DIY Electric Car Forums banner
1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is far from the first Mustang conversion, but this one will be mine! I'm starting to work on projects some more now that I have more time, and I picked up this dumpster fire off of Craigslist for too much money, but I love first gen Mustangs (especially notchbacks) so that's the way it is.

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood


The plan so far is to use a Nissan Leaf motor with a Ford 3.03 3 speed transmission. This is a very similar setup to what I used in my Mercedes, but I'm going to do it better this time. I've learned a lot since starting the Mercedes, so I'm excited to put that all to work here. I have an adapter plate and coupler from @Bratitude, which I think will work better than the one that I designed and made. I'm really not a machinist or a CAD guy, so my work was simply a matter of necessity.

A question at this point is what major components will I use other than the Leaf motor and inverter. I am considering using hardware from Thunderstruck EV, since I've had such good experiences with them in the past. They released a new Master Control Unit (Battery Management Systems :: Master Control Unit) that seems really cool, but I'll need to get a few BMS slaves if I go that route. I'll still need to get a charger and DC-DC converter, as well. If I go with the MCU, I'll use a 2500w TSM charger (or two) and a Volt DC-DC, all of which the MCU can control. That all gets pretty expensive, though.

The other option I'm considering is using a Resolve Controller (Resolve Controller — Resolve-EV). I'll need to pick up a Leaf battery pack and the 2013+ charger+DC-DC unit, but I'll have everything needed to run the car with just that.

I don't like the idea of Leaf batteries, though, so I'm still waffling on that. My MG gets up to 50 miles of range, which isn't much. The Mustang has a lot more room for batteries, so I want to take advantage of that and shoot for 100+ miles of range. The car originally had (and still has one, probably not original) an A code 289 (2 barrel carburetor, v8), but it's pretty far gone... even the freeze plugs are completely rusted through. I'd like to match the original performance, which should be quite easy with the right batteries. I need something dense around 360v.

I also want to do some significant mechanical upgrades on the car itself. It has power brakes and power steering, and I intend to preserve that functionality using an iBooster and an EPAS setup for the Mustang. I've used vacuum pumps and hydroelectric power steering pumps in the past, but I'll be going for a much cleaner setup this time. The car also has factory air conditioning, and I'd be thrilled to reuse the original evaporator and blower inside the cabin with a high voltage AC compressor.

After working so much on the suspension in the MG, I finally built a 4 link with coilovers for it. That had such an incredible impact on the performance of the vehicle and my ability to tune the suspension to handle the batteries that I've pretty much decided to install a 4 link (likely parallel for clearance) in this Mustang, as well. Additionally, I'll probably be getting a narrowed Ford 8.8 axle to allow for a much higher axle ratio with a limited slip. Right now the car has an 8", which has a limited selection. I can get all of the way up to a 5.13:1 gear ratio (or higher, maybe...) with the 8.8, which will match nicely with second gear for the 3.03 transmission that I will be using.

I'll probably update the front suspension while I'm working on all of this so that I can more easily tune it, as well. Lots of people have used a Mustang II IFS in the past in these cars, but it has plenty of issues and is pretty old at this point. I'm going to be looking at other options in that same vein.

So, there's the basket case of a project I'm starting. I have some rust repair to do on the car, which I'll get cranking on when the weather warms up. For now I'm planning and gathering parts as I see deals.

EDIT: The MCU apparently does not include the functionality of the VCU (VCU for UQM Motor). Still, it's a neat package. I have a VCU on hand, so no big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A code 289 is a factory 4 barrel carburetor
I think you're right, thanks :) I got mixed up typing. The engine that's in there now is a 2 barrel, and the C4 that came with the car (but not in it...) is from a Falcon. I don't feel bad about ditching the drive train.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sounds like a candidate for Fords crate e motor and stuff from a current emustang or that hatchback stationwagonish whatever thing they are doing.
Is that motor for sale, yet? I didn't see it on the Ford Performance site.

EDIT: Found it here: ELUMINATOR MACH E ELECTRIC MOTOR. I don't want a transverse setup, though. It's also super expensive with no inverter... I don't think it's a great fit for what I want to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,970 Posts
Sounds like a candidate for Fords crate e motor and stuff from a current emustang or that hatchback stationwagonish whatever thing they are doing.
But Ford doesn't offer a crate electric motor... only the complete front drive from the Mach E "stationwagonish thing" (branded "Eluminator" when sold by Ford Performance), which is useless in this Mustang if any of the original chassis design is kept.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,970 Posts
Found it here: ELUMINATOR MACH E ELECTRIC MOTOR. I don't want a transverse setup, though. It's also super expensive with no inverter... I don't think it's a great fit for what I want to do.
I agree that the this unit is completely unsuitable for a RWD car with a live beam axle... but I'll note that the price seems very reasonable for what it is (motor plus transaxle) for people who want that. Any new electric motor of comparable power will at least as expensive, without any transmission at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I agree that the this unit is completely unsuitable for a RWD car with a live beam axle... but I'll note that the price seems very reasonable for what it is (motor plus transaxle) for people who want that. Any new electric motor of comparable power will at least as expensive, without any transmission at all.
Regarding the price, that's fair. There are suitable used options that make buying new unattractive, but that's not an issue specific to this motor. I sure wouldn't be opposed to a used "ELUMINATOR" motor if it weren't for the whole transverse thing, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
This should be fun. there’s also all the openinverter stuff, zombie vcu (full can control) and replacement board for the leaf inverter.

I’m running a ibooster, instead of adapting the break lines, I made an adapter for my brats original master cylinder. Just a few hours on the lathe.
Black Gas Auto part Machine Machine tool


Also did you order a coupler beforehand? I just sent you an adapter plate only.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This should be fun. there’s also all the openinverter stuff, zombie vcu (full can control) and replacement board for the leaf inverter.

I’m running a ibooster, instead of adapting the break lines, I made an adapter for my brats original master cylinder. Just a few hours on the lathe. View attachment 128096

Also did you order a coupler beforehand? I just sent you an adapter plate only.
I did order the coupler earlier! I like the adapter idea a lot. The problem is that my brother has the lathe, so I have to pin him down to turn the part. I’ll see what the lines are; I don’t mind cutting and flaring some new nuts on. The Mustang also has a single bowl master cylinder with drum brakes, so it has to go regardless. Not only that, but I hate working on drums, and I want to move to discs on all 4 corners…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
I did order the coupler earlier! I like the adapter idea a lot. The problem is that my brother has the lathe, so I have to pin him down to turn the part. I’ll see what the lines are; I don’t mind cutting and flaring some new nuts on. The Mustang also has a single bowl master cylinder with drum brakes, so it has to go regardless. Not only that, but I hate working on drums, and I want to move to discs on all 4 corners…
okay sweet just making sure :)

My ibooster was from a Chevy volt, so the lines where huge and strange size. But the Tesla ones seems to be a m10(?) I think, so should be much easier to adapt lines to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
okay sweet just making sure :)

My ibooster was from a Chevy volt, so the lines where huge and strange size. But the Tesla ones seems to be a m10(?) I think, so should be much easier to adapt lines to.
My booster is out of a Honda Civic, so hopefully the lines are pretty normal. I'll figure that out when it comes in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,970 Posts
Hello: I have done an ev conversion on my 1965 Falcon Sedan Delivery and I get about 100 miles on it.
It looks like this might be the car: John's 1965 Ford Falcon Sedan Delivery
Nice work. :)(y)

Just to clarify a couple of things in the specs... a voltage specification and a typo in the weight:
48 271 Ah, 3.20 Volt, Lithium Iron Phosphate
200 mm wide,172mm high, 72mm thick.
5.8kg
I didn't recognize the cells from these specs, but it looks like these might be CATL prismatics or something very similar. 3.2 V is a typical nominal voltage for LiFePO4 cells, so 48 of them in series would have a nominal voltage of 154 V. All of the rest of the voltage specs (including System Voltage) say "144 V"; the equipment may be nominally rated for 144 V, but the system is operating over a voltage range with the nominal value at 154 V.

Curb Weight30,100 Pounds (13,681 Kilograms)
That's presumably something like just an extra zero, with an actual weight of 3,010 pounds (1,365 kg).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,970 Posts
I can't find the 1964-1965 Falcon Sedan Delivery in my favourite source of classic car specifications, but it looks like the corresponding 2-door wagon (which would be a bit heavier due to more glass and interior) in base version weighed 1254 kg / 2765 lbs. It looks like John's conversion didn't add much weight (to reach 1,365 kg / 3,010 lb), even with the big battery (for a DIY conversion and only 154 V): 279 kilograms of mass and 119 litres of volume (plus structure, enclosure, interconnects, etc), and 41.6 kWh (nominal). With similar components coming out a Mustang, the conversion weight gain could be similar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I've been thinking a lot about this project, and it just occurred to me that I might be better off just building IRS for the rear and installing the complete Leaf and transaxle back there. Since the gas tank makes up the trunk floor, it would be plenty easy to fit things back there without much cutting, at least initially...

It might be worth at least test fitting something.

EDIT: I've never built an IRS system, but if I'm going to go through all of this work to patch the car up and make it nice, I might as well spend a bit more time on drivetrain layout instead of assuming the same old same old...
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top