[oudevolvo]

I did a test on my transmission before proceeding on the project and found it to be quiet. I know, unusual, huh? I had a friend restoring a 1967 122S and he tried 3 trannies out from a local Volvo graveyard before finding a quiet one.

I had mine fully rebuild before installing it. Normally it would be quiet enough.
But as soon as the noisy B18 is gone you notice how noisy it is.
On the other hand I already know that after eliminating it I’ll think the rain gutters are noisy.
But in the end it is a classic and old car.
Dropping the rear diff and implement IRS would be best solution but not feasible (for me).

 

[jclars]

Hey good thought! We finally agree on something. Oatmeal raisin are my favorite!

On the EV West tutorial, the infrared temp gauge only shows around 400 when they slap it on. And I mean, slap it on with a welding glove clad hand.

 

[Pehr]

Dropping the rear diff and implement IRS would be best solution but not feasible (for me).

How about putting a de Dion tube from a Volvo 340/360 at the rear?

 

[brian_]

How about putting a de Dion tube from a Volvo 340/360 at the rear?

An interesting possibility, but would the de Dion tube clear the drive unit? Following the same general design but with a custom beam (tube) is an alternative.

 

[Pehr]

An interesting possibility, but would the de Dion tube clear the drive unit? Following the same general design but with a custom beam (tube) is an alternative.

🤔 Not sure. The CVT in those cars is rather voluminous though.

 

[remy_martian]

Almost may be perfectly volumnuous for a Leaf drive unit from the looks of it 🤓

 

[brian_]

🤔 Not sure. The CVT in those cars is rather voluminous though.

Yes, but it's quite narrow at the back, so something like a Leaf drive unit might not clear the beam on the right-hand side where the de Dion beam bends forward and the Leaf inboard CV joints is displaced to the right to clear the motor.

Nice illustration.

 

[jclars]

It's been a week and not much action, except sit and wait. Apparently the Hyper 9 requires a spacer ring to seat the coupler to the original flywheel position. With the original ICE sitting on my shop floor it wasn't too difficult to figure out. So while in discussion with EV West, I found a shaft collar at McMaster-Carr that matched the criteria. Then EV West asked why I would use a shaft collar when they had one already designed. I didn't think it was an off the shelf item, but when they offered to send one to me gratis, I accepted. Not sure why they didn't like the shaft collar idea - do you guys think it would throw balance of the motor out of wack, as opposed to say a thinner custom spacer?

Then there's the matter of the pilot bushing/bearing. I would install this in the coupler end, which is fitted to the 1.125" motor shaft. It seems that is a hard OD to find, while maintaing the .59" of the tranny input shaft. I am taking the coupler to an industrial bearing suppler tomorrow to see if they can find a fit. The closest I got was 1.09"x .59". I have also found an oversized one that I could have machined down. Again, EV West is looking into what they used on their one and only Volvo build. Apparently good records of this build don't exist, so it's been a bit of a slog.

Oh well, I am also waiting for suspension parts (from Sweden?) to finish the front end build, so motor can't be fitted anyway...

So shop activity has been limited to scraping off 60 year old grease and painting.

 

[remy_martian]

The input shaft is not turning relative to the coupler, so you don't need a bearing there anymore. Just a bushing for alignment.

Brass is easiest to machine, but your choice there.

 

[jclars]

Thanks remy! A hot rod friend also mentioned that, but way to much slop at 1.09" OD. Lot's of parts juggling at the moment.

 

[remy_martian]

What slop? A bushing is being machined...

 

[jclars]

1.09"OD stock bushing available is too sloppy. Meaning I either find a stock one to fit 1.125" shaft or have one machined.
I thought you could read minds remy.

 

[remy_martian]

Cedar shims, Home Depot, will fix that

 

[jclars]

You read my mind...

 

[jclars]

Well, I almost made my deadline of motor into vehicle by weeks end...

The pilot bushing got more involved than I thought, having to get the coupler bored out to accept the correct size pilot bushing. that took a few days, and I just got the coupler onto the motor this morning.

Then I found that the ring gear on the Volvo flywheel would interfere with the bell housing adapter, so I worked to separate the ring gear from the flywheel. Finally, I found that the fly wheel bolt pattern was about 1mm off from the coupler bolt circle...

Ugh. Maybe next week?

And I haven't even got to the electrical aspect yet...

But I did get the front suspension back in the car and so it is now standing ready to accept a new motor at the very least!

 

[jclars]

So the deed was done today, but I realized I have only just started the motor assembly process!

As you can see, the motor was oriented with the terminals straight up. I should have realized this earlier, but can I turn the motor 90 degrees to put the terminals on either side? You wouldn't think of this on an ICE, but it seems like an electric motor wouldn't know the difference. It would make the terminals more accessible and buy me some room under the battery pack.

Also, I do not have a lot of clearance under the motor at the sub-frame. Maybe 1" to fit mounting isolators underneath. What are people using out there for isolation? Alternatively, I could do a side mount with the isolator in shear to buy some room under the motor at the sub-frame.

At least the motor, adapter and coupler all fit cleanly together. Along with the stock Volvo clutch and pressure plate.

 

[remy_martian]

Mercedes and others used to put V-config ICE engines "upside down" in fighter planes, so meh...
🤓

Yeah - I'd vote to clock the motor over to that pesky steering shaft side if you have the voltage clearance. Not much can go in that space, anyway and you have that LxWxh volume effect for the batt box even if you pick up just a few mm of h.

What do you need room under the motor for? Rust doesn't swell up that much.

 

[jclars]

That makes good sense to locate it on the LH side although I was thinking of having the controller close at hand. Lots more mock up to do I guess. Every step of the way it seems!

I would have liked to locate isolators more under the motor and not have to build an elaborate hanger/side mount system.

Finally, did the Germans ever win any wars with those planes?

 

[jclars]

"... if you have the voltage clearance."

Is there a minimum clearance to maintain?

I know there are lots of rules concerning clearances to electrical in building construction. I haven't taken out a permit for this work, so no inspections anyway...

 

[remy_martian]

No permit means you can now cover it 😛