Last winter the original owner turned on the defrost, came back 20 minutes later to find a dead Leaf. She had the 12 volt battery charged and the car would turn on, shift to neutral, but wouldn't go into Drive or Reverse, no heater, no a/c and trouble lights showed up on the dash and no regular or quick charging.
She had it towed to Nissan and they said they didn't know what was wrong and they could throw a lot of parts at it and it may cost more than the car was worth. So she sold the car.
Owner number two buys the car, brings it to another Nissan who said it needs a new DC to DC junction box and inverter. He has a local ICE car mechanic do the repairs and it still didn't fix it. The parts were from a wrecking yard and unknown is they are good parts. I did pull the original DC to DC junction box apart and all 4 of the HV fuses are good.
I buy it from him and see the following codes.
C118C 0109 ABS EV/HEV System BRC-126
C1A6E 0109 BRAKE EV/HEV System BR-146
C1A70 0109 BRAKE Brake Control System BR-160
The previous codes will always come up if the below faults are displayed.
P3176 00C0 EV/HEV Inverter Condenser EVC-238
P311C EV/HEV High Voltage Sys EVC-204
Note:
(All following systems are disabled due to: P3176
FAIL-SAFE PATTERN
Pattern A: Quick charge prohibited
Pattern B: Normal charge prohibited
Pattern C: READY OFF
Pattern D: High-voltage power supply stop
If DTC P3176 is displayed with DTC ..P311C.. perform diagnosis for DTC ..P311C..)
I have a service manual and while going through the factory service manual, it says to check the high voltage connection at the compressor, ptc heater and some other steps.
With the PTC heater I set my volt meter to 200k Ohms and get a reading of 71.8 which is greater than what the test said. The test said it should be 3 k ohms or more.
I unplugged my 2012 Nissan Leaf and it shows 47.3. I did the test at the same time a few feet away from each other. So 71.8 is more that 3 k ohms right?
I have 4 volt meters and they all seem to be a little different on the readings. Maybe its time for another one. If you reverse the leads, it sometimes doesn't even show a number.
Oh and every hour the contactors and relays at the battery will clickit click click for a second and do that again every hour. I took at the traction battery disconnect plug and that stopped the contactors in the traction battery to stop, but I still hear the relay in the box on the drivers side go on and off. There is nothing plugged into the OBD port by the way.
Thoughts?
I could pull parts off my daily driver and swap them to see if it will help clear the codes.....