[skooler]

Hi All,

I'm currently at the stage of wiring up my Soliton in my RX8 conversion.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ad.php?t=61556

I'm getting myself into a bit of a pickle with the drive by wire system on the RX8 and how to make it work with the speed/pedal input on the Soliton. I need help!!!

My original idea was to steal the signal from the throttle body but it turns out the PCM (ECU) and traction control interfere far to much to get a good response.

I'm know looking to tap into the pedal directly before the ECU gets chance to interfere!

Only problem now is I can't find any diagrams on the internet and cant work out how it is wired up.

The pedal has a 6 pin connector, I assume it is 2* 3 pin pots or hall effect sensors.

While testing the pedal in the car I couldn't see any variation with voltage or resistance between any of the connections when the pedal position is changed.

So I took the pedal out the car and took it home to test. pictures are below

I have soldered 6 wires to the pins to allow me to easily connect the multimeter. I'll replace these with the original connector once I knowhow it works!













The picture above shows the resistance (in K ohms) between each pin. this doesnt change, nor does the voltage if I put 5V onto it.

Has anybody got any ideas!?

Many many thanks in advance!

Cheers

Mike

[piotrsko]

Can we get a listing of colors on the wiring harness and where they went on the connector?

[Woodsmith]

I can't help but I feared you wouldn't find it easy or simple.

I used a pedal from a Land Rover Defender. It had nine pins and was equally frustrating.
In the end I cut open the pot body and measured the carbon tracks directly until I found one that was 5K. It wasn't in the right place either and had resistances on either end.

I had to 'hotwire' it to make it usable. Wasn't easy soldering wires onto the flexible copper circuit board that the carbon tracks was on.

[bjfreeman]

the model for TPS is Supports Wide open(foot to the floor), Idle position, and relative position between those two.

you may have a built in canbus, so four leads would be Power, CanH, CanL, and Ground. The other two may be limit switches.

see my post on canbus thread

my suggestion is you got online to parts store and see if you an find one that is a pot driven assembly,

[bjfreeman]

The other is you have Dual Resistive elements.
Uusally reverse tapers.
Pin 1 would be common or supply voltage supplied to both elements
pin 2 would be one wiper arm
Pin3 would be the other wiper arm
Pin4 would be the common for the otherside of the elements.
the other two would be limit switches.
found this

[skooler]

Hi All,

Its working!

Turns out my multimeter will only read resistance with the leads one way around (is this normal?) which was confusing me! I got a friend over to double check everything and he got different results to me and eventually we worked out what was going on!

I had an incident with my multimeter a few weeks ago which led to some melting. It still worked so I simply soldered the lead back on at its been 'fine'.



Anyway, the pedal uses 2* 3 pin sensors. They're not convential pots as there is no mechanical link between the two. it appears to be magnetic? see pics in the first post.

Hooked it all up to the Soliton and it ran a dream after a bit of tweaking in the (very good) controller interface.

Tried it with an old starter battery and managed to control the car with it.


Now just to decide whether to run a wire direct from the pedal to the controller or from the ECU to the controller. Advantages are cruis control and traction control will still work and I think it may be linked to the electronic steering. Disadvantages being the ECU will interfere with what my right foot is doing!

Pictures below.

Screwed the pedal onto a pallet for testing.


A temporary 5V supply!


Voltage with Pedal untouched


Pedal to the errr.... wood



Thanks for all the help and input.

Cheers,

Mike

[skooler]

Oh, Thought i'd add this one for giggles!

This is how the car moved under its own steam with the controller!

[electricmini]

Originally Posted by skooler

Hi All,











Mike

Hi Mike

This looks just like the HEPA pedal I have for my Zilla, just the moulded brackets are a little different. Even the inside is identical, right down to the green part near the dual springs!

This is a dual Hall-effect pedal, with two magnetically-operated sensors.
The outputs of the two sensors operate together, but with different offsets
and scaling factors on their outputs (this is how the OEM engine ECUs detect pedal faults)

I can dig out the info that Otmar sent me when I had some questions about the pedal & Zilla, if you still need it

Richard (electricmini)

[skooler]

Originally Posted by electricmini

Hi Mike

This looks just like the HEPA pedal I have for my Zilla, just the moulded brackets are a little different. Even the inside is identical, right down to the green part near the dual springs!

This is a dual Hall-effect pedal, with two magnetically-operated sensors.
The outputs of the two sensors operate together, but with different offsets
and scaling factors on their outputs (this is how the OEM engine ECUs detect pedal faults)

I can dig out the info that Otmar sent me when I had some questions about the pedal & Zilla, if you still need it

Richard (electricmini)

Hi richard,

That's interesting. It's probably one manufacturer of pedals for several cars.

Thanks for the offer but i've got the pedal Sussed out now.

It might be worth posting it for others to use it though.

Cheers,

Mike

[Salty9]

Originally Posted by skooler

Oh, Thought i'd add this one for giggles!

This is how the car moved under its own steam with the controller!

I've been following a Steampunk thread on Endless Sphere. Would you, perhaps, call this Plankpunk?