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1962 Mercury Comet + 2013 Nissan Leaf

4910 Views 60 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  olegil
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I already made a post in the new members introduction section that highlights my previous builds, including an EV classic motorcycle. In that thread I shared that I bought a wrecked 2013 Nissan Leaf.



Wrecked Leafs like this don't come up for sale very often in my area (Kansas, US) so I bought it. The good: it was made in late 2013 so it has the upgrades over the first gen Leafs, and it has the 6kw charger. The bad: it only has the 24kwh battery and it's a 78% health, which means its really a 18kwh battery pack. And the front sub frame is mangled.

I'll buy a Resolve-EV controller as soon as they're in stock again. I've been waiting patiently all month but the website still says "More stock by end of February".

Then I started hunting for a car to put the Leaf parts into. I'm a fan of classic cars, and station wagons in particular. My brain was telling me to use a retro Mercedes 300TD wagon because the chassis and bodies are well contructed, safe, etc. But my heart was telling me to get something more classic, like a wagon version of a Chevy Nova or Plymouth Fury or Ford Fairlane.

Well I couldn't decide, so I bought both!



The yellow wagon is a 1980 Mercedes 300TD. It's running and driving pretty good although needs a little work, but it just completed a drive from Los Angeles to Kansas City so it the engine is strong. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with in the long run, I think I'll keep it for a backup EV conversion candidate.

But here's what I'm really excited about.


This is what I'll be converting. It's a 1962 Mercury Comet. Identical in many ways to a Ford Falcon. It's in great condition, it does have a small, running engine and a three-on-the-tree transmission, but there's no driveshaft currently. I'll need to upgrade the brakes, add seatbelts, give it a paintjob, repair the roof (it's caved in a little), and do a little interior work.

This is a perfect restoration candidate. Ugly but in great condition. All the glass is there and not cracked, including the wrap around rear windows which would be impossible to find I think. All the chrome trim is there and just needs to be polished. The chrome bumpers are perfectly straight. Most of the body is really straight and dent free, only the roof needs repair. And there is not a lot of rust, most of it can be sanded off or treated with POR15.
Vehicle Car Steering part Motor vehicle Fixture

It was last registered in 1975! Lived in California its entire life.

BTW you might be tempted to think that this is a super heavy American gargantu-wagon. But it is a small car, made to compete against the VW Beetle and the Chevy Corvair. The sedan version only weighs 2,600 pounds! I'll try to get this wagon version weighed but it could be around 2,800 pounds.

I want to get it running as-is (with the ICE engine) just to see how it performs, and get it registered. Maybe dress it up like a mini Ghostbusters ectomobile. And then this summer I can start the EV conversion.

Here's the Comet's ICE engine.

Hood Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Gas


170ci (2.8L) inline-six. New carb, new fuel pump, new starter, new exhaust manifold, new battery, new alternator (generator?). I had to add a manual choke cable and replace the starter solenoid, and now it runs pretty well. But I think the clutch is stuck and I can't really get the transmission out of neutral I don't think. There's no driveshaft because the the previous owner tried to install an OD unit to the output of the transmission, and it's all hodge-podged together.

I need to decide how I'm going to convert it to EV. At this point, I have a lot of options. [Update, I'm not doing any of these options lol]
  • traditional EV conversion: mount the Leaf motor to the old manual transmission via a coupler and adapter plate. Put the batteries behind the rear seat and add a leaf to the leaf spring pack to handle the extra weight.
    • I can buy the adapter plate but it would be really expensive, or I can make my own using SendCutSend but there's the possibility of errors
    • for the coupler, I really don't understand the concept. Why do some people use carrier bearings?
    • If the trans I have now is no good (possible) then I'll need to find another one.
    • and I would still need to upgrade the brakes and handling ($1000 to $2000).
  • Building/modifying an independent rear suspension (IRS) and mounting the Leaf motor+gearbox to it, with custom CV shafts to the rear wheels. Fill the engine bay with batteries.
    • might save a lot of money and weight, and might not be more work then making adapter plates and couplers
    • the Comet is pretty small, same size as a Falcon or Mustang, so not a lot will fit. Certainly not a Crown Vic subframe.
    • might be able to use a Miata rear subframe, it's the right width, but the Leaf motor may not fit in there, and the Miata suspension will need to be upgraded for the extra weight
      • I could also swap in the front Miata subframe while I'm at it, and get brake and steering upgrades.
    • might be able to use a Benz w123 rear subframe, but will need to modify it to be 2" more narrow and also will have to run the Leaf motor+gearbox in reverse!
      • Someone did this with a w123 subframe and a Tesla motor. I've also seen a tesla subframe get narrowed. So it might be possible.
      • This was my plan when I thought I was going to convert the Mercedes 300TD. And I love how the suspension feels on that vehicle.
      • Running the Leaf motor+gearbox in reverse is possible but if the bearings are unsealed then not advisable.
    • wheel bolt pattern could be an issue
  • convert the Comet to FWD. Similar to the previous idea but will need to find a FWD sub frame.
    • might be able to use a subframe from a Ford Focus or something, but modified to be a few inches narrower.
    • The Leaf's front subframe is too wide, and the one I have is too banged up after the wreck. Could be straightened maybe, IDK.
    • This honestly seems like a better idea than putting the motor in the rear, will be easier to fit.
  • Mount the Leaf motor+gearbox at 90°, such that one CV shaft attaches the the driveshaft, and fix the other CV shaft so that it can't spin. No, wait, this won't work because the rear axle adds more gear reduction.
My goals are to have a daily driver classic car that is also EV, and big enough for the whole family. After the conversion, I'll probably want to upgrade to a 40kwh battery pack if I can find one. Speed is not something that really excites me like it does some people, but if I can do a burnout then that would be cool I guess.

This project is probably going to take a few years. Wish me luck!
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Remy that is an interesting idea and it would work, if the change in width was only a little bit! But the change in width I'm dealing with is over half a foot. Might as well be a mile long.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but the difference in track width is not 7 inches. So you're not measuring the same thing. You'll need to take into account the rim offset as well.
Yeah you're right. All I did was use a tape measure to measure the from outide tire to ouside tire on the Leaf (68") and did the same on the Comet (61") and got the difference, 7". So that is not the same and hub-to-hub distance, when there is a difference in wheel offset on the two cars.

And that makes the difference in width even greater!
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Apparently this thread is already on page 2, yet I'm still only planning things and have barely touched the car itself.

But I'm starting to have a pretty good idea about how everything is going to fit together.
  • Resolve-ev controller (still out of stock, website still says it will be in stock by end of February. It's now March 2nd)
  • gps mechanical drive speed converter from Speedhut, to spin the speedometer cable
  • battery pack in the engine bay (battery bay?) in a custom steel enclosure
  • motor, inverter and charger will all be in the rear.
    • inverter and charger can go where the gas tank used to be
    • possibly fit a small radiator and water pump back there too..?
    • or just send some tubes to the front via driveshaft tunnel
  • de dion axle, diy
    • use the front hubs from the Leaf
    • rear brakes from the Leaf, including manually operated parking brake. Edit: using rear brakes from a Honda Accord
    • could keep the leaf spring suspension, or fab up coil springs. Could possibly use the coils from the Leaf, but this car should weigh several hundred pounds less than the Leaf.
  • new steel wheels and hub caps from Jegs, 15x7. The 5x4.5 bolt pattern is the same on the Leaf hubs as it is on the Comet's front spindles. (or at least it will be after I upgrade the spindles for disc brakes)
  • iBooster brake assist, will need to buy one
  • keep it manual steering
  • use the electric power steering pump from the leaf
  • upgrades to the front end
    • disc brakes, shocks, roller spring perches, strut rods, etc.
    • if the steering gearbox is completely worn out then maybe I'll adapt a manual steering rack & pinion
  • electric air-con compressor from the Nissan
  • high-voltage heater core from the Nissan
  • throttle pedal from the Nissan
Cost estimates (just for the conversion, not including restoration costs, front end upgrades, or the price of the Mercury):

$3,500 - wrecked 2013 Leaf
$900 - Resolve-EV controller
$400 - CV axle shortening service (I'm guessing, I could also DIY this, maybe)
$60 - steel tube (I'm guessing)
$350 - Speedhut Speedbox
$500 - rims & hubcaps
$350 - tires
$200 - small radiator, electric fan, water pump, hoses
$100 - ac condenser
$150 - ibooster
$150 - honda accord rear brakes

Total: $6,660

That's pretty good!! Of course the real total for the entire project - including the price of the car, shipping it, painting it, repairing this and that, and replacing the front end parts - will be well north of $10,000. Probably closer to $15,000. But that's still pretty cheap.

The only downside is the battery pack's capacity is very small. It's the 24kwh pack, but already at 78% SoH. So 18kwh. One day I may want to replace it with a 36kwh or 40kwh Leaf pack so that I can actually get places on the highway, not just in town. If I don't use the Resolve-EV controller then I would have more options, but I would need to supply my own BMS and there is no cheap solution for that right now that I know of.
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Not sure about your rear brakes from a Leaf idea. I understand why.

In the back, you want the front brakes to go with the front hubs on the Dedion axle, don't you? Overkill in braking capacity, but the rotors/drums have to fit the hubs and you're trying to fit a rolling hub's accessories to a driven one.

A detail to look into.
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The front Leaf calipers bolt to the knuckle/spindle. However the rear calipers bolt to a plate that is sandwiched between the hub and the twist beam rear axle. I made the assumption that the rear hubs and the front hubs had the same hole pattern for the bolts that fasten the front hub to the steering knuckle and the rear hub to the rear axle structure. If not then I could make a simple laser cut part that fixes that. I was going to take all the hubs and brakes off the Leaf today so I could know for sure, but I didn't get to it.

Is there another problem I'm overlooking?

Also, the front Leaf brakes use massive double piston calipers. Bigger brakes is rarely a bad thing, but I don't think they would be appropriate for rear brakes. Or maybe it's not a problem, maybe it would be a good thing, I don't know.
You can buy a manually adjustable brake proportioning valve at your favorite speed shop to take care of massive disks in the back.

The park brake becomes an issue at that point...
mannydantyla: some very interesting ideas in your thread. I also bought an old Leaf, but mine is a 2011, government crash test vehicle, hit drivers side. No battery. I'm bidding on a Leaf, same color, that has minor rear damage, that I can fix with the rear parts from my first Leaf, and just drive it as a cheap car for running errands around town.

The DeDion axle idea seems to make a lot of sense, and I'm also trying to wrap my head around the suggestion Duncan made about using the front Leaf cradle, and putting it in the rear. That would work great for using parts off my first Leaf, because the front is 100% intact and undamaged.

I get down to KC a couple times a year on business. If you are open to a visit, I would enjoy discussing projects with you. Similar to your situation, I have a couple cars that could be good candidates for a swap, but deciding is the hardest part in some ways, but also a lot of fun.
The front Leaf calipers bolt to the knuckle/spindle. However the rear calipers bolt to a plate that is sandwiched between the hub and the twist beam rear axle. I made the assumption that the rear hubs and the front hubs had the same hole pattern for the bolts that fasten the front hub to the steering knuckle and the rear hub to the rear axle structure. If not then I could make a simple laser cut part that fixes that. I was going to take all the hubs and brakes off the Leaf today so I could know for sure, but I didn't get to it.

Is there another problem I'm overlooking?

Also, the front Leaf brakes use massive double piston calipers. Bigger brakes is rarely a bad thing, but I don't think they would be appropriate for rear brakes. Or maybe it's not a problem, maybe it would be a good thing, I don't know.
I would think you'll want the rear brakes in the rear, but I don't see why you wouldn't be able to make that fit with an adapter.
Because the hub has a splined shaft and nut in it that may use a different drum/caliper.
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Because the hub has a splined shaft and nut in it that may use a different drum/caliper.
I know that, but it doesn't quite make it logical to have LARGER inner diameter of the discs in the back.
Obviously same center hole and bolt circle, but inner diameter of the rear discs are larger (dimension F) below.
Rear:

Font Rectangle Parallel Circle Rim


Front:

Automotive tire Font Parallel Circle Rectangle


Front hub:
Font Parallel Rectangle Slope Circle


The way I see it, there's nothing stopping one from putting a rear disc on a front hub, IF one can adapt the caliper carrier mounts, or use a different carrier. Here's the adapter plate in the rear originally:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Auto part Nut
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View attachment 135823
I think there's about 17" of space, even after cutting off the tabs for the braces, and I'm measuring my Leaf motor to be 18" wide.
Is there a compelling reason to keep the Leaf motor level? You could tilt it so that it cleared the lowers, and the only thing you'd really lose would be the easy measurement of how much fluid is in the reduction gear.
I made the assumption that the rear hubs and the front hubs had the same hole pattern for the bolts that fasten the front hub to the steering knuckle and the rear hub to the rear axle structure.
While that's possible, it's not safe to assume, and I don't think it's even likely for cars in general. On the other hand, this is true in a Tesla Model 3; it might be in any vehicle using bolt-in hub-bearing-carrier units at both front and rear... whether it is FWD, RWD, or AWD.

If not then I could make a simple laser cut part that fixes that.
A custom-fabricated de Dion beam can have whatever bracketing is needed on the ends to accept the front hub units... if they are bolt-on. At least - according to olegil's post - the front unit is bolt-on (many front hubs are not). But if a suspension arm or beam and bearing carrier don't match a simple adapter is unlikely to work properly.

I was going to take all the hubs and brakes off the Leaf today so I could know for sure, but I didn't get to it.
That's obviously the answer, but online parts listing can be handy for those without the parts at hand. For instance, olegil's part listing shows the front hub unit.

From Advance Auto Parts (first place I found Leaf bearing units for both front and rear):
front: Moog Part # 513364
rear: Moog Part # 512550
They do look like they probably have the same interface on both the wheel side and the suspension side. :)

Also, the front Leaf brakes use massive double piston calipers. Bigger brakes is rarely a bad thing, but I don't think they would be appropriate for rear brakes. Or maybe it's not a problem, maybe it would be a good thing, I don't know.
Front-rear balance - which is determined by caliper piston area and disk diameter - is certainly a valid technical issue, and a proportioning valve does not fix it.
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The front Leaf calipers bolt to the knuckle/spindle. However the rear calipers bolt to a plate that is sandwiched between the hub and the twist beam rear axle.
This seems like a strange design to me - it's unnecessarily complicated and therefore expensive to manufacture - but the Leaf was available with either drum or disk brakes at the rear. This design allowed the same suspension and hub-bearing-carrier unit to be used with either brake system; the drum setup would have the backing plate sandwiched where the disk version has the caliper bracket sandwiched.
Front-rear balance - which is determined by caliper piston area and disk diameter - is certainly a valid technical issue, and a proportioning valve does not fix it.
Dumb question...

Why not?

Can't you just dial back the pressure on the ass end until it's sufficiently weaker than the front?
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Front/rear balance

If the cylinder/calipers are sized correctly when you brake the amount of stopping that each wheel does is proportional to the weight on that wheel

If you have the wrong weight distribution - and a "proportioning valve"
The as you start to brake the rear wheels have a much larger percentage of the braking loads than their weight - the front wheels have a lower amount of braking
This continues until the proportioning valve stops the rear brakes from braking harder - and all of the additional braking is on the front wheels

For sedate road use that is probably OK
If you do want to drive like a hooligan (or on a track) that is below optimum

I would note that this is all soon to become moot as modern cars like the Teslas have a huge amount of control of the individual wheels
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But this is also true for "sized" brakes without a proportioning valve, isn't it?
But this is also true for "sized" brakes without a proportioning valve, isn't it?
If the brakes are the right "size" front/rear then at the extreme you will lock the front up - just before the rears lock up

Which is the best that we can do - until we get electronics involved
I would need to see the inside of that "proportioning valve" before I would believe that
"A common ratio or brake bias for a proportioning valve is to distribute 60% pressure to the front brakes and 40% pressure to the rear brakes."

It looks to me like a pressure limiting valve!!!
The combo valve also has a metering gizzy, apparently
The combo valve also has a metering gizzy, apparently
Apparently!
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