[CrunchTime]

Started today.

Only had the car and most major components since mid-March - been driving the BMW (and enjoying it - not very green of me, I know) since then, but now that it's warmer I've run out of excuses (like the car is now out of petrol. Forever).

Didn't get as far as I hoped (but then I guess having the engine out after an hour was a bit much to expect )

So I drained the radiator, but couldn't find the engine block coolant plug, which (after more research) turns out to be on the other side of the engine from where I was looking, and hidden below the oxygen sensor, of which I have to be careful apparently (since I want to sell the engine - anyone (NZ) want an M52 with 335k on the clock?). Tomorrow night, maybe...

I'm following the Bentley book to do the pull, but am finding that although it's complete, it does assume at least some knowledge (like what the exhaust side of the engine is - I thought they meant the exhaust side of the car, which is different). I at least know what they mean by "front of the car..."

Now to go move the jack stands - I think they're in a bad place...

(one thing is for sure - I'm going to know a lot more about cars after this...)

 

[jackbauer]

I'm doing a '96 bmw 316 myself and i can say both the bently and haynes manuals are rubbish. I'll give you a few pointers that i found. Firstly , pull the engine and gearbox as one unit. Forget removing the gearbox on its own. If you have the rubber coupler between the drive shaft and gearbox you'll need an 18mm deep socket , knuckle joint , 18mm spanner and a long power bar to shift the 3 clinch bolts. I couldnt stop the engine from turning even with the handbrake on so i removed the plugs and filled the cylinders with oil. Not an option for yourself as you want to sell the engine so i'd have a friend in the driver seat with both feet on the brake pedal.

Fuel tank removal is real fun. Forget the manuals unless you *really* want to sell the tank. Remove the driveshaft and disconnect the handbrake cables and pull them through. Then inside the car remove the back seat and the two hatches and cut everything in sight. Under the car chop the straps (forget trying to undo the bolts they will be rusted solid) then undo the center bolt. Tank will sit on the two trailing arm bushes. Get a good stout rope and wrap it around the center of the tank. Then get a few friends and go tug of war on its ass! Tank will fold in the center and squeeze out past the bushes. Emptying the tank is best done prior to engine removal by connecting a hose to the high pressure line at the fuel rail and holding the fuel pump relay closed with a croc clip. Be warned i did this and thought the tank was empty. Well it was except for the 4 gallons of fuel it still contained!

Not sure how much of this will apply to yourself but hope it helps. I have a few vids on youtube may be a help.

 

[CroDriver]

Hi.

A BMW 3-series is a great donor!

I'm converting a E30

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28287

If you'll use a Kostov, I can make you all the motor-to-gearbox adapter parts you need

I can post photos of the finished parts later, I don't have them on this PC

Good luck!

 

[Thaniel]

I think 3 series BMW's make great cars to convert.

Not sure about all the trouble described in removing the tank. Mine came out very easy. But then again none of the bolts on mine were rusted.

Good luck with the swap and I'll second the Bently manual being not very good. They haynes manual is ok (for the money) but does not cover much in depth.

If you haven't pulled the motor yet one tip I can give you is to leave the entire harness connected to the motor/trans until out of the car (just undo the big plug by the fuse box and remove the relays on the side of the fuse box, the cover attached in the middle of the car and the connectors to the DME). I cut mine of the motor when I did one car and after it was out realize how easy it would have been to remove the thing together.

Oh other thoughts. Leave the hood on just put in the full vertical position (may have to remove one screw that locks it out of this on the linkage if no one else has and not put it back). Also removing the bumper and nose panel make access much easier and does not take all that long.

Thaniel

 

[CroDriver]

The aluminum adapter plate isn't finished yet

This components are the hardest part of a conversion. At least they where the biggest issue for me

 

[CrunchTime]

Front bumper is off...

Thanks for the help, guys - makes me feel a bit better. I've come to this knowing that I know nothing about cars, so any advice is useful

I'm doing a '96 bmw 316 myself and i can say both the bently and haynes manuals are rubbish.

May be, but to someone with no prior experience, anything is better than nothing

Firstly , pull the engine and gearbox as one unit. ... i removed the plugs and filled the cylinders with oil...

As you say - not an option. Although I did find a website where they were talking about preserving unused engines in a barrel of oil, so I guess it's not necessarily all bad...

Fuel tank removal is real fun.

Judging by your description, I don't think "fun" means what you think it means I'm expecting a lot of "fun" during this project...

Not sure how much of this will apply to yourself but hope it helps. I have a few vids on youtube may be a help.

Got a link? I had a quick look but couldn't find you...

A BMW 3-series is a great donor!

I hope so...

I'm converting a E30

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28287

I've been watching - yours is a bit out of my league, though

If you'll use a Kostov, I can make you all the motor-to-gearbox adapter parts you need

I'm using an Advanced DC FB1-4001A, so I guess that won't work...

Not sure about all the trouble described in removing the tank. Mine came out very easy. But then again none of the bolts on mine were rusted.

The car is in pretty good nick(for 335,000 km), so I'm hopeful that there won't be any rusty bolts (or body etc). Haven't found any yet...

...leave the entire harness connected to the motor/trans...

...Leave the hood on just put in the full vertical position...

Also removing the bumper and nose panel make access much easier and does not take all that long.

All useful tips - in fact, tonight after work I removed the front bumper

I decided to leave the radiator for a bit - I need to do some easy jobs first to build up some confidence (and yes, I know it's not hard for you guys with your workshops and toolkits, but remember all my tools are bright and shiny! And Oh! for a double garage. Or even a single garage that I could get the car into...).

The grill/front panel is next - little baby steps for me. Hopefully the weekend will be fine...

(pictures later...) (not that a missing front bumper is very exciting for anyone except me, and maybe the guys at work with a sweepstake on when/if I finish this )

 

[jackbauer]

http://www.youtube.com/user/pooey1911
happy viewing

 

[Woodsmith]

Re: Front bumper is off...

All useful tips - in fact, tonight after work I removed the front bumper

I decided to leave the radiator for a bit - I need to do some easy jobs first to build up some confidence (and yes, I know it's not hard for you guys with your workshops and toolkits, but remember all my tools are bright and shiny! And Oh! for a double garage. Or even a single garage that I could get the car into...).

The grill/front panel is next - little baby steps for me. Hopefully the weekend will be fine...

We don't all have huge garages and workshops. I'm doing mine on an open air rubble driveway with tools and skills I haven't used in anger for nearly 2 decades.
It is amazing what is possible when you stop caring what the neighbours think of the developing 'junk yard' on their doorstep!

 

[CrunchTime]

http://www.youtube.com/user/pooey1911
happy viewing

Thanks (having trouble with my connection - I'll try later )

We don't all have huge garages and workshops. I'm doing mine on an open air rubble driveway with tools and skills I haven't used in anger for nearly 2 decades.
It is amazing what is possible when you stop caring what the neighbours think of the developing 'junk yard' on their doorstep!

Hmmm - at least mine's not rubble, but concrete

And at least you had the skills 20 years ago - I've never had them

Speaking of tools - do I actually need any of the special BMW tools I keep reading about (or is there always an alternative)? The one that concerns me most (so far) is the one for removing the fuel line connector, when I get to it...

Got the front grill and panel off, and finally bit the bullet and wiggled under the car far enough to find what I think is the engine block coolant drain plug. (By leaving the radiator cap on until I was back out from underneath, I managed to (mostly) avoid the toxic shower I read about - it slowed the flow down to a trickle) I'm not convinced it's all out, since it's nowhere near the 10 liters I apparently should have had (more like 6)...

 

[Woodsmith]

Hmmm - at least mine's not rubble, but concrete

And at least you had the skills 20 years ago - I've never had them

Ahh but 20 years ago it didn't hurt so much crawling under the car in the cold and wet.

Basic mechanics isn't overly complex but it is worth reading the manual and following the steps through. For potentially dangerous parts of the job, make sure a friend is around to help out. Lifting the engine out is definately an occasion when a second pair of hands and eyes helps.

As for special tools, sometimes a little inginuity helps when you can see what sort of tool is required. If the job is only to dismantle one part that you are not keeping then it isn't worth the purchase of a tool.
For the fuel line in particular you could just cut it off unless it has great resale value.

 

[jackbauer]

Yeah you need one special tool. BMW part number H-A-C-K-S-A-W-12". It works on:
Coolant hoses, fuel lines , brackets , engine loom.

 

[CrunchTime]

Yeah you need one special tool. BMW part number H-A-C-K-S-A-W-12". It works on:
Coolant hoses, fuel lines , brackets , engine loom.

Actually today someone suggested the power version - a-n-g-l-e-g-r-i-n-d-e-r... It was just after I mentioned having seen rusty exhaust bolts while crawling around underneath...

Radiator's out - ignored the book in the end and took the radiator out. Couldn't get the fan nut undone - requires a special tool (apart from the reverse-threaded spanner ) to hold the coolant pump stationary - my screwdriver didn't work - it bent, instead

Found some more of that pesky coolant, too - it was in the pipes...

 

[Jimdear2]

Actually today someone suggested the power version - a-n-g-l-e-g-r-i-n-d-e-r... It was just after I mentioned having seen rusty exhaust bolts while crawling around underneath...

Radiator's out - ignored the book in the end and took the radiator out. Couldn't get the fan nut undone - requires a special tool (apart from the reverse-threaded spanner ) to hold the coolant pump stationary - my screwdriver didn't work - it bent, instead

Found some more of that pesky coolant, too - it was in the pipes...

You all might try the non OEM generic version of the tools you mention, a battery operated 3.5-i-n-c-h-s-t-r-o-k-s-a-w-s-a-l-l. The power cord version works as well, it's just not quite as handy.

You would be supprised at how versitile a disassembly tool it is. You can take about 95% of a car apart with this one tool

 

[jackbauer]

You need a 32mm spanner for the fan. its a left hand thread. the jackbauer method was to attach spanner then use a few belts of the hammer to loosen.

 

[evlowrider]

Hey Crunchtime! good to see your project is underway. I'm in Lower Hutt too so if you need a hand or want to check out my project gimme a shout. I have a 2ton engine crane if you need to borrow it for lifting the engine out.

I'm working on my MX5 currently, a few steps ahead of you since I have my engine out now.

WRT tools, one of my best investments has been an air compressor + rattle gun (impact wrench), its great for undo'ing those rusty and seized bolts that you'll no doubt encounter.

Pete.

 

[CrunchTime]

Got some more stuff out: Disconnected the main loom (basically the way you suggested, Thaniel - thanks ); removed the heater switch and related pipes (found some more coolant, too).

I seem to be at the point of needing to disconnect the fuel lines (to remove the injector header before removing the inlet manifold before...) - any hints for this?

Learning all the time...

(Got to go let off the fireworks - it's Guy Fawkes night (or it was on Thursday, anyway...))

 

[Thaniel]

Glad something I suggested was useful. I can do car mechanics but struggle with a lot of the EV electrical details.

I seem to be at the point of needing to disconnect the fuel lines (to remove the injector header before removing the inlet manifold before...) - any hints for this?

Removing the inlet manifold? Why? I took mine engine out all in one piece.

Here is a pic of what I took out from my blog.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_nEnkWndwKqA/RnW6VscjzNI/AAAAAAAAAAM/JOcI6MTYaOw/s1600-h/154-5447_IMG.JPG

Looking at it I'm reminded i took of the throttle body just to not break it. To disconnect the fuel lines.....you don't need them. hack saw through the rubber lines. I don't remember how I did it but any rubber lines connecting to the engine I basically just cut through. To lift the motor out you can see in the picture I put the spreader bar cross wise and attached to the motor mount locations then a strap back to the trans to balance it. worked reasonably well.

Thaniel

 

[CrunchTime]

Glad something I suggested was useful.

So was I

Removing the inlet manifold? Why? I took mine engine out all in one piece.

#@$&% Didn't read your post until now - the manifold is out already

To disconnect the fuel lines.....

It turned out to be easy - no special tool required - simple screw clamp like most of the other pipes etc.

To lift the motor out you can see in the picture I put the spreader bar cross wise and attached to the motor mount locations then a strap back to the trans to balance it. worked reasonably well.

Nearly there, I think. Exhaust manifold to be detached, and maybe some other bits and pieces. I have one wire that doesn't seem to have a connector, from the main loom going towards the back of the car. If I can't find a plug, I'll just cut it, but haven't actually done that to anything yet. In theory, I could still put this thing back together - Yeah, right...

Once the ICE is out, this will turn into an EV thread - at the moment it's more of a "newbie fiddling with cars" sort of thing - sorry about that. I appreciate the help, though!

 

[Thaniel]

So was I
Nearly there, I think. Exhaust manifold to be detached, and maybe some other bits and pieces. I have one wire that doesn't seem to have a connector, from the main loom going towards the back of the car.

I left the exhaust manifold on as well. Just disconnected it from the down pipe (exhaust pipe). cut the bolts off if you have to.

Looking at some pictures I took of it out. Yup exhaust manifold and all accessories still on it. I really didn't spend much time taking it out.

The wire going to the back is probably either going to the back up switch (if you have a manual trans) or the O2 sensor. Should be easy enough to see. If it is to the back up swtich it'll come out with the trans so don't worry about it. The o2 sensor should have a plug somewhere. I forget where. I think under the car near the trans. Remove the exhuaust and you find it.

I'll attach some picts to show I'm not making this stuff up

 

[jackbauer]

Two cables run from the wiring box under the windscreen to the back. One is the oxygen sensor. it has 3 wires other is the reversing light switch with two wires.