[Dustin_mud]

Little 1/8th drags, road track racing, but mostly street beating. A swiss army knife of racing so to speak. Lol

[DIYguy]

Originally Posted by Dustin_mud

Little 1/8th drags, road track racing, but mostly street beating. A swiss army knife of racing so to speak. Lol

The 1/8 or 1/4 mile is easier to address. Perhaps the street beating is similar. As for the road track racing. . . you need to define power levels vs time.

[Bowser330]

Dutin read the blog posts about Jack's Cobra build...here is one you may find interesting...

http://jackrickard.blogspot.com/2011...-agony-of.html

check out the dynos, its using a warp11hv and a warpdrive 1400A controller

max horsepower is 182hp @ 2550rpm starting at 220V and sagging 25% to 169V.

[Batterypoweredtoad]

Originally Posted by Bowser330

Dutin read the blog posts about Jack's Cobra build...here is one you may find interesting...

http://jackrickard.blogspot.com/2011...-agony-of.html

check out the dynos, its using a warp11hv and a warpdrive 1400A controller

max horsepower is 182hp @ 2550rpm starting at 220V and sagging 25% to 169V.

Why was he using a regular warP11 type pack with a warP11HV?

[Dustin_mud]

I was wondering the same thing

[danh818]

Jacks cobra is one of the reasons I chose to go with the 11hv.
I spent hours upon hours compiling research from the EVTV blogs/videos and many more on this forum, as well as studying heavily all info in could find on John Metric's "DC Plasma" and John Wayland's "White Zombie". Even then I wasn't satisfied, so I figured I should just call up NetGain and see what they had to say.
I ended up speaking with George himself. I asked him a ton of questions and he was more than generous with his time (Thanks George). We talked about different motor and controller options, gearing and probably a hundred other variables. I hung up the phone with a solid understanding of his product and what it is capable of within it's recommend limits.
This was great, however a new problem had surfaced. For those not familier with the Porsche 944, it has a transaxle, meaning the transmission is combined in one unit with the differential at the rear of the car. That by itself is a good thing, it actually gave the factory car almost perfect weight distribution. Alas though my 944 was born without a turbo so the tranny and diff are somewhat weaker than the turbo version. I needed to find a diff to handle the torque of the 11hv and the correct gear ratios to run. After a bit more research and a few calls to some petrol-headed friends I had my answers.
Out here in So. Cal there is company that does a lot differentials for 4x4 and hotrods called Currie; they make a ford 9" just like the "Zombie" but this one is independent so can retain the factory rear suspension. Differential problem solved - a bare 9" IRS housing that I could mount in place of the factory transaxle.
Now for the 'transmission'. The 11hv would develop enough torque at lower RPMs, but how to keep it in the power band for road driving? - Enter the Gear Vendors overdrive. With a 1:1 'first' gear and a .78 'second' feeding into a 4.86 rear end I was reasonably sure this is was a good solution. After one last look at the dyno curves from Jacks cobra I called EV Source (NetGain distributor and maker of the warpdrive controllers) and placed my order.

Disclaimer: non of this has been tested, not yet anyway, it's all just figures on paper.

I should have the proof in a few weeks once I drop the motor in.
I really should start a build log, but I'm not much one for documentation. I will surely though report my results once the car is off its jack stands and back on the road.

[onegreenev]

Please do some documentation and photos to show. It helps others learn what is needed. I am working on my 66 Bug and I have an older model 11" Kostov motor and it has tons of torque and I can't use 1st or 2nd because of tranny hop. It hops real hard and bad. I need the torque bars to eliminate the torque hop that the VW is really well known to do. I am not sure how many have used an 11" motor in a little bug. Be aware of the great torque that your motor will provide. I have a Stage II pressure plate. If you go with any thing other than Stage II you should also look into hydraulic assist for your clutch. I may do that anyway. It is one stiff pressure plate.

But document and include photos. It is a good thing to do. Photos help if you do before and after.

Pete

[nucleus]

You might want to consider the dutchman axle version, it is a cast housing and costs less:

http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/product...ckage-cv-style

[danh818]

Sadly I had to replace my iPhone before getting the pictures of the motor mounted up to the Gear Vendors off of it. I only have pictures of the work from this week - roll cage installation - just boring pics of tubing being welded. I've got the two separated again so that I can begin to fabricate motor mounts. Once those are done I will be sure to post lots of pics and info.

[danh818]

Originally Posted by nucleus

You might want to consider the dutchman axle version, it is a cast housing and costs less:

http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/product...ckage-cv-style

Thanks for pointing that out. In hindsight I could have saved some major cash.
I was aware of the Dutchman IRS, but at the time I was looking at having the pinion point towards the rear of the car. Currie is local to me and they offered to swap the fill and drain plugs because the rear end was to be mounted upside down. The original plan was to put the motor and trans in the rear and balance the car by putting all my batteries (CALBs at the time) in the front. That's all out the window. The final plan calls for the motor and trans up front with all the batteries in back (A123's)