Thanks for sharing! I'm about to set up a similar system in my Pinto!
I used a BMS from thunderstruck: Battery Management SystemCan you link to your BMS? ideally also a trustworthy source
Ah, the dreaded after conversion start of transmission noise! I think it must be a human nature thing where most people immediately blame the transmission for the problem. I mean it couldn't possibly be anything I did! Usually this problem is associated with poor alignment issues. But I think you have that covered by using the usually well designed and made Can EV adaptor set-up. A couple of times I've seen the press-on hubs start to work their way off of the shaft and cause all kinds of mayhem. Usually, this is accompanied by the clutch pedal raising up out of position. Is your hub secured with set screws and maybe with dimples in the motor shaft?Well, the truck is doing great electrically, but I am starting to hear noise coming from the transmission!
Well, I did install all of it without knowing exactly what I was doing, so anything that is wrong with it will be my fault, of course.I think it must be a human nature thing where most people immediately blame the transmission for the problem. I mean it couldn't possibly be anything I did!
Throwout bearing is bad.Well, I did install all of it without knowing exactly what I was doing, so anything that is wrong with it will be my fault, of course.
The noise that I believe is coming from the pilot bearing only occurs when the clutch is fully depressed, and goes away as the motor RPM drops off, or the clutch pedal is released. When I drive it, everything sounds okay. Its just that now it squeals when the clutch is depressed, and if I listen to the transmission in neutral when there is no road noise, I can hear what sounds to me like some bearing noise. There is also a tiny leak at the output shaft. I bought the truck for 750 bucks, and it was not operable when I got it, so I have no baseline for what shape the transmission was in.
I will check the hub, but I seriously doubt it has moved. It was heated to 400F and then just dropped onto the shaft with a plunk. Once it cools it locks on with a death-grip. I know this, because I had to take it in to a motor shop to have it pried off when I botched the first try at getting it on right. My little 2 ton pulley puller would not even budge it. I did check the flywheel hub with a dial indicator, and it was within spec for run-out.
Wouldnt the throw-out bearing start to make noise as soon as the clutch pedal began to engage? The noise I am hearing only starts once the pedal is all the way down.Throwout bearing is bad.
I did not! As Brian surely remembers, and can likely quote you the day I said it from memoryI forget from your build postings: did you make sure there was some clearance between the end of the transmission input shaft and the end of the motor shaft, when everything was torqued down?
Invest in a tail shaft end cap.with transmission oil pouring out the back
I looked back over my notes, and the time I logged my drive up to the farm, I was running at about 2000 to 3000 rpm when pulling max current. The motor is rated for 120kw peak, and max 8000rpms.What percent of max motor rpm are you running during the hill climbs and how many HP is the motor again?
Haha, if I knew that was a thing, I would definitely have done that! I tried the old "rag and a plastic bag" routine they suggested in the chiltons, but that only goes so long before it gets soaked in oil and falls off. God I hate oil.Invest in a tail shaft end cap.
Been there several times on almost every project. It's not the work, it's the frustration and the futility.I almost quit my project for good.