[steveolyo]

I finally have my 56 ford truck project wired up but I have a controller problem.

The light on the Curtis 1238 controller blinks a yellow light, which I think is good. But after pressing the accelerator the red light blinks and I read a code 47.

The 1238 manual has code 47 as an HPD sequencing fault and lists the following possible causes:

1. KSI, interlock, direction, and throttle inputs applied in incorrect sequence.

2. Faulty wiring, crimps, or switches at KSI, interlock, direction, or throttle throttle inputs.

Also the Set/Clear conditions are:

Set: HPD (High Pedal Disable) or sequencing fault caused by incorrect sequence of KSI, interlock, direction, and throttle inputs.

Clear: Reapply inputs in correct sequence

Is this the way I have something hooked up, or is this a programming problem that will require having the controller reprogrammed?

 

[Ivansgarage]

A bad throttle pot is quite common, ohm it out. 0-5K ohm

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[steveolyo]

Thanks for the advice. I did check out the pot and it is 5K ohms and works as expected I also tried another. Same result. Code 47

 

[mizlplix]

It is possible to have your encoder direction reversed from your actual shaft direction.

And get a code 47. It is switchable in encoder settings.

 

[steveolyo]

That sounds like something I would need a programmer for, right? I don't have a programmer unfortunately.

 

[mizlplix]

Oops! Yes, and your throttle pot output needs checked too. It is supposed to be 0-5 volts, but it might actually be .2-4.5 volts. There is a setting for that.

And your pack voltage has a setting, min and max.

and your throttle type has a setting too.

Several things need last minute setting.......

A hand held is the easy way to go, but the computer software has a few extra things it does.

Plus when you have problems, one of them is needed to diagnose and fix.

 

[steveolyo]

Ok, I ordered a programmer. Soon I might be able to see what the problem is.
Here is the one I ordered. I hope its the right one:
Curtis 1313-4431 Programmer

 

[Ivansgarage]

You sure the throttle is wired correctly. Are j1-15 and j1-18 reversed?

Checked my dyno controller this morning, I don't have J1-15 even hooked up?

So J1-16 J1-18 NO Throttle low ohms, full throttle 5K ohms

 

[steveolyo]

I have 16 to the throttle wiper and 15 to throttle high and 18 to throttle low.

 

[steveolyo]

Ok, I now have a handheld programmer.
Here are the values for the throttle. Do these look right?

 

[Ivansgarage]

Ok, I now have a handheld programmer.
Here are the values for the throttle. Do these look right?

Yep two problems I see

You have throttle type 2 selected BUT you are using a three wire throttle
should be type 3.

HPD SRO should be 0
-HPD/SRO- set to 0...Disabled, not used for road vehicles...yet

 

[steveolyo]

Thanks for the help. I made the change to the throttle type and HPD SRO set to 0.
Great! No more errors.
But the motor still won't respond. More testing finds the contactor is not contacting. It's a 72 volt Tyco.
Then I find that the Driver 1 and coil return are at 94V, I think I blew the coil because it should be at 72 Volts. Is that correct thinking? Also the coil on the tyco contactor shows that it is open, so it probably has been blown.

I further tried to get the Driver 1 and coil return to drive a lower voltage by programming the Driver-> Contactor Pull In Voltage to 70% but I get no change as indicated by my volt meter (still shows 94V). Is that not how it should work?

Maybe my 1238 is bad.

Any help or ideas would be great. I posted my schematic earlier, is there a better way to wire the 1238?

Thanks

 

[mizlplix]

Everyone installs their own VCL. Very few leave all options open and changeable. They seem to favor their own equipment and freeze settings to fit their equipment.

Advice: buy correct contactor.

My VCL is open. I can set anything . My contactor is 24VDC. I set 32VDC pull in and 23VDC hold. Three years now and working well.

 

[steveolyo]

What contactor do you recommend? Also how do I learn the VCL programming?

 

[Ivansgarage]

Tyco EV200 Contactor 500AMP 320V 12V or 24V coil Might find it cheaper some place else NO on the coil optimizer

http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=8&products_id=102

http://www.electricmotorsport.com/te-tyco-kilovac-lev200-24v-500a-sealed-contactor.html


Mizlplix did not mean everybody does their own vcl ONLY people OEMs that are making equipment or motors.
Curtis has a training program if you buy 100,000 dollars worth of controllers.


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[mizlplix]

The contactor you had was the most common one. 24VDC coil
But you need to check the coil pull in and hold voltage. 28 pull in 23 hold.

If your encoder is on the end opposite your drive coupler, the encoder needs set to "reverse" to work correctly. If it was on the coupler end it would be set to straight,

No, us mere mortals usually do not modify the VCL. It is on an EPROM. So you can not even get a copy to look at and modify.

 

[steveolyo]

Ok, finally I found the problem.

I thought I had a contactor problem because of infinite ohm reading on my multimeter.

As a last ditch check, I cut the connectors off of the relay coil and checked the resistance there. Joy! The reading was around 350 ohms.

So the connectors that came with the coil had a bad connection. I replaced the connectors and the contactor started to work properly and for the first time in two years, the motor turned. Awesome! Yes I've been working on this for two years.

I did learn that the controller output on pins 6 and 13 measure max voltage without any load. In my case 93 volts. Once I had the contactor coil load connector, then the voltage tracked the hold % that I had programmed.

Now I need to work on lights and other 12V wiring functions, but soon I hope to be on the road.

Thanks for the help