DIY Electric Car Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 772 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
sounds good,
what batteries did you decide on?
and why is the voltage so low? the dragsters i've read about run higher voltage...and you do have zilla 2k, so is there a reason for the 240 volts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,494 Posts
"The Lithiumaniacs EV Drag Racing Team are building a street legal 300ZX that will smoke "White Zombies" record. It also has dual motors and lithium batteries. No details yet. We will run on the East Coast Tracks in 2011. :D"

Which car are you planning to do the above with? The 300zx or the camero?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I have given the 300ZX to another Lithiumaniacs team member, he will finish that car. My priority is finishing the Camaro. We currently have 4 cars involved with team Lithiumaniacs, two I own, the remainder is owned by other members. :p

"The Lithiumaniacs EV Drag Racing Team are building a street legal 300ZX that will smoke "White Zombies" record. It also has dual motors and lithium batteries. No details yet. We will run on the East Coast Tracks in 2011. :D"

Which car are you planning to do the above with? The 300zx or the camero?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I have started cutting the lexan for the battery boxes. Anyone know a good way to seam the joints/edges together? Glues or heat maybe? I will due some DD on lexan but any tips will be helpful. Pictures coming soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
A quick search and I have found:

"The material chosen for the battery connection box housing was Lexan EXL9330 resin, a copolymer of PC and siloxane. This material combines the best of PC and silicone chemistry to produce a thermoplastic resin with exceptional low-temperature toughness to -60 C, excellent and long-term weatherability, excellent dimensional stability, a CTI value of two required by the customer, and UL94 5VA flame retardancy at three mm walls."


I have started cutting the lexan for the battery boxes. Anyone know a good way to seam the joints/edges together? Glues or heat maybe? I will due some DD on lexan but any tips will be helpful. Pictures coming soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Lexan Polycarbonate Glue IPS40-PT
Item ID: IPS40-PT
Weld-On #40 Pint Kit (A+B)


SUBSTRATE RECOMMENDATIONS
WELD-ON 40 is especially formulated to bond extruded, cast, and cross linked acrylic sheets. It will also bond
acrylic to polyester, butyrate, polycarbonate, PVC and other materials.
BONDING RECOMMENDATIONS
WELD-ON 40 is recommended for bonding of acrylic plastics especially where good clarity retention is required.
It is versatile having many applications in the sign industry and in the manufacturing and repair of aquariums,
museum quality cases and other plastics fabrication industries.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
WELD-ON 40 is a 2-component, clear, medium syrupy, reactive acrylic cement. It polymerizes at room
temperature, forming high strength joints within a few hours. The cemented joint retains high clarity, good
strength and resistance to the effects of weathering and aging. In cases where a lower viscosity is desired,
WELD-ON 3061 may be used as a reactive diluent. To maintain similar curing properties it is not recommended
to dilute more than 10% to the undiluted WELD-ON 40, Component “A”. Meets MIL SPEC. A-8576 Type III.
BOND STRENGTH DATA
The following bond strength data reflects average tensile strengths of cemented joints at a 0.2”/min. straining
rate. The materials tested were butt joints of sq. in. bond area. (Bond strength data indicating elevated
temperatures are post cures at the given temperature. Initial cure is at room temperature for 24 hours in all
cases.)
SUBSTRATE MATERIAL TIME TEMP. STRENGTH
Acrylic 24 HRS R.T. 2600 PSI
1 WEEK R.T. 4000
24 HRS 120ºF 4500
1 WEEK 120ºF 5700
24 HRS 150ºF 5900
1 WEEK 150ºF 7000
ADHESIVE PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS
COLOR: Clear 80% STRENGTH: 72 hours
VISCOSITY: 2900 cps SPECIFIC GRAVITY: 1.03 ± .040
REACTIVITY: 35 to 40 minutes COVERAGE: 10mil: 30sq.ft/Pint 240sq. ft/Gallon
WORKING TIME: 20 minutes 20mil: 15sq.ft/Pint 120sq. ft/Gallon
FIXTURE TIME: 2 hours
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Surface Preparation: Surfaces to be joined should be clean and fit without forcing. It should not be necessary to
flex either piece more than a few thousandths of an inch to achieve complete contact. Surfaces should be
sanded with 240 to 400 grit sandpaper before bonding.
Mixing: Before mixing, bring both Components (A & B) to room temperature. Per 100cc or grams of Comp. “A”,
add 5cc or 5 grams of Comp. “B”. Stir until completely mixed. If base cement is above 85ºF, pre-cool to 75ºF
before mixing.
Pot Life: When mixed, pot life at 75ºF is approximately 20 minutes. Note: shorter pot life may result where larger
masses are used or when temperature is above 75ºF.
Preliminary Annealing: To prevent crazing during bonding, acrylics should be annealed following machining
and forming. (Refer to acrylic sheet manufacturer's published Annealing Schedules.)
Making The Joint: Apply cement with suitable applicator to one or both surfaces and assemble immediately. If
cellophane masking tapes are used, avoid contact of cement with adhesive side of tape. Apply just enough
pressure to remove air bubbles. Do not squeeze parts so hard as to force cement out of joint, a dry joint could
result. If possible, cover joint with cellophane to prevent inhibition of cure by air.

Properties of the Bond: The tack free time for WELD-ON 40 when applied at 20mil thickness is about 7-8
minutes and the cure time is about 20 minutes. The film will become hard in 45-60 minutes. Usually joints are
hard enough for handling in about 4 hours at 70ºF. Machining may be done after 24 hours.

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Lexan_Polycarbonate_Glue/PLEXIGLASS-GLUE-ADHESIVE-IPS40-PT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,308 Posts
I agree with everyone asking why the voltage is so low, if your pockets are as deep as they are why not max out the battery. That is your HP comes from right there, it's not your motors, it's not your zilla, it's just your batteries, and the pack you're building is smaller that what I'm putting in my daily driver porsche (looks like you are using P cells where I will be using S but still!!) From the way I see it since you have LV motors why not try and up the pack voltage enough that you don't have to switch to parallel?? At minimum you save the switching time for the contactors, and one of the reasons for the series/parallel switching was to make up for lead acid batteries voltage sag. Other than the fact I believe your pack is too small for a 1600-2000A peak reliably, your headways shouldn't sag the way LA does. From what I understand about the Zilla HV it's rated 300v nominal for a LA pack, meaning it should be just fine at 340-350v charged.

Good luck.


A few have asked me privately why our pack is only 240V when some racers have packs over 350V. Well, my calculations on battery pack voltage are based on our set-up. The Netgain Warp 11" motors operate on voltage 170V to 200V, we went up to 240V for the battery sag. Our Zilla 2K is using the Hairball to create a series to parallel switch during racing. We are counting on the HUGE amounts of torque to launch the car from the line (2000amps two 11" motors) :eek:. Afterwards the controller will pump 200V to each motor for additional HP.

We have many ways to set-up this car, we will try this as our first set-up. We can always modify later if our results are lacking. :rolleyes:

Other racers use HV motors, we are not. The 1/4 mile is a short distance we are counting on torque with our HUGE rear slicks to give us the edge off the line. The car will be very very light with fiberglass nose, doors, trunk lid, and lexan windows. I sure hope the wheelie bars work, I am the driver! :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Okay, so what your recommending is wire the Zilla2K for parallel only, and up my battery pack to send more volts to the motors and rely on HP to win a 1/4 mile race? Hmmmmn. I have one question, I know my ZillaHV will operate over 300V, but my motors can only operate on 170v to 200v, so how will a larger pack help if I can only use 200v to the motors? :confused:

I am always open to different ideas and suggestions. :D

I agree with everyone asking why the voltage is so low, if your pockets are as deep as they are why not max out the battery. That is your HP comes from right there, it's not your motors, it's not your zilla, it's just your batteries, and the pack you're building is smaller that what I'm putting in my daily driver porsche (looks like you are using P cells where I will be using S but still!!) From the way I see it since you have LV motors why not try and up the pack voltage enough that you don't have to switch to parallel?? At minimum you save the switching time for the contactors, and one of the reasons for the series/parallel switching was to make up for lead acid batteries voltage sag. Other than the fact I believe your pack is too small for a 1600-2000A peak reliably, your headways shouldn't sag the way LA does. From what I understand about the Zilla HV it's rated 300v nominal for a LA pack, meaning it should be just fine at 340-350v charged.

Good luck.
 
1 - 20 of 772 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top