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"The Lithiumaniacs EV Drag Racing Team are building a street legal 300ZX that will smoke "White Zombies" record. It also has dual motors and lithium batteries. No details yet. We will run on the East Coast Tracks in 2011. "
Which car are you planning to do the above with? The 300zx or the camero?
I have started cutting the lexan for the battery boxes. Anyone know a good way to seam the joints/edges together? Glues or heat maybe? I will due some DD on lexan but any tips will be helpful. Pictures coming soon.
A few have asked me privately why our pack is only 240V when some racers have packs over 350V. Well, my calculations on battery pack voltage are based on our set-up. The Netgain Warp 11" motors operate on voltage 170V to 200V, we went up to 240V for the battery sag. Our Zilla 2K is using the Hairball to create a series to parallel switch during racing. We are counting on the HUGE amounts of torque to launch the car from the line (2000amps two 11" motors) . Afterwards the controller will pump 200V to each motor for additional HP.
We have many ways to set-up this car, we will try this as our first set-up. We can always modify later if our results are lacking.
Other racers use HV motors, we are not. The 1/4 mile is a short distance we are counting on torque with our HUGE rear slicks to give us the edge off the line. The car will be very very light with fiberglass nose, doors, trunk lid, and lexan windows. I sure hope the wheelie bars work, I am the driver!
I agree with everyone asking why the voltage is so low, if your pockets are as deep as they are why not max out the battery. That is your HP comes from right there, it's not your motors, it's not your zilla, it's just your batteries, and the pack you're building is smaller that what I'm putting in my daily driver porsche (looks like you are using P cells where I will be using S but still!!) From the way I see it since you have LV motors why not try and up the pack voltage enough that you don't have to switch to parallel?? At minimum you save the switching time for the contactors, and one of the reasons for the series/parallel switching was to make up for lead acid batteries voltage sag. Other than the fact I believe your pack is too small for a 1600-2000A peak reliably, your headways shouldn't sag the way LA does. From what I understand about the Zilla HV it's rated 300v nominal for a LA pack, meaning it should be just fine at 340-350v charged.