Hey @jclars thanks for taking the time to post this stuff. Can you expand a little on what this KSI change is doing? I'm interested to know if it might apply in my situation. What behavior on the MCU changes here? Thanks.
1961 Volvo PV 544 to EV 544 - Build Thread
Hello All!
I pondered what to do to this car for over 1 year since driving it home. Yes, it was the first project car I had not needed a trailer for! I have travelled as far as Southern Cal. to pickup other projects with a trailer in tow. Never one only 15 miles from home! And so cheap ($2500) for a running vintage car!
Because the starting point was so favorable, it was tempting to simply do a stock restoration. But then I started digging and found the engine and tranny were not original, coming from a newer Volvo. I felt like it opened the door for a restomod. I am soon 72 years old and have always enjoyed a challenge. My last build was a traditional hot rod which included at totally fabricated frame and flat head V8. Parts were either already in my shop or sourced from multiple swap meets and online sales The various parts spanned years 1928 to 1962 in vintage. I also upgraded a 1958 MGA Coupe to a 2000 Miata drive train. I have done a 1956 F100 PU with a 90's era drivetrain from a T-bird SuperCoupe. This past May I drove Rte. 66 in it. 6000 miles round trip. So major technology jumps with previous projects has been accomplished. And I drive the things! But ICE to EV??? Before last year I didn't even know what those acronyms stood for!
I reviewed the topics I was to cover with my first post, and I can see the logic to determine where everyone enters this EV game. So I can fabricate, I can visualize, I can drive. But this EV thing was a bit intimidating. Then I took a ride in a modern EV and got sucked in! With your help, I hope to make this car an almost daily driver. I am planning for 80 - 100 mile range. I also want to approach this incrementally, both for affordability, but also because I like to mock up restomods to present a car look like it could have come from the factory that way. I have become adept at doing this, but it has always been by trial and error with lots of cardboard and wood mock-ups. I have fabricated things multiple times to get it looking right (as well as for structural integrity!).
I hope I can present this EV conversion similar to my other less radical projects. I want the motor with controller to take center stage, so no battery box on top of it, even though there is a lot of room under the bulbous hood. Likewise, I doubled the HP and Torque on that MGA mentioned above, and it suddenly became a fun (not to mention dependable) sports car! While I will only have a marginal HP jump in my chosen EV gear, I am pretty sure the torque value and dependability factors will be satisfying enough!
That all said, I have been working with EVWest to gain a system understanding and with a local Electrical shop that has dabbled in EV development for the last 10 years. EVWest had done a Volvo P1800 several years ago and just this past week we were able to confirm a match to my Volvo bellhousing and flywheel. So I have the adapter/coupler on order with them. I also have a Hyper 9 HV motor system with chill plate and front motor mount on order with the local shop. Saved much on freight by finding a local source for that! I have other components pre-selected from both EVW and locally, but again will use these first major pieces to anchor the mock-up stage. So because the adapter is a long lead item, I will probably be doing more restoration type stuff in the interim, so bear with me.
I attach pix of the car, the voluminous engine bay and similar trunk. I do plan to put at least some battery packs in the rear where the gas tank came from. However only 100-120 lbs or so to help keep within original weight trim. Which I think will be okay, with so much room in front. But again, I want to showcase the motor. Not the battery packs.
Looking forward to hearing comments from this valued knowledge base in the months ahead!
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John Larsen
Lynden, WA
USA
I pondered what to do to this car for over 1 year since driving it home. Yes, it was the first project car I had not needed a trailer for! I have travelled as far as Southern Cal. to pickup other projects with a trailer in tow. Never one only 15 miles from home! And so cheap ($2500) for a running vintage car!
Because the starting point was so favorable, it was tempting to simply do a stock restoration. But then I started digging and found the engine and tranny were not original, coming from a newer Volvo. I felt like it opened the door for a restomod. I am soon 72 years old and have always enjoyed a challenge. My last build was a traditional hot rod which included at totally fabricated frame and flat head V8. Parts were either already in my shop or sourced from multiple swap meets and online sales The various parts spanned years 1928 to 1962 in vintage. I also upgraded a 1958 MGA Coupe to a 2000 Miata drive train. I have done a 1956 F100 PU with a 90's era drivetrain from a T-bird SuperCoupe. This past May I drove Rte. 66 in it. 6000 miles round trip. So major technology jumps with previous projects has been accomplished. And I drive the things! But ICE to EV??? Before last year I didn't even know what those acronyms stood for!
I reviewed the topics I was to cover with my first post, and I can see the logic to determine where everyone enters this EV game. So I can fabricate, I can visualize, I can drive. But this EV thing was a bit intimidating. Then I took a ride in a modern EV and got sucked in! With your help, I hope to make this car an almost daily driver. I am planning for 80 - 100 mile range. I also want to approach this incrementally, both for affordability, but also because I like to mock up restomods to present a car look like it could have come from the factory that way. I have become adept at doing this, but it has always been by trial and error with lots of cardboard and wood mock-ups. I have fabricated things multiple times to get it looking right (as well as for structural integrity!).
I hope I can present this EV conversion similar to my other less radical projects. I want the motor with controller to take center stage, so no battery box on top of it, even though there is a lot of room under the bulbous hood. Likewise, I doubled the HP and Torque on that MGA mentioned above, and it suddenly became a fun (not to mention dependable) sports car! While I will only have a marginal HP jump in my chosen EV gear, I am pretty sure the torque value and dependability factors will be satisfying enough!
That all said, I have been working with EVWest to gain a system understanding and with a local Electrical shop that has dabbled in EV development for the last 10 years. EVWest had done a Volvo P1800 several years ago and just this past week we were able to confirm a match to my Volvo bellhousing and flywheel. So I have the adapter/coupler on order with them. I also have a Hyper 9 HV motor system with chill plate and front motor mount on order with the local shop. Saved much on freight by finding a local source for that! I have other components pre-selected from both EVW and locally, but again will use these first major pieces to anchor the mock-up stage. So because the adapter is a long lead item, I will probably be doing more restoration type stuff in the interim, so bear with me.
I attach pix of the car, the voluminous engine bay and similar trunk. I do plan to put at least some battery packs in the rear where the gas tank came from. However only 100-120 lbs or so to help keep within original weight trim. Which I think will be okay, with so much room in front. But again, I want to showcase the motor. Not the battery packs.
Looking forward to hearing comments from this valued knowledge base in the months ahead!
John Larsen
Lynden, WA
USA
161 - 180 of 187 Posts
Remy was referring to an (electronic) Hall Effect throttle (assembly) (like most OEM EV's use)
...& just trying to "relay" that Pot box(es) are kinda antiquated & have drawbacks
...kinda like Points Ignition's & Tube TV's
Just an FYI:
Here is an "aftermarket" version, that I have used before (on my Mini-Slingshot)
Foot Pedal Drive By Wire With 5 Volt DC Hall Effect Position Sensor No Connector | Motor Speed Controllers | DC Motors | Electric Motors | www.surpluscenter.com
Originally made for use in RAVEN brand electric mowers.
Hall effect pedal position sensor outputs a 0-5 VDC signal based on pedal position; 5 VDC output when pedal fully depressed. Hall effect sensor can be removed revealing a 0.10" thick x 0.32" wide male tang that rotates up to 55 degrees as the pedal moves.
Three wire leads. (red 5V (+), black neg (-), other (0-5V signal)
Your welcome.
FYI:
Another option would be to use the vehicles stock "gas" pedal
...& run its cable to a Thumb Throttle (~$10.00) (same Hall Effect type throttle as the pedal I posted earlier)
7/8" 24/36/48V Thumb Throttle Speed Control E-Bike Electric Bike Scooter 3 Wires | eBay
This could help your EV maintain the stock look
...& with the "right" return spring
...the stock feel too
I use one to control my ElMoto
...via the bikes stock twist throttle
Here is an old video (~5 yrs) showing the instillation & actuation of the thumb throttle on my bike
FYI:
Another option would be to use the vehicles stock "gas" pedal
...& run its cable to a Thumb Throttle (~$10.00) (same Hall Effect type throttle as the pedal I posted earlier)
7/8" 24/36/48V Thumb Throttle Speed Control E-Bike Electric Bike Scooter 3 Wires | eBay
This could help your EV maintain the stock look
...& with the "right" return spring
...the stock feel too
I use one to control my ElMoto
...via the bikes stock twist throttle
Here is an old video (~5 yrs) showing the instillation & actuation of the thumb throttle on my bike
Yup! No problem! Teamwork!
Here is my Mini-Slingshot, controlled by the electronic throttle pedal, "in action"
The other kart is called the Land Speeder
...& each of its motors is controlled by its own (independent) thumb throttle
Here is my Mini-Slingshot, controlled by the electronic throttle pedal, "in action"
The other kart is called the Land Speeder
...& each of its motors is controlled by its own (independent) thumb throttle
Thought the referenced E-Pedal would be light duty, as you mentioned it was from a lawn mower. Not the case, I am happy to report! In fact double springs make it at least similar to my stock pedal action, so I may dump that firewall location all together!
However, I am concerned about a trace of rust on the retaining washer. It must have seen some moisture at one time. Is there a way to test it's function at 5V on the bench? How do I get the voltage down to that level?
Thanks again for the tip!
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However, I am concerned about a trace of rust on the retaining washer. It must have seen some moisture at one time. Is there a way to test it's function at 5V on the bench? How do I get the voltage down to that level?
Thanks again for the tip!
E-pedal tested out fine at 0.00 to 4.75 with fresh AAA battery pack.
I spent two days last weekend wandering the Portland swap meet. Great for hot rod parts, not so great for EV's. Or foreign cars for that matter. However, I found a pile of fuses and dug through it to find these. They are Shamut ATMR30. 600V. I was thinking this would be suitable for some of my charging system. However, I discovered they are fast acting type.
Do I want time delay type?
It was a low risk purchase at only $1.
![Font Gas Handwriting Electric blue Logo]()
I spent two days last weekend wandering the Portland swap meet. Great for hot rod parts, not so great for EV's. Or foreign cars for that matter. However, I found a pile of fuses and dug through it to find these. They are Shamut ATMR30. 600V. I was thinking this would be suitable for some of my charging system. However, I discovered they are fast acting type.
Do I want time delay type?
It was a low risk purchase at only $1.
161 - 180 of 187 Posts
