[lazzer408]

3.6hp? Sure that's not 13.6hp? Seems low for a 208lb motor. Post pics.

[rcavictim]

Originally Posted by lazzer408

3.6hp? Sure that's not 13.6hp? Seems low for a 208lb motor. Post pics.

That is correct. 36 volts X 98 Amps = 3528 watts. At almost 1 kW to make a HP, that figures right. Obviously when you make more volts and amps available the power shows up.

I am unable to post pics as the only ones I have exceed the posting file size limits. I need to get picture editing software installed on my 'puter.

[lazzer408]

Originally Posted by rcavictim

That is correct. 36 volts X 98 Amps = 3528 watts. At almost 1 kW to make a HP, that figures right. Obviously when you make more volts and amps available the power shows up.

I am unable to post pics as the only ones I have exceed the posting file size limits. I need to get picture editing software installed on my 'puter.

I know how many watts in a hp. It's the WEIGHT of the motor. It doesn't take 208lbs of copper and iron to make a 3.6hp motor. 208lbs but only 3.6hp 1hr rating? Very conservative imo.

Get Microsoft image resizer. 521 KB
http://download.microsoft.com/downlo...ertoySetup.exe

Rightclick the picture>resize It doesn't get any easier.

[JRP3]

Or use an online image resizer like this: http://www.resize2mail.com/
It's a little slow if you have a very large image file but it works.

[rcavictim]

Lazzer,
I meant no patronizing tone when I was confirming the nameplate hp rating. Yes indeed, as you suggest this 'beast' must be really conservative in it's ratings.

JRP3,
Thank you for that resizer link. I have attempted to post two pictures of my motor. I apologize for the poor quality of the photos.

The commutator is practically like new and the bearings are good. When I got it several years ago I power washed it and then let it sit on the cold damp floor of my shop where condensation has caused a lot of ugly surface rust to appear. This will clean up like new and get a paint job if I determine it is worthwhile using it for my small car EV project. This motor was used in my lab two summers ago as a dummy load for a 48 volt PWM controller that I made from scratch based on the SG3525 chip for my electric bicycle EV based on a Honda CB360 twin cylinder motorcycle.

[major]

Originally Posted by rcavictim

The commutator is practically like new and the bearings are good.

Yeah,

Comm looks nice. Leave that film on there. Don't clean the comm or get oil on it.

The low one hour rating is due to the class B insulation and absence of an internal fan. The drive end looks totally enclosed. So it will be difficult to force air thru the thing. But if you can figure how to, it will help a lot. With class B, 50 degrees C lower than class H, which most are now a days, you can't run this as hard. And those pigtails on the brushes are on the thin side. That could be a limiting factor on your current limit.

I think Allis Chalmers stopped making their own motors for lift trucks back around 1975 or 1980. Looks like an oldie, but goodie.

Regards,

major

[rcavictim]

Originally Posted by major

Yeah,

Comm looks nice. Leave that film on there. Don't clean the comm or get oil on it.

The low one hour rating is due to the class B insulation and absence of an internal fan. The drive end looks totally enclosed. So it will be difficult to force air thru the thing. But if you can figure how to, it will help a lot. With class B, 50 degrees C lower than class H, which most are now a days, you can't run this as hard. And those pigtails on the brushes are on the thin side. That could be a limiting factor on your current limit.

I think Allis Chalmers stopped making their own motors for lift trucks back around 1975 or 1980. Looks like an oldie, but goodie.

Regards,

major

Major,

Thank you for the helpful comments. I suppose brushes with heavier pigtail leads can be purchased. These look similar to other brush photos I've been looking at in the much newer motors. As for lack of a fan and airflow, brilliant observation! Ding, that hadn't occured to me at all. I suppose I could punch a few exhaust vents in the front end and install screens. A manifold could be fabricated to attach pressurized air from an external blower to the brush inspection holes. I could run the blower off the rear tapered shaft where the brake originally went. The class-B insulation is an unfortunate limiting factor.

I have another motor that is much smaller diameter rated at 19 something horsepower, 36 volts at much higher amps and 5 minutes duty cycle per hour. It came with a Cesna hydraulic pump on it with internal splined shaft receptacle on this motor as the output, one end only. It may have been a hydraulic pump from a forklift. Only weighs about 98 lbs. IIRC. Brush gear is MUCH heavier and it has a fan in it. Obviously it will need drastically beefed up cooling. Motorcycle motor????? Insert evil laugh here. Mua ha ha. I'll grab a photo or two and the data.

[Hi Torque Electric]

Hey ID Slayer

White Zombie is not using the motor you stated but a pair of Advance8" motors as just an FYI (trust me on this lmao!! 8^)

RC:

Your motors seen better days but from the pics you sent me still valid on the inside. As Jeff noted it's got no fan and probably not the best of end plate to mount from but doable. As an option you could build a blower band for it where one side has the intake tube and the other side has an exit hole where you could at least blow air across the brushes and comm which will be the area generating the most heat. I did this on an 11" motor that was basically enclosed and attached a small piece of expanded metal to the exit hole to keep crap and fingers from getting in. In many ways some of the older motor were made back when meat was cheap and in fact can have better parts compared to what's found in newer motors where costs seem to play a bigger role than quality. Hard to say the exact condition of this motor from the couple pics sent but most of the lets call it ugly seems to be on the outside due to eviroment it was in.

Hope this helps.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque electric

[david85]

Welcome back, Jim

Long time no see.

[rcavictim]

Originally Posted by Hi Torque Electric

RC:

Your motors seen better days but from the pics you sent me still valid on the inside. As Jeff noted it's got no fan and probably not the best of end plate to mount from but doable. As an option you could build a blower band for it where one side has the intake tube and the other side has an exit hole where you could at least blow air across the brushes and comm which will be the area generating the most heat. I did this on an 11" motor that was basically enclosed and attached a small piece of expanded metal to the exit hole to keep crap and fingers from getting in. In many ways some of the older motor were made back when meat was cheap and in fact can have better parts compared to what's found in newer motors where costs seem to play a bigger role than quality. Hard to say the exact condition of this motor from the couple pics sent but most of the lets call it ugly seems to be on the outside due to eviroment it was in.

Hope this helps.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque electric

Hi Jim,

Thanx for the input!

I have another motor here. This is a 7-1/8" diameter about 15"long. Allis Chalmers from the same source so maybe off the same lift.

Frame 450CSV2
H.P. 11.5
RPM 2015
Volts 36
Amps 294
Winding- COMPOUND (only two terminals to outside world)
Deg. C rise- windings 115
-commutator 130
Insulation class - F

weight 102 lbs. (?)

This one has an exhausting blower on the output end, sucks air in through the brush service ports and pulls air through the entire motor. The cast aluminum blade does not have many fins, is a rough casting and doesn't look very effective compared to what could be done with an external blower IMO. This is also a candidate. I need to determine which one would be better suited for my car project assuming time will be spent improving whichever motor of the two I decide to use.

This one has much less commutator bars than the physically larger series wired capable motor mentioned earlier.

Am I correct in assuming that a compound wound motor will not have as much locked rotor and slow RPM torque as can be had from a series wound? Are compound wound motors suitable for EV's using a simple PWM controller and a transmission to achieve reverse motion?
Can a compound wound motor provide Regenerative Braking with the proper controller?

I'll post pictures of this second motor shortly.

Regards,
rca