[somanywelps]

Originally Posted by z_power

How about having separate 1.5-2 kW motor coupled with A/C compressor? Pump motors from small pallet lifts woul be suitable, the problem is that you'd need another controller to feed it with pack voltage (these motors usuallly are fed with 12-24v) or powerful DC/DC converter from pack V to 12/24V. Hardcore version would be using compressor from hybrid Toyoda or Honda coupled via small VFD to high voltage battery... just thinking out loud Oh, and you can find compressor/motor combos in cooling agregats for fridge vans...

Just feed from your 12v bus...

You already have a DC-DC

[DIYguy]

Originally Posted by GuySmily

I prefer temps around 60-70F, 75 max before I start looking for a fan or AC. I grew up in the fog near San Francisco (San Bruno, Pacifica, Daly City, etc), and I never got used to warmer weather. Don't think I would survive out in TX.

Anyway, to continue on about my AC dream...
It'd be ideal if the idle function could be turned on/off on the fly / while driving (like if I click the AC on, the idle would also be enabled).

I can see a few different options for resuming idle if I brake to a total stop with the AC (and thus idle) turned on:
Option 1. Shift to neutral (neutral sensor required) and have the motor idle up by itself (after a few seconds delay, maybe).
Option 2. Shifting to neutral (neutral sensor NOT required), and leave the motor "stalled" until I tap the gas pedal.
Option 3. "Start" the car again (Start input required). Not sure if the Soliton uses a continuously-on start signal here, or if it accepts a pulse (equivalent to cranking an engine or push-button start), but that might affect whether or not this is a viable option.

Can the Soliton do this? The programming for this actually sounds like it'd be fun (not that the end user would ever see/do it besides enabling it - it just seems like Qer has a cool job). What language is the Soliton's software written in anyway?

The majority of the time that I'm running the AC, I would probably drag the motor down to 0 rpm (no clutch/neutral) just to emulate "auto-stop." If I get too hot, I could follow whichever option (above) to get my AC going again, but otherwise I could leave it off to save battery.

Just my opinion, . . .but, u don't want to set up some kludgy operational method for a car specific to your car alone. Make it work like a normal car as much as possible, then anyone can drive it.
Obviously, clutch less and idle function are mutually exclusive. If u r using the clutch then, drive it like a regular standard car.
What do you mean by "shifting to neutral like an ICE car"?. Most people just shift to 1st gear and leave the clutch depressed. . . unless it is unusually long stop.
Otherwise, go with the A/C kit from Masterflux or fit one from an OEM car with electric A/C.
Here is a list of them from 2008;
Chevrolet Tahoe Hybrid
GMC Yukon Hybrid
Honda Civic Hybrid
Lexus GS 450h
Lexus LS 600h
Lexus RX 400h
Nissan Altima Hybrid
Toyota Camry Hybrid
Toyota Highlander Hybrid
Toyota Prius

I agree that short stops won't bother u too much if the AC is not driven.

[subcooledheatpump]

Get a seperate compressor, then a reversing valve. Now you have heating and cooling.

Someone mentioned using a VFD and a high voltage compressor and a high voltage battery. Thats exactly what I intend to do with my van. As others have said though, a lower voltage seperate compressor would probably be best. There are 12v compressors on the market/ebay. They aren't very big but they could do the job. As long as they can take R-134a you are good to go

[Tesseract]

Originally Posted by GuySmily

...
Maybe Tesseract or someone with experience will chime in: What happens if you "stall" the motor by braking to a stop in gear? I don't remember seeing much info on the idle behavior in the Soliton manual.

Idle is described on p18 of the manual.

You can stop idle by stalling the motor and re-engage it by accelerating the motor past its idle RPM setting.