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500A 100V 48V 60V 72V DC motor speed controller PWM current limit RS232 Arduino

500A 100V 48V 60V 72V DC motor speed controller PWM current limit RS232 Arduino

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$299 USD on eBay
Use this controller for any brushes motor! Like: trolley, outboard, electric bicycle or more.... Advantages against other motor controllers: True heavy load copper track can handle very high peak currents and 200A continuous current. Isolated RS232/485 connection with full access of controll registers and much more usefull adjustable parameters. Advanced PCB layout technik. High speed 32bit Cortex processor. Connection with high current M6 screws. Built with 3.4mOhm ultra low resistance MOSFETs Adjustable 4 operation modes: 1. normal potentiometer 2. magnetic hall throttle (with 0.5-4,5V output) 3. direct PWM input (0-95%) 4. RC PWM input 1,5ms +/-1ms 2 quadrant operation (drive CW and regenerative brake CW) Low warming and capable to accept heatsink. 20kHz switching frequency Duty cycle: 0-97% Universal 0-5V speed controller input. You don't have to use the potentiometer to controll the speed. You can use PLC output or any analog signal or PWM signap from uPC or RC receiver PWM signal. Regenerative braking (you can brake the motor and get back all the kinetic energy into the battery) For the highest safety the regenerative braking never substitutes the ordinary brake! Adjustable ramp speed. 0-20sec. (acceleration limit) Normal current continuous limit is adjustable between 0-200A Switchable peak current ON or normal strict current limit Peak current 300A for 5 seconds. Adjustable regenerative current. Universal supply voltage between 22-200V DC. Dimensions: 220 x 135 x 50 mm Note: For the maximum power you have to add extra heatsink to the aluminium block. The aluminium block is predilled with M4 holes. 900g Adjustable and saveable parameters with RS232/RS485 read/write commands: Motor speed Current limit/regenerative current limit Acceleration/deceleration limit Turn ON/OFF minimum and turn ON/OFF maximum voltage levels for example turn off the unit at low battery voltage Heatsink and Motherboard temperatures Supply voltage Potentiometer input voltage (you can use this input for an analoge measurement input if you are controlling the speed with RS232/485 commands ) Output current Input frequency on PWM input Input duty on PWM input I x R compensation (this if for speed regulation compensation the load drop voltage) Top output voltage / supply compensation (maximum speed limit) (this can be very usefull in more cases. As you give a maximum reference voltage (maximum RPM) what the output can be with the maximum gas setting. This value becomes a reference voltage and archive perfect supply voltage compensation. This means if your supply voltage drops of raise your motor PRM remains the same. Using the supply compensation and the I x R compensation together you can archive perfect speed regulation without any closed loop feedback and no tachogenerator is needed. Status register Configuration bits Adjustable RS485 address controlling more controllers on one line. Current calibration register For more information and how to use the RS232/485 communication please read the datasheet with the controll registers. Why choose this controller? On the ebay there is many type of controller the most piece is a chinese simple and cheap controller. They are great until you put a large load to theirs output. -That controllers don't have supply filtering what is very important! Without it the most of the chinese controller regularly burning down. -They haven't got proper freewheele diode against the motor inductive current! -The most of them don't have any current limit function which is very important by a motor. This unit is a current limited speed controller for any brushed DC motor with great LOW ESR capacitor supply filtering and a syncgronous switching freewheel diodes! How can you controll the motor speed with this controller? With the current limit potentiometer you can very fine adjust the current what the motor can maximum consumes. For example, you have 2000W 24V DC motor. Your motor nominal current is 83A. Than you adjust the current limit to 80A. After them your motor and PWM driver is fully protected against the burning down and over load. Additional protection is the temperature protection. The controller measure the temperature of heatsink. If that exceed the maximum than the controller will shutting down. You can easily control the motor speed between 0-95% with the motor speed controller potentiometer which is connected to the potentiometer terminal. Of course if you have a throttle you can use it ot if you have a special project and you want to controll the unit with your PWM signal which comes from your uPC unit you aslo can do taht. If you have any question special request or something, please feel free to contact, we are electrical engineers there isn't problem what can't solve. We will see what can we do. If you need more pieces please contact I can give you discount! Warranty: 6 months European shipping: mainly 3-6 days (average) + handling time: 1-3 days Worldwide: mainly 8-12 days (avrerage) + handling time: 1-3 days

Forum Discussions about this Product

1 - 4 of 4 Posts
  1. A

    Newbie John's First EV Conversion

    8
    2K
     by Moltenmetal
    1. A

      · Registered
      Joined
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      9 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
      Today i purchased a EV Project Car.
      It is a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse which had previously been converted to Electric by somebody else. I found it through a Craigslist AD and got it for what i think is pretty cheap. I was not buying it from the original builder so i cannot get questions answered there.

      It looks like most of the electronics are missing. I was told that the controller and batteries were sold on ebay, however now that i have it and have looked around, it seems like its missing a bit more than just that. i am assuming a vehicle like this must also have a vacuum pump for the break booster to function, and another pump for the power steering to function. I am assuming that to make this vehicle road worthy certain electronics must also function such as ABS, and Airbags. I would prefer to start with a Pre-OBD vehicle so i don't have to worry about any electronics, but this will have to work for my first EV.

      I have experience with electronics and basic mechanical skills. But i have never done a project quite like this before. I was told this was a 120V setup. using 9 batteries, I am assuming they were 12v batteries which makes sense, 13.5x9=121.5 volts.

      The first thing i did before buying it is jack up one of the front tires and hook up a 48v battery pack that i made. I went through each of the gears and made sure that at least the tires are spinning and hopefully the transmission is alright. Then i tried and take a photo of the tag on the motor.
      It is facing the firewall so the best i can do is get my phone in there and try and snap a photo. It is hard to make out all the information.

      While the car is not legal, and the brakes barely work id like to get it moving a bit. at least that way i can make sure the transmission and clutch are working properly. but i need some kind of speed controller.
      My budget for this car is not vast. id like to do it as cheaply as possible.
      For the last 6 months i have been collecting and testing 18650 lithium battery cells. I have quite a collection building. i have over 800 cells. most of which i still need to test. I hope to use these to create my battery bank for this EV.
      I did spot this on ebay, but have no experience with speed controllers. https://www.ebay.com/itm/300A-200V-...mit/172668870882?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144


       
  2. Acty DCty

    Planning 1994 Honda Acty conversion!

    2 3
    54
    8K
     by Acty DCty
    1. Acty DCty

      · Registered
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      33 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #18 ·
      As promised, here is a text update on our progress!
      • We bought a used GE forklift motor. The motor has a SEPEX field and is capable of regen. I am not sure of the exact model number. It is capable of taking up to 120 vdc. We tested it, and it still works. Next step here is to disassemble and clean it. For those who like videos, we made a video about the motor here.
      • We bought a small quantity of 100 Ah 3.2vdc LiFePo4 batteries so that we can build a very basic circuit and start running tests. Wired in series, the batteries will total about 64vdc, which is about half what we expect to use, and we also roughly guess we will want 2 banks of them in parallel for 200 Ah. So, this is probably about a quarter of our final total of batteries. The batteries have a low charge and discharge rate: just 100 amps. But considering I can push the Acty uphill with one arm while there’s a passenger inside it, I think it will probably be fine. The calculation I did suggested that, even with the low discharge rate, 120vdc of these batteries would give us around 35 horsepower - almost exactly what the current engine offers. Anyway, if they don’t work for this, we’ll just sell them. Video about the batteries here.
      • We’ve built and installed an AM radio transmitter so that you can get phone audio over the car’s speaker. We’ve also installed a second speaker. (The car only came with one!) Videos about the transmitter are here: 1 2 3
      • We bought LED lights to replace the current lights in the car, and have been replacing them as the shipments arrive.
      • We’ve ordered spray insulation, which we’ll use to help the cab retain heat better in winters. Video about energy efficiency here.
      • We ordered this controller, which should also be capable of regen. I hope it works with our other systems. We don’t know much about how these things work. I’ll be coming back here for advice once it arrives. (If it doesn’t play nice with our batteries and motor, I’ll just hock it on eBay again.)
      • We ordered a cheap potentiometer pedal that I believe should work with the controller.
      Next up, we need a battery management system, and we’re not sure where to begin on that. Any suggestions?
       
  3. L

    Want to Buy Wanted 120 V DC 250 Amp Controller

    3
    894
    1. C

      · Registered
      Joined
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      1,065 Posts
      #3 ·
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

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