2011 Azure Dynamics (Ford) Transit Connect Fuse F35?

Ok,

Making a little progress here.

The Azure Dynamics Transit Connect uses an ECU, P/N 8M2100904 which may well be a standard Ford Transit Connect ECU.

As a community we should probably learn to flash the PROMS of the ECU to replace if one ever gets damaged.

So, disconnecting the ECU, and the Transit Connect behaved exactly the same with dash lights flashing, and no power. And the fuse F35 still burnt.

The next diagnostic test was to disconnect the Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module P/N: 105200+A, and I no longer am burning the fuse.

Replace the fuse, and reconnect the ECU, and everything seems to work. Dash. No anti-theft. I seem to be able to start, and shift into gear and get power (as much as I can while still strapped to my trailer). And both battery/charge gauges show about 3/4 full.

Remove the F35 again, and everything is dead again. So, that is a critical ECU fuse.

The Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module seems to be a critical J1772 charge controller module.

So, with some luck I'll be able to drive my van around the property shortly, but I can't start driving until I figure out the recharging.

I'm pretty sure it is that module. But, it is possible it is a downstream fault. However, I would hope the module isolates better for downstream faults.

I'm not sure if the Wake up on Charge absolutely needs to be connect to the CAN bus. I suppose it probably sends a signal not to drive while plugged in. But I do need the J1772 handshakes.

Ok, after the initial reply from Axiomatic, I haven't heard back from them.

I found this note on this forum:
Post #16 by @dougingraham takes one to the April 24, 2015 EVTV show.

A little long winded, but at about minute 51, they start talking about the wake on charge module.

On the Axiomatic, pins 1 (positive) and 8 (ground) are shorted.

The fault lies in a transorb (Transient-voltage-suppression diode), marked TZ2 on the circuit board. One has to dig it out through about 1/4" of silicone.

The transorb is apparently a redundant part, and not entirely necessary. It is designed to protect the board from over voltages. But, causes more problems instead.

At this point the Transorb is half removed, and won't be replaced. I may build in circuit protection outside of the Axiomatic box. I would also like to get the Axiomatic separated from the F35 fuse that also seems to feed at least part of the ECU.

The silicone in the device not only helps waterproof it, but there is only one screw holding the circuit board to the box (and a grounding wire). So the silicone provides support to the circuit board. I'm planning on adding a silicone sheet over the electronics before refilling the box, making any future revisions easier.

I'll try to upload some marked up photos soon.

More future testing, but the vehicle seems to move.

Unfortunately my charge testing yesterday acted like it was charging, but seemed to slightly discharge the battery rather than charge it. More testing soon.

Ok, for the promised photos....

The Offending F35 Fuse, 10A. Described by EVTV as blowing like a flash bulb. Under Hood fusebox.



The Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module, P/N: 105200+A. Pins 1 & 8 are Positive/Ground and are shorted.



Two screws on top stabilizes the plug, 4 screws on the bottom. When one opens it, one is presented with grey silicone. ground strap to the middle of the bottom cover, and to the only screw holding the circuit board to the case.



With some careful picking, one can reveal much of the circuit board. It would be easier if one knew where to dig.

This Tranzorb TZ2 is part of circuit over voltage protection. But, instead of protecting the device, it blows it up.

It is a redundant circuit, and can be removed.

Incidentally, there are 5 pins opposite to the ground strap that penetrate to both sides of the circuit board. These may be a serial connection for programming. Normally buried in silicone.







I added a silicone sheet over the top of the circuit board before refilling with silicone. I chose to put the silicone back in in case it helped stabilize the board (only 1 screw in the board). Thus, if I need to, I may be able to open it up again without digging through 1/4" of silicone (I hope).

I left the Tranzorb TZ2 out, and am currently running without it. I'd like to split the wake on charge off of the F35 (also connected to the ECU). And, potentially add some circuit protection outside of the Wake on Charge module, so voltage spikes would get trapped before the module, and faults would not kill the module. The old Tranzorb was one of the first device on the pin 1/8 power bus on the circuit board.

The Azure is charging fine on 110V (albeit slowly). I am now up to an estimated 80 mile range which has the indicator pegged, and should be close to original specs (for a 11 year old van. Miles are just now hitting 16,000 miles.

I haven't run it to zero charge, but the estimated range seems to be indicative of the movement of the Full/Empty gauge.

It took a few days for the range to settle down. During that time I was regularly disconnecting the battery and plugging in and removing the wake on charge module before I was ready to refill with silicone and remount.

Without knowing the actual battery state, I presume the ECU was both learning my driving style, as well as the BMS evening out the charge level across all battery modules.



Since I bought the Azure Transit Connect as a non-runner (not my plan), I can't say for sure the cause of the fault. The EZTV suggested that they might have hit it with an 80A "starting" current from their charger. I only used a 2/10A charger on the dead battery I got it with. However, it is quite possible that the vendor before me also would have hit it with a high current charger.

When I got it (after charging), I was getting the Ford Security/Lock icon blinking (anti-theft system) which indicates a dead ECU, and the F35 fault.

@Wayner,

I did a little experimenting a couple of days ago. My van seems to be governed at about 66 MPH by the speedometer.

Carrying a little weight, it seems to lose power above 60 MPH, and can't maintain the max speed going up very minimal slopes. And, it doesn't seem to get any faster than 66 MPH likely due to the regen cycle.

Most of my driving is on rural/suburban roads with a speed limit of 55 MPH, and I had just not noticed that the speed seems to be governed. The brief sections of freeway that I've been on have either a 55 MPH or 65 MPH speed limit.

Anyway, I simply had never noticed the speed was governed.

I got my van last summer with about 15,000 miles, a blown F35 fuse as above. It had about a 50% charge, but was incapable of recharging/driving due to the F35 and Wake on Charge problems.

I got impatient to start driving, and it recharged slowly, so I may have taken it out before a full charge. Nonetheless, I think the estimated mileage slowly increased as the van learned my driving, and l likely was equalizing the battery pack with early charge cycles.

i am careful driving. I try to not mash on the accelerator, and only lightly use the brakes when absolutely necessary. And, typically drive not much faster than about 45 MPH.