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2011 Azure Dynamics (Ford) Transit Connect Fuse F35?

3225 Views 16 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Wayner
A non-running Azure Dynamics Transit Connect followed me home. Low mileage with 15K miles.

Symptoms:
  • Vehicle Doesn't Move
  • Tried 3 different chargers. Either displays "Fault", or doesn't charge. Charging LEDS on Transit don't light up.
  • Main battery gauge shows 0% and 0 range.
  • Bunch of dash LEDs blinking including security fault. Car came with a cut key fob which will lock/unlock, as well as an uncut fob that doesn't seem to be programmed.
  • Radio works, lights work, cabin fan works, door locks work, and electric windows work.
  • Plug in generic ECM reader and it fails to power up.
  • Transmission shifter will move through entire range.

Looking at fuses, under the hood, F35 is a 10A fuse that was blown. Replacing the fuse with ignition off, and it immediately blows both a 10A and a 20A fuse. POW. I also seem to have have a moderate systemic 12V battery drain.

According the Azure owner's manual (online):
F35 Low Pwr Loads, Batt Mini-10a (not very informative) :(

There is also a high level "Index" wiring diagram online that seems to show F35 leading to: FD_15S-LE15 G 1.0 TXLPE, and leading to a box labeled with "Headlamp Assembly Left" and FD_C835-6.

I tested the headlamps (didn't do high/low), but all outside lights seem to be functional.

Now, I have also found a Ford Transit Connect user manual online, and it lists:
F35 10 A* PCM ignition

Ok, so the Ford should have:
PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
ECM (Engine Control Module)
and
TCM (Transmission Control Module)

What I'm stuck with is what this fuse actually does, and why it is eating fuses. Does Azure use some kind of PCM (Powertrain Control Module)?

The online diagram doesn't seem to list the actual wire color codes, and seems to be designed to connect to other sub diagrams.

I could be barking up the wrong tree, but I'd like to do basic diagnostics before dropping the main battery.

I've downloaded what I believe is the Azure ECU reader, but I haven't tried it yet. Cables?
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Ok, for the promised photos....

The Offending F35 Fuse, 10A. Described by EVTV as blowing like a flash bulb. Under Hood fusebox.

View attachment 131608

The Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module, P/N: 105200+A. Pins 1 & 8 are Positive/Ground and are shorted.

View attachment 131609

Two screws on top stabilizes the plug, 4 screws on the bottom. When one opens it, one is presented with grey silicone. ground strap to the middle of the bottom cover, and to the only screw holding the circuit board to the case.

View attachment 131610

With some careful picking, one can reveal much of the circuit board. It would be easier if one knew where to dig. ;)

This Tranzorb TZ2 is part of circuit over voltage protection. But, instead of protecting the device, it blows it up.

It is a redundant circuit, and can be removed.

Incidentally, there are 5 pins opposite to the ground strap that penetrate to both sides of the circuit board. These may be a serial connection for programming. Normally buried in silicone.

View attachment 131612

View attachment 131611

View attachment 131613

I added a silicone sheet over the top of the circuit board before refilling with silicone. I chose to put the silicone back in in case it helped stabilize the board (only 1 screw in the board). Thus, if I need to, I may be able to open it up again without digging through 1/4" of silicone (I hope).

I left the Tranzorb TZ2 out, and am currently running without it. I'd like to split the wake on charge off of the F35 (also connected to the ECU). And, potentially add some circuit protection outside of the Wake on Charge module, so voltage spikes would get trapped before the module, and faults would not kill the module. The old Tranzorb was one of the first device on the pin 1/8 power bus on the circuit board.

The Azure is charging fine on 110V (albeit slowly). I am now up to an estimated 80 mile range which has the indicator pegged, and should be close to original specs (for a 11 year old van. Miles are just now hitting 16,000 miles.

I haven't run it to zero charge, but the estimated range seems to be indicative of the movement of the Full/Empty gauge.

It took a few days for the range to settle down. During that time I was regularly disconnecting the battery and plugging in and removing the wake on charge module before I was ready to refill with silicone and remount.

Without knowing the actual battery state, I presume the ECU was both learning my driving style, as well as the BMS evening out the charge level across all battery modules.

View attachment 131614

Since I bought the Azure Transit Connect as a non-runner (not my plan), I can't say for sure the cause of the fault. The EZTV suggested that they might have hit it with an 80A "starting" current from their charger. I only used a 2/10A charger on the dead battery I got it with. However, it is quite possible that the vendor before me also would have hit it with a high current charger.

When I got it (after charging), I was getting the Ford Security/Lock icon blinking (anti-theft system) which indicates a dead ECU, and the F35 fault.
I see your van charges to 80 miles, show off lol. For some reason my van is restricted to 56 miles and 62 mph. Do anyone know how to remove the restrictor off the mileage
Ok, for the promised photos....

The Offending F35 Fuse, 10A. Described by EVTV as blowing like a flash bulb. Under Hood fusebox.

View attachment 131608

The Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module, P/N: 105200+A. Pins 1 & 8 are Positive/Ground and are shorted.

View attachment 131609

Two screws on top stabilizes the plug, 4 screws on the bottom. When one opens it, one is presented with grey silicone. ground strap to the middle of the bottom cover, and to the only screw holding the circuit board to the case.

View attachment 131610

With some careful picking, one can reveal much of the circuit board. It would be easier if one knew where to dig. ;)

This Tranzorb TZ2 is part of circuit over voltage protection. But, instead of protecting the device, it blows it up.

It is a redundant circuit, and can be removed.

Incidentally, there are 5 pins opposite to the ground strap that penetrate to both sides of the circuit board. These may be a serial connection for programming. Normally buried in silicone.

View attachment 131612

View attachment 131611

View attachment 131613

I added a silicone sheet over the top of the circuit board before refilling with silicone. I chose to put the silicone back in in case it helped stabilize the board (only 1 screw in the board). Thus, if I need to, I may be able to open it up again without digging through 1/4" of silicone (I hope).

I left the Tranzorb TZ2 out, and am currently running without it. I'd like to split the wake on charge off of the F35 (also connected to the ECU). And, potentially add some circuit protection outside of the Wake on Charge module, so voltage spikes would get trapped before the module, and faults would not kill the module. The old Tranzorb was one of the first device on the pin 1/8 power bus on the circuit board.

The Azure is charging fine on 110V (albeit slowly). I am now up to an estimated 80 mile range which has the indicator pegged, and should be close to original specs (for a 11 year old van. Miles are just now hitting 16,000 miles.

I haven't run it to zero charge, but the estimated range seems to be indicative of the movement of the Full/Empty gauge.

It took a few days for the range to settle down. During that time I was regularly disconnecting the battery and plugging in and removing the wake on charge module before I was ready to refill with silicone and remount.

Without knowing the actual battery state, I presume the ECU was both learning my driving style, as well as the BMS evening out the charge level across all battery modules.

View attachment 131614

Since I bought the Azure Transit Connect as a non-runner (not my plan), I can't say for sure the cause of the fault. The EZTV suggested that they might have hit it with an 80A "starting" current from their charger. I only used a 2/10A charger on the dead battery I got it with. However, it is quite possible that the vendor before me also would have hit it with a high current charger.

When I got it (after charging), I was getting the Ford Security/Lock icon blinking (anti-theft system) which indicates a dead ECU, and the F35 fault.
Ive done the same as you, bought a van with a faulty wake on charge module, removed the silicone and removed the responder and now the van will start and run but I have nothing still when I try to charge it?
Are you sure it was a WOC problem?

As I mentioned above, one can test the bad WOC that has Pins 1 & 8 are Positive/Ground and shorted (thus causing the fuse to blow). Simply unplugging the WOC, and the fuse becomes stable, and ignition should work.

I have a van that isn't charging/working. And, I currently believe the problem was that it had sat for a period of time allowing the battery to deeply discharge, and preventing it from normally recharging.

There is a 3rd party that makes a J1772 controller for relatively cheap. I've thought about trying one if I could match plugs with what is in the van.
Yeah wake on charge module is shot, if I remove it the van starts and drives but it just won’t charge
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