[Duncan]

Hi
You connect one of the armature connections to the battery
The other armature connection to one of the field coil connections
The final field coil connection to the other terminal of the battery

Going by my 11 inch Hitachi it takes a lot of current even at 12v

I threw away the gearbox with my machine and had the motor where the gearbox would have gone

Your motor should be big enough to do the same - I suspect mine would simply destroy your back axle

This has the major advantage that it frees up the whole "engine bay" for batteries

How much range do you need?
THAT is going to be your biggest problem

 

[Duncan]

16 kwh will probably be enough for 60 miles

My "device" is wider and less aerodynamic and is more like 50 km out of 14 kwh

 

[Duncan]

Still not able to get the DC motor to run. I may have wasted $250. If I couldn't use it in the Sprite maybe I could use it in a future project or sell it. Now I'm considering using an AC motor connected directly to the drive shaft. Ill need the battery room. Hoping not to be too disappointed about losing the tranny.

It's time to take you multimeter out and have a look at that motor

First the field coils - should be less than 0.1 Ohms

Then the Armature - again less than 0.1 Ohms

Use the meter to test both the field and the armature to the carcass - should be in the MegaOhm range

Possibilities
- Unlikely - you have mistaken a temperature sensor for a field coil

More likely - your brushes are hanging up and not contacting the commutator

When you couple the 12v battery do you get a spark?
A 12v battery connected to a motor like that will draw several hundred amps for a second or two

If no "spark" then something is wrong

 

[Duncan]

Thanks for the response. All the ohm readings are good. I get a big arc when I apply power. When I apply power, the normally free turning armature gets held firmly in place by magnetic forces. I'm getting tired of taking it apart and putting it back together!

Gets held in place....

I advanced the brush timing on my motor by 8 degrees - this is to allow higher speeds and voltages

However that advance cost me about 20% in torque....

An "advance" of 45 degrees would give you zero torque and feel like the motor was being held

Is it possible that you have assembled the end housing with the brushes on to the main barrel at 45 degrees to the correct location?

 

[Duncan]

Hi John

Can you do what Major suggests - he is the expert on this forum and is much more likely to be able to help you