I don't have any questions or deep technical comments, but I do think this vehicle is an inspired choice for a EV conversion: moderate gas-engine performance to match, easy electric motor mounting, and a huge compartment just waiting for batteries!
Thanks for the comments. I now have insurance and going to venture out a littel furthe today. Mainly to get my DMV inspection so I can registar it. My new Elcon charger has shipped so should be installing that next week and still need some gages.
Here is couple more pics.
Not sure of your location but if there is a local EV assocation and you aren't a member you should meet up. Also keep your eyes open for an opportunity to get the batteries from a wrecked nissan leaf - considerably more range with the same weight vs. those AGMs.
New charger installed PFC2500, same mounting pattern as old one so, made for easy install.
Also finished the charger plug in holder. I still need to install gauges.
This thing is really fun to drive and is pretty quick. I cant decide if the Gear Reduction Boxes help or hurt the performance or range.
I have put about 20miles on it and had one loose battery cable. Its sitting on the charger now until I see a green light.
? When I leave in 2nd gear and rev it out, the motor really start to make some noise, I cant tell if balance issue with clutch and flywheel or just the sound it makes. I do not have RPM gauge so not sure on what RPMs I am at. I also need to learn the most effeicent way to drive it whith the throttle 1/2 throttle and let it build speed or mashing to floor doesnt seem to make it go quicker. Any tips?
I installed Amp gauge in the stock fuel gauge position. NIce know what is going on with the motor. I am looking into Volts gauge and or various gauge driver. I like the idea of using the stock fuel gauge for state of charge. Not sure if I would work.
I have been driving this thing everyday at lunch around my town. It is so much fun to drive.
Not to much to report just been driving to get lunch everyday.
The controller seems to be getting pretty hot after 10miles, I am not sure what normal temp is or if I am pushing it with the 153V volts, after 10 miles the volts are dropping to 147 and seems to loss some power. I thought about installing one more battery and up to 165 volts but that might be to much for the curtis 1231C, input anyone? If I put in one more battery the charger has to go back and get reprogramed, so I may just wait on that for now.
I still here some growl or vibration but its at the upper end of 1st gear some end of 2nd. Its time to shift when that noise like over reving maybe? Overall a little more quiet since I changed the trannsmison and reduction box oil and put the door panel back on. It really needs some new shocks, tranny and motor mounts.
I am doing a test now because after 10 miles of driving It feels like I am losing power and amps falling off. The motor is pretty warm and the controller seems warmer, but the battery pack still has 148Volts. So today I drove 7 miles still felt ok and battery pack 149Volts, motor warm, controller hot. Parked it let it cool off and went out for another drive and felt like almost fresh charge. I am going to keep doing this until the battery pack down to 140 volts and see how it goes. I am thinking controller is getting to hot and limitting the power. Its a cutris 1231C and I havent heard any type of warning that would tell me getting to hot.
The oil change did make the reduction gears quieter. I reved up the motor and really dont feel any strange vibrations, I think it the motor gets louder with higher rpms spinning the flywheel and clutch.
I didnt like how warm controller was gettting and was thinking the shunt 500 amp is putting out more heat right under the controller and causing some restriction. It was also really heating up the wires. I decide to go elimate the shunt and go direct from controller to motor. No amp gauge for now. I did a short drive yesterday and felt more responsive and controller was warm but not hot. I will be doing a longer drive today so, we'll see.
In the pic you can see the shunt directly under the controller, not the best spot. I also should probably shorten the cable to the motor.
Use a hall effect pickup instead of the shunt. You can get them that take a 5V supply and put 0-5v out proportional to their amps range rating. No resistance on the big wire necessary. You can use a resistor network off of the output to get the right output for your existing analog gauge.
I'm doing exactly this in my xB.
Here is the type I am using: (the 200a nominal one IIRC)
madderscience, your XB looks cool and awesome range of 100miles.
I am still loosing power around 10-12 miles, but pack is still at 148 volts. I let the truck rest and cool off, the power comes back. Not much else to report.
I spent a hour getting the driver side rear shock off, it took abrasive cut off and heat to finally get the rusted bolt out. New coil overs installed and you can see the gear reduction boxes. also a pic of my 29+ ebike 48 Volt hub motor, barley street legal it does 30mph.
New front coil overs on rides som much nicer. I've been cleaning up getting it ready for VW show this weekend. I stripped off white paint on roof down to OG dove blue. I also installed hub caps and hub caps. I lilke how it they look.
I added one more deep cycle battery to make a total of 13, upping the voltage to 163Volts. and When 14miles and still have charge left. Seems like the motor is more effecient with the higher volts and the little extra range helps. Also the controller did not heat up as much.
Now I have to send the charger back and have it reprogramed for 13 batteries.
I entered the truck in a VW car show this past weekend and won Best Custom. I had a ton of people checking it out and taking pictures of it. It was pretty cool having the only EV VW there and winning an award, even though one of the event organzier was givng me trouble saying air cooled only. I said it is air cooled ha. He is an engine builder and I had suspected trouble from him. It was a fun event and good turn out.
I would be concerned that you are pulling lots of current from the lead batteries and that is why it is losing power. Voltage sag on lead batteries is a problem. I suggest getting your amp meter running on the battery cables and monitor how much current is being drawn in acceleration and constant speed driving. The sag may also be why it accelerates the same at 1/2 and full throttle, the batteries cannot give the controller enough power? What capacity and type are your lead batteries?
Otherwise awesome conversion. And as ever, simplicity wins. Congrats sir.
I been stripping off some of the green paint getting down to the OG paint. Thinking about starting some body work but not really wanting to.
I also got my charger back and it set up for 5 to 14 batteries. Easy to change cruve. I installed one more battery, total 13 and have more range. 165-167Volts. Controller is recommended 144 volts. 13 was better so I thought add one more 14 total and runs even better gets up over 40mph quick. Controller maxes out at 177Volts, my charger charges the batteries up to 178 volts. Now controller will not turn on. I went back to 13 went for a short drive and burned up a few volts. Went back hooked up 14 battery at around 170 votls and really runs good. Bummer controller not turning on 1 or 2 volts. I had to change charger program back to 78 cells(see slowly learning some terminology) 165volts. It would be nice to use the 14th battery.
Now I am just driving charge, repeat.
I also have front disc brakes that I need to put on but mechanic is being a pill, saying he doesnt know if he can work on EV. He likes to build engines. I can do it myself but just want to have him knock it out. I haven't heard from him for two weeks. Funny why wouldn't be more interested in it.
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