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Very nice stronger beetle.
But I'm surprised that the Warp 9 fits without tinsmiths purely. At corbin dunn his beautiful beetle it did not fit.
I think corbin also has the canev adapter.
1000 amps with a beetle gear is insanity.
Greetings Boxster-Warp
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello
Very nice stronger beetle.
But I'm surprised that the Warp 9 fits without tinsmiths purely. At corbin dunn his beautiful beetle it did not fit.
I think corbin also has the canev adapter.
1000 amps with a beetle gear is insanity.
Greetings Boxster-Warp
Thanks for all of the kind comments!

And about the fitment, yes it was very difficult to get that to fit. I have not seen anyone else be able to fit a warp 9 in there as I have. I removed the apron which was very difficult, and modified it so it the angle was adjusted a bit, and did not sit completely flush. If you look at the sides of the apron, you’ll see where there is a small gap on either side. Personally, I like that look better than cutting a large hole in the apron, and having to redo the latching mechanism.
 

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What's the story with that battery pack? OEM bits? Reconfigured?
The website says
296VDC nominal, 336VDC fully charged.
80 Xalt Energy High Power 75 ah cells in an 80S configuration.
It isn't clear to me if the front pack is all 80 cells, or there is another stack (presumably behind the rear seat). It looks too small for the front pack to be the whole capacity, but I don't know if the capacity rating is realistic; I'm guessing that the front pack is half of the total, and it looks like there are about 40 pouch cell edges visible.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What's the story with that battery pack? OEM bits? Reconfigured?
The website says
296VDC nominal, 336VDC fully charged.
80 Xalt Energy High Power 75 ah cells in an 80S configuration.
It isn't clear to me if the front pack is all 80 cells, or there is another stack (presumably behind the rear seat). It looks too small for the front pack to be the whole capacity, but I don't know if the capacity rating is realistic; I'm guessing that the front pack is half of the total, and it looks like there are about 40 pouch cell edges visible.
Good looking! Yes the front is two modules, and there are another two behind the rear seat. Each module is 20 cells in series and weighs in at 85 lbs.

So the battery pack is not OEM, no bits from anything, it is entirely brand new and custom made. I have a connection in Xalt Energy, and was able to buy these cells for the project. These are the same cells with improved chemistry as the Kokam 75ah cells from Korea.

Every bit of the battery module was made by hand, no kit or anything. Modules are made out of clear 1/4” lexan, and the top piece is waterjet cut with little slots for the thin cell tabs. Essentially the cells are supported with foam at the bottom and the cell tabs are clamped together with aluminum bars at the tops. It is the OEM style assembly for pouch cells, but instead of welding tabs together I simply do it this way, same style as John Wayland’s White Zombie battery modules. Since they are all series connections, the aluminum does not conduct, it simply connects the tabs together and all conducting is thru the cell tabs only.

And of course the box was assembled with support brackets for mounting on the bottom, and assembled with small countersunk stainless screws all around. For more pictures check out my website hawkeyeinnovationsllc.com and go to the page for the beetle.

These modules were very difficult to build, and VERY dangerous. Those cell tabs got extremely close to each other! But it was worth it, cells can put out 1200A for 10s, and are RATED for 14,000 cycles! As I said, the identical cells are from Kokam, but the price has doubled and tripled since the project last year, and they’re no longer affordable. Xalt no longer makes the 75ah cell anymore because they’ve been spoiled by million dollar electric bus contracts.

Anyway, I’ve since switched to tesla modules as they’re great for the price and weight, and definitely cooling and heating as well.
 

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Yes, a good idea to pull out the back plate a bit.
But then the bonnet has a gap and does not fit properly, right?

Tesla modules only go up to 750 amps.
In front four modules and behind the seat four modules are already a lot of space and weight. You will not get that much performance.

Greetings Boxster-warp
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello
Yes, a good idea to pull out the back plate a bit.
But then the bonnet has a gap and does not fit properly, right?

Tesla modules only go up to 750 amps.
In front four modules and behind the seat four modules are already a lot of space and weight. You will not get that much performance.

Greetings Boxster-warp
Correct. Yes the rear apron still doesn’t fit properly and has the small gap, but to us it was much better than having a large half circle shape cut out, and having to install new latches.

No need for 8 tesla modules in a beetle, 5 would be sufficient. 5.3kWh each X 5 = 26.5 kWh. I wouldn’t discharge those modules beyond 90% DOD, so you’re left with approximately 23.9kWh usable capacity. Weighing at 55 lbs each, the Tesla pack would weigh 275 lbs.

In comparison, the current pack can be discharged to 100% DOD easily (rated for it) and has a capacity of 22.2kWh and weighs 340 lbs. As far as volume, Tesla modules would take up slightly less space, but overall pretty similar.

The only difference would be the power output. The car would drop to about 150HP instead of 200HP it currently has. But to be REALLY honest, 90% of the time we drive the beetle set on 100HP anyway lol. I added a button on the display that activates “lightning mode” which sets zilla to put out the 200HP.

There’s other ways to you can configure Tesla modules by putting more and such to achieve higher power levels. But this car was before I switched to tesla modules.

When a zilla is set at 750 battery amps instead of 1000, there’s not a world ending difference, just a slight one. But even in the beetle, going between 100HP and 200HP, majority of people can’t even notice the difference. Some people can, and notice the torque holds for longer especially at higher speeds, but when you’re launching and showing off at lower speeds, no one notices:)
 

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With the rear panel is a very good solution.
The 5 Tesla modules have only 110v voltage. Is actually too little for the warp9.
A great electric conversion, respect.
Greetings Boxster-warp
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello
With the rear panel is a very good solution.
The 5 Tesla modules have only 110v voltage. Is actually too little for the warp9.
A great electric conversion, respect.
Greetings Boxster-warp

If it is paired with a zilla z1k controller, it is not too little. The zilla will step up the voltage to whatever you specify for the warp 9 (i usually set it to 165V or so). With 5 tesla modules you are right 114V nominal system, you will get approx 120HP or so and still 350 ft lbs of torque. Still plenty of power in a lightweight beetle! I am running 130v nominal in my 1996 toyota celica convertible ev conversion, the car weighs about 1200 lbs HEAVIER than the beetle, and still plenty of power. Not as fast as the beetle obviously, not even close, but the warp 9 still runs great at lower battery pack voltages (zilla z1k controller too).
 

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Some interesting takes in here...One of the top Polo engines for a Porsche 356/912 costs about $30k and puts out less than 150hp and torque.

I would not be worried about performance with a few Tesla packs...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Some interesting takes in here...One of the top Polo engines for a Porsche 356/912 costs about $30k and puts out less than 150hp and torque.

I would not be worried about performance with a few Tesla packs...
Definitely! Although personally, I would just setup a hyper 9 system with some Tesla packs, 150HP and 162 ft lbs of torque, and set up gearing so that the acceleration is there.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The zilla will step up the voltage to whatever you specify for the warp 9 (i usually set it to 165V or so).
The controller only bucks, can't boost. You'll always need more cells to do higher voltage, but can set it to limit voltage to the motor to lower than your pack voltage.
Oh yes, you’re right! Not sure why I said that, must’ve been very tired lol
 
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