While the brackets fabricated from cut plates are great, I don't see the need for it in this case. Wouldn't two simple tubes (one straight across the top and one vee-shaped under the bottom) and some plain plate gussets work?What I’m having trouble with is should I do tubular and the overall design . I searched and looked around what some people did in this forum and on youtube etc.. Examples the rear wheel drive CRX build thread, Tesla Bimmer ... I became aware of Send Cut Send and Fusion 360 Im trying to figure out how to use.
So I am thinking of doing something like the Tesla Bimmer. I’m using cardboard to shape things. Take photo to use as canvas in fusion 360 size it up and trace most of it and make appropriate edits.
View attachment 122268
There will be two of these plates "boxed up”. Also a “C” clamp like bracket to weld on the frame rail and then this will be welded on that. I’m thinking of 11 Gauge Chromoly. The frame rail i believe is 16 gauge. So I will need to be careful welding different gauge materials. This is just the start, i will then make a bracket for the side support. And other mount bracket that will bolt to the subframe points over the steering rack using same bolt spots. They look strong enough to support.
View attachment 122269
Another option is instead of that front plate bracket at the front, i can use a tubular design for the front mount. The Evo has a front center member/brace. It bolts and runs from under the subframe to the front chassis bottom support. Normally the transmission would have mounted there as a front roll support. This is not my car but another EVO to show as an example. What you all think ? Issue with this is , the bar would be slightly to the driver side and not directly under the motor mount.
The system which mounts the front of the stock transaxle to the radiator support element of the body makes sense, but it's probably not supporting the weight of the powertrain, just resisting drive torque. The front mount of the Tesla drive unit supports about half of the unit's weight, all of the time. I'm not sure that this is where the load should go.
If you're only bending one tube (for any bracket), it might make more sense to pay a shop to do it than to buy equipment. If buying something, the cheap pipe benders (assume something like this) are great if they work for you... but they are notoriously poor for smoothly bending structural tubing. By coincidence, this just came up in another thread.... if I used chromoly tubing and got a cheap mechanical harborfright tube bender to make a slight S bend . I would say around 3-4” of an S bend.