requires many more connections.

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Originally Posted by rwaudio View Post
One thing that I have learned from my connection method is that I have slightly higher than expected/wanted connection resistance due to the simple quantity of connections in series.




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  #13  
Old 12-25-2011, 07:37 AM
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Talking Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

I have found two grades of aluminum in bus bars that are very conductive:

Grade 6101
Grade 1350

It seems the 1350 is more conductive, anyone know the difference in these two alloys?

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Originally Posted by EVfun View Post
I just wanted to point out that not all aluminum is equal. The conductivity of aluminum alloys varies widely from that of electrical grade aluminum. 6061 has about 70% of the conductivity of pure aluminum, 5052 only about 60% of the conductivity of pure aluminum, and 7075 only about 50% of the conductivity of pure aluminum. It isn't hard to get electrical grade copper but more difficult to get electrical grade aluminum. I think all the 1xxx series alloys are pretty close to the conductivity of pure aluminum. They are often harder to find.
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:42 AM
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Talking Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

Testing equipment needed to test 4000amps @ 3.7volts, is that possible? or 400amps @ 3.7volts?
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:44 AM
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Talking Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

Great information:

http://www.geindustrial.com/Newslett..._vs_Copper.pdf
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  #16  
Old 12-25-2011, 09:33 AM
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Default Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

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Originally Posted by LithiumaniacsEVRacing View Post
I have found two grades of aluminum in bus bars that are very conductive:

Grade 6101
Grade 1350

It seems the 1350 is more conductive, anyone know the difference in these two alloys?
Both of those alloys are used for electrical conductors. 6101 is more machinable but somewhat less conductive than 1350.

Here is data from Alcoa on 1350.
Here is data from Alcoa on 6101.
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:23 PM
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Talking Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

I have placed an order for the aluminum bus bars. I can cut and drill myself, but not sure about the tin coating process? Is there a way to dip or spray the bus bars with a home process? Or do I need to send them to a facility?
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  #18  
Old 12-25-2011, 01:44 PM
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Talking Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

I have found a home kit process, anyone ever try this method?

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/tin_plate.htm

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  #19  
Old 12-25-2011, 01:55 PM
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Default Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

I looked at that but it won't plate directly over aluminum. Actually, little will because of how quickly it makes a thin oxide layer. For the home plater it looks like you need to do this first. Then you could nickel plate. I believe the zinc coating on the aluminum is removed by the nickel plating process.

I don't know if nickel is suitable. It is the main component of stainless steel which is often used for fasteners with aluminum terminals. It is also commonly seen on the bus bars for NiCad battery packs.
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  #20  
Old 12-25-2011, 04:12 PM
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Talking Re: Pouch Cell Tab Connection Methods

Thank you for reviewing the website, I just posted the link after a quick look. Can I just leave the blocks coated with Zinc?

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Originally Posted by EVfun View Post
I looked at that but it won't plate directly over aluminum. Actually, little will because of how quickly it makes a thin oxide layer. For the home plater it looks like you need to do this first. Then you could nickel plate. I believe the zinc coating on the aluminum is removed by the nickel plating process.

I don't know if nickel is suitable. It is the main component of stainless steel which is often used for fasteners with aluminum terminals. It is also commonly seen on the bus bars for NiCad battery packs.
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