[Dan Frederiksen]

I should perhaps add that of course all units are SI unit, not deranged disgusting retarded US units. torque is newton-meter or Nm. if your data is in ft-lbs google for 'unit conversion' before using the formulae.

[BenNelson]

Hi All,

I went and visited a forklift today at lunch.
It is a Raymond 36V stand-on model.

It is in working condition, but has no battery pack.

It has 2 motors, a 7 inch diameter by 9 inch long motor for the hydrolics, and about a 10 inch motor for the wheels.

It also includes a 36V - 65 amp charger.

It costs $500, and I have to get it out of there my self.

Here are some photos, I will post more later. It's sounding pretty good, but I have no idea how to move this thing! I think it weighs about 4000 lbs!

-Ben

[BenNelson]

I have the rest of the photos

Click here to see them.

time for dinner - more info later.

-Ben

[Twilly]

OK, so how do you tell a series wound motor from other types? Why do some motors have 2 power lugs and some have 4?

Am I just looking for a 36/48 Vdc motor that weighs 100 to 150 lbs?

Thanks
Twilly

[BenNelson]

(Apologies if some of this is repeat, I am on multiple forums and trying to keep this all straight!)

A few weeks back, I set an ad out on CraigsList for a wanted to buy for assorted cheap parts to do a budget electric car conversion.

A few days ago, I got a call from a guy who is selling a forklift.

I got to go take a look at it today at lunch.

It is a Raymond 36V electric stand-on forklift. It is supposedly in working condition, but does not include battery pack.

The lift has a 7" diameter motor for the pumps and a 10" for the drive wheels.

Both motors look to be in good clean condition.

The weird part is that the forklift is at a crash-testing facility. I didn't even know we had one in town!

The sister forklift of this one was involved in a lawsuit. Lawyers sent this one to the facility to run over some crash test dummies and has been there ever since, not worth the cost to ship it back! So, they are selling it because it is just taking up space. (The facility already has a HUGE gas forklift they use for moving SUVs onto there test crash area...)

The unit also includes a 65 amp 36V charger.

The guy is asking $500 for it, including the charger.

It's gotta be worth more than that in scrap.
Besides the motors, it looks like there are all sorts of good levers, cable, hoses, and other bits useful for building things from.

The couple of catches are:

I need to haul it out - they won't deliver.
I have no place to put it right now other than my driveway.
How do I keep it from sinking into my driveway? Might be ok while it is this cold, but it will sink right into the asphalt as soon as it warms up at all.

I still don't know what vehicle I am going to convert. All I know it that it needs to be cheap, have as little rust as one can expect for the area, and must roll well!

I have some photos of the forklift HERE

All I need is $500 and a way to move it, and the forklift is all mine.

Any thoughts?

[BenNelson]

I showed the photos of the forklift to my friend last night. He is an engineer for a manlift company.

He told me that the motors look pretty good. They appear to be good quality rebuilds, so they have had the cleaning, bearings re-done, etc.

He said that his company uses 9" Advanced DC motors running at 48 volts for their lift trucks.

He also recognized the charger. I don't remember what brand name he said it was, but he said it was a good one, and that $500 would be a great deal on the charger alone.

He also mentioned that because the motor has those big, open view ports for the brushes, the the motor will need to be protected from the weather with a belly pan or some other cover or enclosure.

[houseoffubar]

The price of steel has gone up several hundred percent in just a few years. I would can only assume that if you take a car hauling trailer to pick it up, stop by home, and pull the motor, and controller, then drive straight to a metal re cycler, you will probably be given money for the chassis.

This would require a little for thought, and schedule an extra hour with the tow guys, but could work out pretty smooth. Just my thoughts, Eric

[Hi Torque Electric]

Twilly
A lift motor can usually be over volted (data tag rating) 2 to 3 times with 120 volts being used alot already. You do have to advance the timing 7 to 10 degrees depending on many, many, factors. I'm still recouping from my trip to Electric Dragin this weekend and hope this answers enough for now 8^)

Ben
Those 570-215 motors are a good motor and Advance still makes a current version (at least beyond that Prestolite version). It's a short 9" motor and if you could strech it out it'd be very comparable to a Warp9 or ADC9. At around 80 lbs (from memory) it's about half their mass though, so you'd need a pair to equal a "standard9".

The one problem is, that motor has a small commutator and it isn't a "heavy duty version" which had a bigger brush (the only difference). I could get you the HD brushes and brush rings and you could pop-rivit it into the plate. It'd make a huge difference in it's ability to take current. The biggest problem with this motor like I say is the small comm and brushes, as even the HD brush for this motor is the same brush for most the 6.7" motors that Prestolite made. So even though this motor has the 80 lbs mass lower limit met, it's 4 brush setup is mismatched to it's size if one looks at a 6.7 or 7.2" motor that weighs 80 lbs but has a longer comm and 8 brushes. This is a motor that I've been curious about as to how it'll do. It's my opinion that it's better suited for a motorcycle or three wheeler than a car due to it's small comm, I believe it doesn't have a fan either and would have to be blower cooled. My brain is melting fast and I hope this answers enough for now as well 8^)

?
I couldn't find who asked about terminal numbers. Two posted motors only run one direction and are pump motors, unless they are a per mag which switching the cables would make it reverse. 4 studded motors are usually drive motors (they do have 4 term'd pump motors, but rare and are just motors that could have been used for either a CW or CCW rotaion pump. Series wound motors have thick, corse, field windings. If you see thin wire, it's a sep-ex or compound wound motor.


Dan
Not to air this publicly but as you know, I've stopped replying to your stuff as I tierd of the insults and your know-it-all attitude on the EVDL. With that said, but being this is a thread I started, I felt I had to warn people that just about EVerything you stated is incorrect IMO. I've inserted some responses to your statements but won't make a habit of responding, as I have so many better things to do (in fact I have emails waiting right now) to those who also IMO are a better investment of my time like Tilly and Ben. I caution all to take Dans info with a grain of salt. Anyway, here's my take:

>>it's my impression that you can in principle feed them any voltage.

False: Motor's are limited (in huge ways) by the number of commutator bars they have, the higher the bar count the higher the voltage it can handle without arcing. Higher voltage rated motors also have field coils with smaller wire but more turns, and are the only differences between some of ADC's 36 vs 72 volt rated motors.

>>it's not like a 24V motor will melt if you feed it 36V.

This is true, but it might over-rev it to death, if it's not under load. Voltage creates speed, current is torque.

>>volts in principle can't hurt it BUT volt motivates current to appear.

Incorrect, 100 amps at 48 volts is the same work as 48 amps at 100 volts, both equal 4800 watts (correct me if I'm wrong 8^) General rule of thumb is volts up, current down, same work. The flashovers that the racers see is caused at least in huge ways by excessive voltage. So a little extra won't kill it but a lot will, at the very least it'll make it scream 8^o

>>the higher voltage the more current will tend to appear and current can destroy a motor.

Current is heat, and heat's a motors enemy.

>>to really understand it you have to understand the physics concept of work. nature has a magical way of ensuring you pay for the work a motor does. work is the force (or torque) applied over a distance. if you apply force and nothing moves you don't have to pay for it. just like a paper weight is free force. that force (or torque in the case of a motor which is just force going in circles) comes from the current and the work done during rotation is paid for with voltage. you can imagine a worker that only does as you pay him.
this means for instance if the motor is stalled, let's say up against a wall and can't turn even a little voltage will make the current rise a lot because there is no rotation and no work done. you pay voltage and it tries to make work.


I want Dan to take a forklift that's against a wall and push it with all his might for 5 minutes, and then tell me no work was done! Work was done, it just all went to heat. A typical lift controller is 36 volts at 400 amps (36 X 48 = 14400 watts) so the lift was pushing the wall with 14.4 HP (using 1000 watts per HP to account for losses) and with a lifts gear ratio there would be a lot of torque, but just not enough to bunny hop a curb with a 5000 lbs forklift. Being the current would sit on an umoving comm bar, the result would be a melted comm bar. Stick a copper bar across 36 volts and see how long it takes to heat that puppy up, this is what happens to a stalled, brushed motor.

Sorry for the delay in getting this out but I got to go play and have some fun over the weekend and didn't have usual internet access and or time for emails (let alone writing about the EVent). I hope this reads well as I am tired (and a bit grumpy maybe, because of it) as my volt meter is now reading 100 DOD, LMAO

Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric

[Testit and u shall know]

11kw rated 9.5" $485 US

[Dan Frederiksen]

Jim, work in this context is a scientific concept and defined exactly as I say. it's not the common meaning of work. if the motor isn't turning no work is being done no matter how much energy is poured into it in the form of heat in the wires from the current. work is force times distance (in the force direction). if the distance is zero so is the work.