That Focus subframe is really just one crossmember, with the struts and the front of the powertrain mounted directly to the unibody. You can use this sort of setup, but there would be substantial structural fabrication involved. Most cars don't have a subframe as extensive as the one in the Leaf (which still doesn't include the strut mounts).
1962 Mercury Comet + 2013 Nissan Leaf
I already made a post in the new members introduction section that highlights my previous builds, including an EV classic motorcycle. In that thread I shared that I bought a wrecked 2013 Nissan Leaf.
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Wrecked Leafs like this don't come up for sale very often in my area (Kansas, US) so I bought it. The good: it was made in late 2013 so it has the upgrades over the first gen Leafs, and it has the 6kw charger. The bad: it only has the 24kwh battery and it's a 78% health, which means its really a 18kwh battery pack. And the front sub frame is mangled.
I'll buy a Resolve-EV controller as soon as they're in stock again. I've been waiting patiently all month but the website still says "More stock by end of February".
Then I started hunting for a car to put the Leaf parts into. I'm a fan of classic cars, and station wagons in particular. My brain was telling me to use a retro Mercedes 300TD wagon because the chassis and bodies are well contructed, safe, etc. But my heart was telling me to get something more classic, like a wagon version of a Chevy Nova or Plymouth Fury or Ford Fairlane.
Well I couldn't decide, so I bought both!
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The yellow wagon is a 1980 Mercedes 300TD. It's running and driving pretty good although needs a little work, but it just completed a drive from Los Angeles to Kansas City so it the engine is strong. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with in the long run, I think I'll keep it for a backup EV conversion candidate.
But here's what I'm really excited about.
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This is what I'll be converting. It's a 1962 Mercury Comet. Identical in many ways to a Ford Falcon. It's in great condition, it does have a small, running engine and a three-on-the-tree transmission, but there's no driveshaft currently. I'll need to upgrade the brakes, add seatbelts, give it a paintjob, repair the roof (it's caved in a little), and do a little interior work.
This is a perfect restoration candidate. Ugly but in great condition. All the glass is there and not cracked, including the wrap around rear windows which would be impossible to find I think. All the chrome trim is there and just needs to be polished. The chrome bumpers are perfectly straight. Most of the body is really straight and dent free, only the roof needs repair. And there is not a lot of rust, most of it can be sanded off or treated with POR15.
![Vehicle Car Steering part Motor vehicle Fixture]()
It was last registered in 1975! Lived in California its entire life.
BTW you might be tempted to think that this is a super heavy American gargantu-wagon. But it is a small car, made to compete against the VW Beetle and the Chevy Corvair. The sedan version only weighs 2,600 pounds! I'll try to get this wagon version weighed but it could be around 2,800 pounds.
I want to get it running as-is (with the ICE engine) just to see how it performs, and get it registered. Maybe dress it up like a mini Ghostbusters ectomobile. And then this summer I can start the EV conversion.
Here's the Comet's ICE engine.
![Hood Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Gas]()
170ci (2.8L) inline-six. New carb, new fuel pump, new starter, new exhaust manifold, new battery, new alternator (generator?). I had to add a manual choke cable and replace the starter solenoid, and now it runs pretty well. But I think the clutch is stuck and I can't really get the transmission out of neutral I don't think. There's no driveshaft because the the previous owner tried to install an OD unit to the output of the transmission, and it's all hodge-podged together.
I need to decide how I'm going to convert it to EV. At this point, I have a lot of options. [Update, I'm not doing any of these options lol]
This project is probably going to take a few years. Wish me luck!
Wrecked Leafs like this don't come up for sale very often in my area (Kansas, US) so I bought it. The good: it was made in late 2013 so it has the upgrades over the first gen Leafs, and it has the 6kw charger. The bad: it only has the 24kwh battery and it's a 78% health, which means its really a 18kwh battery pack. And the front sub frame is mangled.
I'll buy a Resolve-EV controller as soon as they're in stock again. I've been waiting patiently all month but the website still says "More stock by end of February".
Then I started hunting for a car to put the Leaf parts into. I'm a fan of classic cars, and station wagons in particular. My brain was telling me to use a retro Mercedes 300TD wagon because the chassis and bodies are well contructed, safe, etc. But my heart was telling me to get something more classic, like a wagon version of a Chevy Nova or Plymouth Fury or Ford Fairlane.
Well I couldn't decide, so I bought both!
The yellow wagon is a 1980 Mercedes 300TD. It's running and driving pretty good although needs a little work, but it just completed a drive from Los Angeles to Kansas City so it the engine is strong. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with in the long run, I think I'll keep it for a backup EV conversion candidate.
But here's what I'm really excited about.
This is what I'll be converting. It's a 1962 Mercury Comet. Identical in many ways to a Ford Falcon. It's in great condition, it does have a small, running engine and a three-on-the-tree transmission, but there's no driveshaft currently. I'll need to upgrade the brakes, add seatbelts, give it a paintjob, repair the roof (it's caved in a little), and do a little interior work.
This is a perfect restoration candidate. Ugly but in great condition. All the glass is there and not cracked, including the wrap around rear windows which would be impossible to find I think. All the chrome trim is there and just needs to be polished. The chrome bumpers are perfectly straight. Most of the body is really straight and dent free, only the roof needs repair. And there is not a lot of rust, most of it can be sanded off or treated with POR15.
It was last registered in 1975! Lived in California its entire life.
BTW you might be tempted to think that this is a super heavy American gargantu-wagon. But it is a small car, made to compete against the VW Beetle and the Chevy Corvair. The sedan version only weighs 2,600 pounds! I'll try to get this wagon version weighed but it could be around 2,800 pounds.
I want to get it running as-is (with the ICE engine) just to see how it performs, and get it registered. Maybe dress it up like a mini Ghostbusters ectomobile. And then this summer I can start the EV conversion.
Here's the Comet's ICE engine.
170ci (2.8L) inline-six. New carb, new fuel pump, new starter, new exhaust manifold, new battery, new alternator (generator?). I had to add a manual choke cable and replace the starter solenoid, and now it runs pretty well. But I think the clutch is stuck and I can't really get the transmission out of neutral I don't think. There's no driveshaft because the the previous owner tried to install an OD unit to the output of the transmission, and it's all hodge-podged together.
I need to decide how I'm going to convert it to EV. At this point, I have a lot of options. [Update, I'm not doing any of these options lol]
- traditional EV conversion: mount the Leaf motor to the old manual transmission via a coupler and adapter plate. Put the batteries behind the rear seat and add a leaf to the leaf spring pack to handle the extra weight.
- I can buy the adapter plate but it would be really expensive, or I can make my own using SendCutSend but there's the possibility of errors
- for the coupler, I really don't understand the concept. Why do some people use carrier bearings?
- If the trans I have now is no good (possible) then I'll need to find another one.
- and I would still need to upgrade the brakes and handling ($1000 to $2000).
- Building/modifying an independent rear suspension (IRS) and mounting the Leaf motor+gearbox to it, with custom CV shafts to the rear wheels. Fill the engine bay with batteries.
- might save a lot of money and weight, and might not be more work then making adapter plates and couplers
- the Comet is pretty small, same size as a Falcon or Mustang, so not a lot will fit. Certainly not a Crown Vic subframe.
- might be able to use a Miata rear subframe, it's the right width, but the Leaf motor may not fit in there, and the Miata suspension will need to be upgraded for the extra weight
- I could also swap in the front Miata subframe while I'm at it, and get brake and steering upgrades.
- might be able to use a Benz w123 rear subframe, but will need to modify it to be 2" more narrow and also will have to run the Leaf motor+gearbox in reverse!
- Someone did this with a w123 subframe and a Tesla motor. I've also seen a tesla subframe get narrowed. So it might be possible.
- This was my plan when I thought I was going to convert the Mercedes 300TD. And I love how the suspension feels on that vehicle.
- Running the Leaf motor+gearbox in reverse is possible but if the bearings are unsealed then not advisable.
- wheel bolt pattern could be an issue
- convert the Comet to FWD. Similar to the previous idea but will need to find a FWD sub frame.
- might be able to use a subframe from a Ford Focus or something, but modified to be a few inches narrower.
- The Leaf's front subframe is too wide, and the one I have is too banged up after the wreck. Could be straightened maybe, IDK.
- This honestly seems like a better idea than putting the motor in the rear, will be easier to fit.
- Mount the Leaf motor+gearbox at 90°, such that one CV shaft attaches the the driveshaft, and fix the other CV shaft so that it can't spin. No, wait, this won't work because the rear axle adds more gear reduction.
This project is probably going to take a few years. Wish me luck!
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That's really helpful to see, thank you! I wish they had more photo though. But from what I see, they had no problems with enough room. But I would be working with the older style subframes and my mileage may very. Also interesting how they used the old-style Leaf inverter and mounted it upside down.
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I'm getting closer to deciding what I want to do. I think about it a lot and everyday I change my mind, lol. I want to keep it a classic, but I want to be smart about it too.
I don't want to make the same mistake I made last time, when I put a VW body shell onto an entire Miata "chassis" and in the end I wasn't driving a VW Squareback, I was driving a Miata. That wasn't what I really wanted. But on the other hand, I was using the Miata dashboard, steering wheel, seats, engine, etc. So of course if felt like driving a Miata. The suspension wasn't the problem, the suspension was great!
I might be able to avoid welding to the original framerails by doing something like this:
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This is a first-gen Mustang that somebody adapted a Jaguar IRS to. He made auxiliary frame railes that bolt to the leaf spring attachment points, then the crossmember attaches to the new framerails. And then the Juaguar IRS attaches to the crossmember.
While I still had a Miata in my driveway, I took these measurements of the rear subframe:
I'm getting closer to deciding what I want to do. I think about it a lot and everyday I change my mind, lol. I want to keep it a classic, but I want to be smart about it too.
I don't want to make the same mistake I made last time, when I put a VW body shell onto an entire Miata "chassis" and in the end I wasn't driving a VW Squareback, I was driving a Miata. That wasn't what I really wanted. But on the other hand, I was using the Miata dashboard, steering wheel, seats, engine, etc. So of course if felt like driving a Miata. The suspension wasn't the problem, the suspension was great!
I might be able to avoid welding to the original framerails by doing something like this:
This is a first-gen Mustang that somebody adapted a Jaguar IRS to. He made auxiliary frame railes that bolt to the leaf spring attachment points, then the crossmember attaches to the new framerails. And then the Juaguar IRS attaches to the crossmember.
While I still had a Miata in my driveway, I took these measurements of the rear subframe:
- frame rails are 33” wide (comet’s is 40” wide)
- where the subframe bolts too
- sitting 19” off the ground with 23.5" size tires
- front-to-back distance of frame bolts: 15"
- distance between strut mounts: 39"
- so this could either clash with the Comet frame rails, or work out perfectly in my favor because the spring perches could be welded to the Comet frame rails
- distance from ground to strut mounts: 22”
- loaded shock/strut height: 14”
- approximate distance between LCA bushings: 17"
- this is where there could be a problem fitting the Leaf motor
- overall width from tire to tire: 63" (Comet is 61")
- mind you that is with high offset rims on the Miata and "normal" offset rims on the Comet. So that sucks. And the Miata has a 4x100 bolt pattern which is also not ideal.
Well I've already changed my mind. I woke up this morning feeling encouraged and ready to buy a Miata parts car for the subframe parts.
But I would need a NA or NB miata, because they're slightly more narrow, and not a newer miata very similar to the RX8 like the orange subframe in the above post. Well I did some very crude... rendering?... and as I suspected, the Leaf motor will not fit between the lower control arm pivot points.
[Note: this is NOT an accurate drawing]
I think there's about 17" of space, even after cutting off the tabs for the braces, and I'm measuring my Leaf motor to be 18" wide. (You needed to draw a rendering to see that a 18" object could not fit into a 17" space? Yes, apparently I did.)
But that's ok! Because I found this thread, yes it appears I'm not the only one thinking that there must be a better way to put a Leaf motor+gearbox into a solid-axle RWD car. Rear subframe conversion ruminations
Well this has just opened up a whole new world for me.
First up, a 90's 240sx or 300zx subframe might be a better choice. It would be too wide for me but look how roomy it is, I bet I could chop it to the width I need and still fit the leaf motor. And the Nissan bolt pattern is just what I need too.
HOWEVER! There might be an even better idea!
The fine folks of the internet, this forum included, has informed of the concept of the De Dion Tube. Basically its like a live axle but with CV axles on the outside instead of the inside. This is what Ford used for the 2000 Ranger EV.
Here's an example from "some crazy guy in Australia" reportandly [edit: no, its actually from an EV West engineer here in the states].
I'm going to need a lot more information and to see the hubs, but this could be just perfect.
Nicely doneI might be able to avoid welding to the original framerails by doing something like this:
![]()
This is a first-gen Mustang that somebody adapted a Jaguar IRS to. He made auxiliary frame railes that bolt to the leaf spring attachment points, then the crossmember attaches to the new framerails. And then the Juaguar IRS attaches to the crossmember.
although the choice to use shackles rather than rigid brackets at the rear is interesting.The auxiliary frame rails plus crossmember are a subframe, custom made and designed for the Mustang body and Jaguar IRS combination.
Both the crazy Australian setup and the Ranger have leaf springs, which is actually uncommon for a deDion but is a reasonable choice for a vehicle that started with leaf springs and a live beam axle.The fine folks of the internet, this forum included, has informed of the concept of the De Dion Tube. Basically its like a live axle but with CV axles on the outside instead of the inside. This is what Ford used for the 2000 Ranger EV.
Here's an example from "some crazy guy in Australia".
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I'm going to need a lot more information but this could be just perfect.
I found the video that explains everything I need to know for the De Dion axle. Looks like it was made from a EV West engineer.
So I will probably just copy this the best I can. But there's a lot of time between now and when I actually get started on this, so I'll probably change my mind at least 10 times by then.
So I will probably just copy this the best I can. But there's a lot of time between now and when I actually get started on this, so I'll probably change my mind at least 10 times by then.
I know, right !?brian_ said:Nicely done
The auxiliary frame rails plus crossmember are a subframe, custom made and designed for the Mustang body and Jaguar IRS combination.
Good to point out. I wasn't really keeping track of that dimension because it didn't seem to matter to me in this case.
I'm still figuring it all out but at this point, yes I plan on using the Leaf hubs and axles, but the axles will need to be shortened. On the Leaf, the distance from hub surface to hub surface is 7" longer than on the Comet.
Here's another De Dion tube inspiration photo:
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Bumper]()
Here's a Volvo 360 de dion tube:
![Wood Snake Metal Tail Terrestrial animal]()
Here's an interesting idea (I have plenty of those, not all of them are good) - use the rear twist beam axle off the Leaf. Chop it to the rite width. I'll have to measure but the front hubs may fit perfectly in those holes on the hub mounting surface.
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Just looking at it, it would give a lowering effect to the Comet if I use the Leaf Springs. Or I could attempt to use the Leaf's coil springs with some custom locating links, but that feels like much more of a guessing game as for what spring rate I would need and what to do about shock absorbers. A little more engineering involved. But maybe!
=====================
As for what I have ACTUALLY done for this project other than day dream about suspension setups...
Nothing. No work at all. I haven't even started taking parts off the Nissan. The only work I've done is actually in the wrong direction, lol, I've been working on getting the ICE engine running. I just needed to add a new starter solenoid and add a choke cable, now it runs well I think, and I've started monkeying with the driveshaft and radiator. Going to try to back it out of the driveway by next weekend, hopefully the clutch and transmission work and I don't drive through the garage wall.
Here's another De Dion tube inspiration photo:
Here's a Volvo 360 de dion tube:
Here's an interesting idea (I have plenty of those, not all of them are good) - use the rear twist beam axle off the Leaf. Chop it to the rite width. I'll have to measure but the front hubs may fit perfectly in those holes on the hub mounting surface.
Just looking at it, it would give a lowering effect to the Comet if I use the Leaf Springs. Or I could attempt to use the Leaf's coil springs with some custom locating links, but that feels like much more of a guessing game as for what spring rate I would need and what to do about shock absorbers. A little more engineering involved. But maybe!
=====================
As for what I have ACTUALLY done for this project other than day dream about suspension setups...
Nothing. No work at all. I haven't even started taking parts off the Nissan. The only work I've done is actually in the wrong direction, lol, I've been working on getting the ICE engine running. I just needed to add a new starter solenoid and add a choke cable, now it runs well I think, and I've started monkeying with the driveshaft and radiator. Going to try to back it out of the driveway by next weekend, hopefully the clutch and transmission work and I don't drive through the garage wall.
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