1981 Camaro Dragster Project - Official Tread - All Info!

Lexan Polycarbonate Glue IPS40-PT
Item ID: IPS40-PT
Weld-On #40 Pint Kit (A+B)


SUBSTRATE RECOMMENDATIONS
WELD-ON 40 is especially formulated to bond extruded, cast, and cross linked acrylic sheets. It will also bond
acrylic to polyester, butyrate, polycarbonate, PVC and other materials.
BONDING RECOMMENDATIONS
WELD-ON 40 is recommended for bonding of acrylic plastics especially where good clarity retention is required.
It is versatile having many applications in the sign industry and in the manufacturing and repair of aquariums,
museum quality cases and other plastics fabrication industries.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
WELD-ON 40 is a 2-component, clear, medium syrupy, reactive acrylic cement. It polymerizes at room
temperature, forming high strength joints within a few hours. The cemented joint retains high clarity, good
strength and resistance to the effects of weathering and aging. In cases where a lower viscosity is desired,
WELD-ON 3061 may be used as a reactive diluent. To maintain similar curing properties it is not recommended
to dilute more than 10% to the undiluted WELD-ON 40, Component “A”. Meets MIL SPEC. A-8576 Type III.
BOND STRENGTH DATA
The following bond strength data reflects average tensile strengths of cemented joints at a 0.2”/min. straining
rate. The materials tested were butt joints of sq. in. bond area. (Bond strength data indicating elevated
temperatures are post cures at the given temperature. Initial cure is at room temperature for 24 hours in all
cases.)
SUBSTRATE MATERIAL TIME TEMP. STRENGTH
Acrylic 24 HRS R.T. 2600 PSI
1 WEEK R.T. 4000
24 HRS 120ºF 4500
1 WEEK 120ºF 5700
24 HRS 150ºF 5900
1 WEEK 150ºF 7000
ADHESIVE PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS
COLOR: Clear 80% STRENGTH: 72 hours
VISCOSITY: 2900 cps SPECIFIC GRAVITY: 1.03 ± .040
REACTIVITY: 35 to 40 minutes COVERAGE: 10mil: 30sq.ft/Pint 240sq. ft/Gallon
WORKING TIME: 20 minutes 20mil: 15sq.ft/Pint 120sq. ft/Gallon
FIXTURE TIME: 2 hours
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Surface Preparation: Surfaces to be joined should be clean and fit without forcing. It should not be necessary to
flex either piece more than a few thousandths of an inch to achieve complete contact. Surfaces should be
sanded with 240 to 400 grit sandpaper before bonding.
Mixing: Before mixing, bring both Components (A & B) to room temperature. Per 100cc or grams of Comp. “A”,
add 5cc or 5 grams of Comp. “B”. Stir until completely mixed. If base cement is above 85ºF, pre-cool to 75ºF
before mixing.
Pot Life: When mixed, pot life at 75ºF is approximately 20 minutes. Note: shorter pot life may result where larger
masses are used or when temperature is above 75ºF.
Preliminary Annealing: To prevent crazing during bonding, acrylics should be annealed following machining
and forming. (Refer to acrylic sheet manufacturer's published Annealing Schedules.)
Making The Joint: Apply cement with suitable applicator to one or both surfaces and assemble immediately. If
cellophane masking tapes are used, avoid contact of cement with adhesive side of tape. Apply just enough
pressure to remove air bubbles. Do not squeeze parts so hard as to force cement out of joint, a dry joint could
result. If possible, cover joint with cellophane to prevent inhibition of cure by air.

Properties of the Bond: The tack free time for WELD-ON 40 when applied at 20mil thickness is about 7-8
minutes and the cure time is about 20 minutes. The film will become hard in 45-60 minutes. Usually joints are
hard enough for handling in about 4 hours at 70ºF. Machining may be done after 24 hours.

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Lexan_Polycarbonate_Glue/PLEXIGLASS-GLUE-ADHESIVE-IPS40-PT

I agree with everyone asking why the voltage is so low, if your pockets are as deep as they are why not max out the battery. That is your HP comes from right there, it's not your motors, it's not your zilla, it's just your batteries, and the pack you're building is smaller that what I'm putting in my daily driver porsche (looks like you are using P cells where I will be using S but still!!) From the way I see it since you have LV motors why not try and up the pack voltage enough that you don't have to switch to parallel?? At minimum you save the switching time for the contactors, and one of the reasons for the series/parallel switching was to make up for lead acid batteries voltage sag. Other than the fact I believe your pack is too small for a 1600-2000A peak reliably, your headways shouldn't sag the way LA does. From what I understand about the Zilla HV it's rated 300v nominal for a LA pack, meaning it should be just fine at 340-350v charged.

Good luck.

LithiumaniacsEVRacing said:

A few have asked me privately why our pack is only 240V when some racers have packs over 350V. Well, my calculations on battery pack voltage are based on our set-up. The Netgain Warp 11" motors operate on voltage 170V to 200V, we went up to 240V for the battery sag. Our Zilla 2K is using the Hairball to create a series to parallel switch during racing. We are counting on the HUGE amounts of torque to launch the car from the line (2000amps two 11" motors) . Afterwards the controller will pump 200V to each motor for additional HP.

We have many ways to set-up this car, we will try this as our first set-up. We can always modify later if our results are lacking.

Other racers use HV motors, we are not. The 1/4 mile is a short distance we are counting on torque with our HUGE rear slicks to give us the edge off the line. The car will be very very light with fiberglass nose, doors, trunk lid, and lexan windows. I sure hope the wheelie bars work, I am the driver!

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