1964 Honda S600 Motorcycle/Electric hybrid
Howdy,
I have a 1964 Honda S600 that I modified to use a 2007 CBR1000RR motorcycle engine (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsbfzmPCYX4).
I am planning to add an electric motor in parallel with the motorcycle engine.
"But why?"
Five reasons:
1. The car doesn't have reverse, which has become more of a hassle than I expected and I'd like to change that.
2. I'm not a big fan of the driveshaft layout and want to change that anyway.
3. It "needs" about 50 more horsepower in acceleration.
4. I'd like to learn more about electric vehicle powertrains.
5. I like building things, especially odd and slightly overcomplicated things.
After digging around on these forums, other places on the internet, and discussing with friends in the EV industry, I've come up with a rough plan that I'd like to share here to see what you all think I'm doing wrong.
The motorcycle engine is using the integrated motorcycle transmission. For that reason and the sake of simplicity, I'd like to keep the electric motor a direct drive to the driveshaft, 1 speed. My maximum driveshaft RPM is 6500. The motor location I've chosen is in a pretty tightly packed area near the exhaust, so I'm going to use a liquid-cooled motor (and lots of exhaust wrap) to control temperature. The motorcycle engine will be chain driven to a sprocket on the driveshaft, so the emotor will be directly (not clutched or switchable) connected to the vehicle wheels and the motorcycle transmission output.
The plan is to use a DLC-28 style motor with a Sevcon Size 6 controller. Specifically, an EVD35 system from EVDrive/QWC. It will be running 96v at 220amps continuous and 660amps "boost" (10 sec). I may just use the car's heater core for a heat exchanger (there is no ducting and it doesn't have a roof, so it doesn't actually heat the car at all). I need to find the requirements for heat dissipation to see if this works.
I haven't put much thought into the battery yet (ideas are appreciated), but I'm not really looking for electric range. I expect I will just use the minimum amount of batteries that I need to output the current that the motor will use (maybe use capacitors for peak power? Is that a thing people do?). Weight is of some concern, but physical volume is not. I'd like to keep the price down, so if using a degraded, used battery results in 30% more weight but half the price, that would be preferable. Anyway, the battery needs more research.
Thoughts?
![]()
![]()
I have a 1964 Honda S600 that I modified to use a 2007 CBR1000RR motorcycle engine (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsbfzmPCYX4).
I am planning to add an electric motor in parallel with the motorcycle engine.
"But why?"
Five reasons:
1. The car doesn't have reverse, which has become more of a hassle than I expected and I'd like to change that.
2. I'm not a big fan of the driveshaft layout and want to change that anyway.
3. It "needs" about 50 more horsepower in acceleration.
4. I'd like to learn more about electric vehicle powertrains.
5. I like building things, especially odd and slightly overcomplicated things.
After digging around on these forums, other places on the internet, and discussing with friends in the EV industry, I've come up with a rough plan that I'd like to share here to see what you all think I'm doing wrong.
The motorcycle engine is using the integrated motorcycle transmission. For that reason and the sake of simplicity, I'd like to keep the electric motor a direct drive to the driveshaft, 1 speed. My maximum driveshaft RPM is 6500. The motor location I've chosen is in a pretty tightly packed area near the exhaust, so I'm going to use a liquid-cooled motor (and lots of exhaust wrap) to control temperature. The motorcycle engine will be chain driven to a sprocket on the driveshaft, so the emotor will be directly (not clutched or switchable) connected to the vehicle wheels and the motorcycle transmission output.
The plan is to use a DLC-28 style motor with a Sevcon Size 6 controller. Specifically, an EVD35 system from EVDrive/QWC. It will be running 96v at 220amps continuous and 660amps "boost" (10 sec). I may just use the car's heater core for a heat exchanger (there is no ducting and it doesn't have a roof, so it doesn't actually heat the car at all). I need to find the requirements for heat dissipation to see if this works.
I haven't put much thought into the battery yet (ideas are appreciated), but I'm not really looking for electric range. I expect I will just use the minimum amount of batteries that I need to output the current that the motor will use (maybe use capacitors for peak power? Is that a thing people do?). Weight is of some concern, but physical volume is not. I'd like to keep the price down, so if using a degraded, used battery results in 30% more weight but half the price, that would be preferable. Anyway, the battery needs more research.
Thoughts?
2
