[windraver]

Started moving pins from LB13 to LB8

Took about half an hour but LB8 is done. That takes care of modules 25-36

Will depin LB7 tomorrow and move over the remaining pins from LB13/14 to LB7

 

[windraver]

Finished validating all the pins on swapped over the LB13/14 to the LB7

And its de-pinned.

All the pins moved over:

Ready to go:

Now I just need to stack the module 25-48 and bolt this connector on.

I stacked the batteries but I definitely need to figure out some way to support the rods/batteries with some brackets because the rods otherwise bend

Two stacks of 24. Almost there.

 

[remy_martian]

What about an angle iron base and sheet sidewalls as a box for the pack that keeps it all from sagging?

Don't forget the first speedbump could make that thing weigh 5x or more what it does static.

 

[windraver]

What about an angle iron base and sheet sidewalls as a box for the pack that keeps it all from sagging?

Don't forget the first speedbump could make that thing weigh 5x or more what it does static.

Thats an interesting idea. I was trying to get all the bracket/plates in between the batteries to add support but maybe making my own would be easier... I'll have to look into it further.

 

[windraver]

Since I'm not planning to use that box I built anymore, I hacked it to be the new battery mount

Also dropped in the battery

The hacked mount

Getting the 24 pack ready for a test fit.

And it fits.

Excuse the mess. I'm still trying to figure out where to mount some things...

Also, trying to figure out what this little black box coming out the service connector is for:

 

[windraver]

Apparently I had cut up the wiring when I moved the PDM so I had to reconnect the PDM wires.

I swear I'll clean up the wiring.

Also tried to test fit the 12v battery but it didn't fit due to height so I installed the NOCO lithium 12v I got.

.

Also took out the 2nd 24 module stack because the BMS wires didn't reach so I rotated the battery 180 degrees.

Also planning a mount for the service disconnect.

 

[remy_martian]

If it were me, I'd look at stacking the battery modules over the axle, as far forward as possible, to pull in the polar moment, get some crush space so you're not building an electric Pinto (you're clearly making an effort to leave the back seats open for the kids...), and have a spot for groceries....penalty is c.g. goes up a bit.

 

[windraver]

If it were me, I'd look at stacking the battery modules over the axle, as far forward as possible, to pull in the polar moment, get some crush space so you're not building an electric Pinto (you're clearly making an effort to leave the back seats open for the kids...), and have a spot for groceries....penalty is c.g. goes up a bit.

Its actually a 2 seater so rather I'm leaving room for the driver and maybe passenger

The car really is that small. I think if I stacked 24 modules on top of 24 modules vertically, I'd probably lose visibility of the rear window.

I'm guessing you meant to say stack them vertically like this? (This is someone else's battery stack)

I think if I could drop the battery down that'd be better but I'm going to leave that as a future goal. I get this feeling I'm going to upgrade the batteries at some point and likely at that point, I'll actually redo the battery layout.

 

[remy_martian]

I mentioned this in @D&VsEVJeep thread - I would not be on the road in anything with a pack that close to the rear bumper. Your cells are about three inches from the rear hatch latch.

Your build choices, just don't get rear-ended. Lithium cells light off when crushed.

😂

 

[windraver]

Trying to figure out why I'm getting codes.

MOTOR/INV P324A

BMS
U1000
P3196

 

[windraver]

Also interesting is that the relays are not turning off once I turn off ignition. Is the Resolve EV supposed to send 12v out from pin 44 to relay for INV and BMS when ignition is off? Currently my system maintains 12v on pin 44 after turning off ignition.

 

[windraver]

So I noticed, while moving the wires going to the BMS around... That the battery relay would click.

I think the CAN wires are receiving interference from the HV conduits. I moved the wires and now the car powers up.

The issue now is that after going into drive, when pressing the accelerator, there will be a loud whining sound coming from the relays and then it goes away and nothing works.

I took a video of it but it became a YouTube short

High Pitch Whine when accelerating in drive. motor doesn't spin.

youtube.com

 

[Electric Land Cruiser]

The black box you circled a few posts up is the current sensor I believe.

Also make sure your CAN wire pairs are all twisted up.

Lastly if high voltage/current wiring needs to cross over low voltage/current wiring then have them cross at 90 degrees for less interference.

 

[windraver]

So I got new DTCs but still can't figure out why the motor won't move and the cause for the whining sound.

Something about the IGBT temperature too high?

 

[windraver]

Now what can cause over current or excessive temperature in the Inverter? I hasn't even moved...

 

[remy_martian]

No coolant...

You need to vacuum purge the system.

 

[windraver]

No coolant...

You need to vacuum purge the system.

Is there a sensor for coolant in the inverter? I was thinking I could dry test but I suppose I need to run coolant then. I'll try that.

 

[remy_martian]

You CANNOT run the IGBTs dry...you'll smoke 'em in milliseconds.

 

[windraver]

Started installing the water pump and radiator. I need to source adapters to convert from 1" (radiator) to 3/4" leaf hoses.

 

[Electric Land Cruiser]

I drove my EV conversion without any coolant in it around the block a few times. Nothing overheated or blew up. I'd start from basics and start tracing your wiring.