DIY Electric Car Forums banner

2011 Azure Dynamics (Ford) Transit Connect Fuse F35?

3138 Views 16 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Wayner
A non-running Azure Dynamics Transit Connect followed me home. Low mileage with 15K miles.

  • Vehicle Doesn't Move
  • Tried 3 different chargers. Either displays "Fault", or doesn't charge. Charging LEDS on Transit don't light up.
  • Main battery gauge shows 0% and 0 range.
  • Bunch of dash LEDs blinking including security fault. Car came with a cut key fob which will lock/unlock, as well as an uncut fob that doesn't seem to be programmed.
  • Radio works, lights work, cabin fan works, door locks work, and electric windows work.
  • Plug in generic ECM reader and it fails to power up.
  • Transmission shifter will move through entire range.

Looking at fuses, under the hood, F35 is a 10A fuse that was blown. Replacing the fuse with ignition off, and it immediately blows both a 10A and a 20A fuse. POW. I also seem to have have a moderate systemic 12V battery drain.

According the Azure owner's manual (online):
F35 Low Pwr Loads, Batt Mini-10a (not very informative) :(

There is also a high level "Index" wiring diagram online that seems to show F35 leading to: FD_15S-LE15 G 1.0 TXLPE, and leading to a box labeled with "Headlamp Assembly Left" and FD_C835-6.

I tested the headlamps (didn't do high/low), but all outside lights seem to be functional.

Now, I have also found a Ford Transit Connect user manual online, and it lists:
F35 10 A* PCM ignition

Ok, so the Ford should have:
PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
ECM (Engine Control Module)
TCM (Transmission Control Module)

What I'm stuck with is what this fuse actually does, and why it is eating fuses. Does Azure use some kind of PCM (Powertrain Control Module)?

The online diagram doesn't seem to list the actual wire color codes, and seems to be designed to connect to other sub diagrams.

I could be barking up the wrong tree, but I'd like to do basic diagnostics before dropping the main battery.

I've downloaded what I believe is the Azure ECU reader, but I haven't tried it yet. Cables?
See less See more
1 - 10 of 17 Posts

Making a little progress here.

The Azure Dynamics Transit Connect uses an ECU, P/N 8M2100904 which may well be a standard Ford Transit Connect ECU.

As a community we should probably learn to flash the PROMS of the ECU to replace if one ever gets damaged.

So, disconnecting the ECU, and the Transit Connect behaved exactly the same with dash lights flashing, and no power. And the fuse F35 still burnt.

The next diagnostic test was to disconnect the Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module P/N: 105200+A, and I no longer am burning the fuse.

Replace the fuse, and reconnect the ECU, and everything seems to work. Dash. No anti-theft. I seem to be able to start, and shift into gear and get power (as much as I can while still strapped to my trailer). And both battery/charge gauges show about 3/4 full.

Remove the F35 again, and everything is dead again. So, that is a critical ECU fuse.

The Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module seems to be a critical J1772 charge controller module.

So, with some luck I'll be able to drive my van around the property shortly, but I can't start driving until I figure out the recharging.

I'm pretty sure it is that module. But, it is possible it is a downstream fault. However, I would hope the module isolates better for downstream faults.

I'm not sure if the Wake up on Charge absolutely needs to be connect to the CAN bus. I suppose it probably sends a signal not to drive while plugged in. But I do need the J1772 handshakes.
See less See more
Ok, Axiomatic is still in business, and apparently have the Wake on Charge module. The initial message was quick, but I'm still waiting for sales. Otherwise, it may require more mods to get it to work.

I opened the device, and it is full of silicone. So, it'll be a mess to clean if I need to try to repair it or further diagnose it.

Pins 1 (Bat +) and 8 (Bat -) have almost no resistance across them (thus the blown fuse).

With a bit of optimism, I called my insurance broker today. They wanted to mark the Azure Transit Connect as "Commercial". I ended up having to change underwriters.
Ok, after the initial reply from Axiomatic, I haven't heard back from them.

I found this note on this forum:
Post #16 by @dougingraham takes one to the April 24, 2015 EVTV show.

A little long winded, but at about minute 51, they start talking about the wake on charge module.

On the Axiomatic, pins 1 (positive) and 8 (ground) are shorted.

The fault lies in a transorb (Transient-voltage-suppression diode), marked TZ2 on the circuit board. One has to dig it out through about 1/4" of silicone.

The transorb is apparently a redundant part, and not entirely necessary. It is designed to protect the board from over voltages. But, causes more problems instead.

At this point the Transorb is half removed, and won't be replaced. I may build in circuit protection outside of the Axiomatic box. I would also like to get the Axiomatic separated from the F35 fuse that also seems to feed at least part of the ECU.

The silicone in the device not only helps waterproof it, but there is only one screw holding the circuit board to the box (and a grounding wire). So the silicone provides support to the circuit board. I'm planning on adding a silicone sheet over the electronics before refilling the box, making any future revisions easier.

I'll try to upload some marked up photos soon.

More future testing, but the vehicle seems to move.

Unfortunately my charge testing yesterday acted like it was charging, but seemed to slightly discharge the battery rather than charge it. More testing soon.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Ok, I had tried to plug in the wake up on charge module part way as I wasn't done with it. It works better when fully seated. The car charges slower than molasses on ice. :( But it is working. Perhaps I'll hunt for a hotter charger in case I want to mooch power from Mom's house.

I got it registered. I HATE the DMV. Then off for the maiden voyage. 17 miles, and the battery indicator was down by about 25%, but the range indicator dropped to about 20 miles. It is cutting it close to the minimum range I need for it to be useful and safe.

Nonetheless, the thing is going to be fun. for a minivan.
(y) (y) (y)
After complete assembly, charge to the maximum from zero and drive until completely discharged. Our car began to correctly show the range after, probably, the fifth charge-discharge. As far as I know, all ev-cars need any time to recalculate the battery capacity.
Photos coming soon.

As far as the battery...
Before I got the Wake on Charge refilled with silicone, I was disconnecting the 12V and plugging and unplugging the Wake on Charge with every charging cycle, which may have confused the ECU.

I also wonder if the main battery modules become unbalanced over time, and it may take a few recharging cycles to get them balanced once again.

My last charging cycle brought me up to about 10 miles past 60 (so 70 miles) estimated range.

So far I'm trying to keep it under 40 or 50 miles a day, and not completely depleting the battery. I would like to try a drive to Portland which is just over 100 miles as the crow flies. But, if I avoid the freeway, it gets significantly longer.

I'll try to get a hot 220V charger to experiment with and observe charging times before I head out on the road for a longer trip.
Ok, for the promised photos....

The Offending F35 Fuse, 10A. Described by EVTV as blowing like a flash bulb. Under Hood fusebox.

Audio equipment Automotive tire Gas Electronic device Font

The Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module, P/N: 105200+A. Pins 1 & 8 are Positive/Ground and are shorted.

Blue Rectangle Gas Font Electric blue

Two screws on top stabilizes the plug, 4 screws on the bottom. When one opens it, one is presented with grey silicone. ground strap to the middle of the bottom cover, and to the only screw holding the circuit board to the case.

Rectangle Font Gadget Electric blue Cable

With some careful picking, one can reveal much of the circuit board. It would be easier if one knew where to dig. ;)

This Tranzorb TZ2 is part of circuit over voltage protection. But, instead of protecting the device, it blows it up.

It is a redundant circuit, and can be removed.

Incidentally, there are 5 pins opposite to the ground strap that penetrate to both sides of the circuit board. These may be a serial connection for programming. Normally buried in silicone.

Circuit component Rectangle Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Font

Circuit component Passive circuit component Light Product Green

Product Blue Paint Tool Rectangle

I added a silicone sheet over the top of the circuit board before refilling with silicone. I chose to put the silicone back in in case it helped stabilize the board (only 1 screw in the board). Thus, if I need to, I may be able to open it up again without digging through 1/4" of silicone (I hope).

I left the Tranzorb TZ2 out, and am currently running without it. I'd like to split the wake on charge off of the F35 (also connected to the ECU). And, potentially add some circuit protection outside of the Wake on Charge module, so voltage spikes would get trapped before the module, and faults would not kill the module. The old Tranzorb was one of the first device on the pin 1/8 power bus on the circuit board.

The Azure is charging fine on 110V (albeit slowly). I am now up to an estimated 80 mile range which has the indicator pegged, and should be close to original specs (for a 11 year old van. Miles are just now hitting 16,000 miles.

I haven't run it to zero charge, but the estimated range seems to be indicative of the movement of the Full/Empty gauge.

It took a few days for the range to settle down. During that time I was regularly disconnecting the battery and plugging in and removing the wake on charge module before I was ready to refill with silicone and remount.

Without knowing the actual battery state, I presume the ECU was both learning my driving style, as well as the BMS evening out the charge level across all battery modules.

Speedometer Motor vehicle Gauge Odometer Steering part

Since I bought the Azure Transit Connect as a non-runner (not my plan), I can't say for sure the cause of the fault. The EZTV suggested that they might have hit it with an 80A "starting" current from their charger. I only used a 2/10A charger on the dead battery I got it with. However, it is quite possible that the vendor before me also would have hit it with a high current charger.

When I got it (after charging), I was getting the Ford Security/Lock icon blinking (anti-theft system) which indicates a dead ECU, and the F35 fault.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I see your van charges to 80 miles, show off lol. For some reason my van is restricted to 56 miles and 62 mph. Do anyone know how to remove the restrictor off the mileage
50 miles or so is the most I've done. But, I do watch the gauge which is frequently pegged to 80. Down to about 78 this winter. I don't know how accurate the gauge is. It seems to be fairly representative. But, I am careful never to run it down to zero. In part because there are few places to juice up along the road. And it is excrutiatingly slow to juice up at 110V, and still not speedy at 220V.

Where do you see 56? Is that on the gauge?

Perhaps the battery pack is wearing down.

For the most part I avoid the freeway, but I haven't ever felt there was a speed limiter on the van.

Could there be a 3rd party black box added as a limiter? I'm not quite sure what to look for, although i think one person mentioned seeing an extra box in their van.

I did a little experimenting a couple of days ago. My van seems to be governed at about 66 MPH by the speedometer.

Carrying a little weight, it seems to lose power above 60 MPH, and can't maintain the max speed going up very minimal slopes. And, it doesn't seem to get any faster than 66 MPH likely due to the regen cycle.

Most of my driving is on rural/suburban roads with a speed limit of 55 MPH, and I had just not noticed that the speed seems to be governed. The brief sections of freeway that I've been on have either a 55 MPH or 65 MPH speed limit.

Anyway, I simply had never noticed the speed was governed.

I got my van last summer with about 15,000 miles, a blown F35 fuse as above. It had about a 50% charge, but was incapable of recharging/driving due to the F35 and Wake on Charge problems.

I got impatient to start driving, and it recharged slowly, so I may have taken it out before a full charge. Nonetheless, I think the estimated mileage slowly increased as the van learned my driving, and l likely was equalizing the battery pack with early charge cycles.

i am careful driving. I try to not mash on the accelerator, and only lightly use the brakes when absolutely necessary. And, typically drive not much faster than about 45 MPH.
See less See more
Are you sure it was a WOC problem?

As I mentioned above, one can test the bad WOC that has Pins 1 & 8 are Positive/Ground and shorted (thus causing the fuse to blow). Simply unplugging the WOC, and the fuse becomes stable, and ignition should work.

I have a van that isn't charging/working. And, I currently believe the problem was that it had sat for a period of time allowing the battery to deeply discharge, and preventing it from normally recharging.

There is a 3rd party that makes a J1772 controller for relatively cheap. I've thought about trying one if I could match plugs with what is in the van.
1 - 10 of 17 Posts