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The first order of business is to inspect the transmission. This one is a 1964 thru 1966 model. (single metal vent). It had a rear pump (Pressure tap at right/rear bulkhead). Removed when built by TCI. A rear pump is only good for push-starting an ICE.
It was operating when removed. SO, I pulled the pan, it was clean. the filter was clean. I tapped out the pan plug to 1/4NPT for a temp sender (it is a sensor AND a drain plug), installed a new gasket, torqued the pan back on. I checked the shaft endplay with a dial indicator, it was a little on the tight side, but I decided to fly with it. I next removed the outputshaft housing. (again, very clean inside). The speedo drive gears had been removed for racing, they need to go back in. Then change the front and rear seals. Paint it green...LOL then power train assembly can begin.
Note the direct drive coupler. They come in two Chevy types, Early & late. Early has a 3-5/8" bolt circle and two piece oil seal, and the late has a 3" bolt circle and a one piece seal. (Also called their "crate engine") Get the one that matches your adapter kit....!!! They all have an adjustment for length. on the first snap ring groove, the center shaft does not protrude from the flange (pictured). It cannot do so because of the supplied motor coupler inner bore is too small. Mine was 3/8" too long...PROBLEM....Option 1-Move flange to the 3rd snap ring groove to make the length correct. Then lathe turn my new coupler to open up the center bore to accept the center shaft. OR Option 2- shorten the shaft from the rear (my choice). Also shorten the transmission inner drive shaft 3/8" too. It was an hours work and easy to do at home. Now everything bolts up perfectly!
More pics comming.
It was operating when removed. SO, I pulled the pan, it was clean. the filter was clean. I tapped out the pan plug to 1/4NPT for a temp sender (it is a sensor AND a drain plug), installed a new gasket, torqued the pan back on. I checked the shaft endplay with a dial indicator, it was a little on the tight side, but I decided to fly with it. I next removed the outputshaft housing. (again, very clean inside). The speedo drive gears had been removed for racing, they need to go back in. Then change the front and rear seals. Paint it green...LOL then power train assembly can begin.

Note the direct drive coupler. They come in two Chevy types, Early & late. Early has a 3-5/8" bolt circle and two piece oil seal, and the late has a 3" bolt circle and a one piece seal. (Also called their "crate engine") Get the one that matches your adapter kit....!!! They all have an adjustment for length. on the first snap ring groove, the center shaft does not protrude from the flange (pictured). It cannot do so because of the supplied motor coupler inner bore is too small. Mine was 3/8" too long...PROBLEM....Option 1-Move flange to the 3rd snap ring groove to make the length correct. Then lathe turn my new coupler to open up the center bore to accept the center shaft. OR Option 2- shorten the shaft from the rear (my choice). Also shorten the transmission inner drive shaft 3/8" too. It was an hours work and easy to do at home. Now everything bolts up perfectly!
More pics comming.