I can't live without my JLD404s. Can't beat it at $65.
95 Metro lithium upgrade
The motor: ADC 8'"
The controller: Raptor 1200
The charger: Manzanita pfc20
The batteries: 45 Tornado 100ah cells.
BMS: Cell log 8. I have been reading up on this, and like what I see. I will top balance the pack initially, and view it from time to time, but I do intend to use the high and low voltage signals ro protect my cells.
Update: I ended up installing an Orion BMS
The instrumentation: Looking for ideas. I have a dead Xantrex in there right now, so basically I have nothing. I am looking for ideas for simple cost effective display.
The controller: Raptor 1200
The charger: Manzanita pfc20
The batteries: 45 Tornado 100ah cells.
BMS: Cell log 8. I have been reading up on this, and like what I see. I will top balance the pack initially, and view it from time to time, but I do intend to use the high and low voltage signals ro protect my cells.
Update: I ended up installing an Orion BMS
The instrumentation: Looking for ideas. I have a dead Xantrex in there right now, so basically I have nothing. I am looking for ideas for simple cost effective display.
1 - 20 of 91 Posts
Yes, plus shipping. < $90-100 all in.
Yea, these look like a good deal. I just came across some controversial discussion on this vs the evdisplay, so it just got more complicated for me. From what I understand, the evdisplay is made by an open source guy on this forum, which boosts his credibility in my opinion. Now I have to track this down and see who I want to do business with as well. Any comments on this are welcome.
I am seeing this meter at jack richards for 175$
I think I like the jld404 more. Where do you get it for under 100$
raptor 1200 in a metro? you still have a transmission?!?The motor: ADC 8'"
The controller: Raptor 1200
The charger: Manzanita pfc20
The batteries: 45 Tornado 100ah cells.
BMS: Cell log 8. I have been reading up on this, and like what I see. I will top balance the pack initially, and view it from time to time, but I do intend to use the high and low voltage signals ro protect my cells.
The instrumentation: Looking for ideas. I have a dead Xantrex in there right now, so basically I have nothing. I am looking for ideas for simple cost effective display.
I have used the CycleAnalyst, which is very affordable shunt technology solution... The early one I bought was not build for HV so I have some problems with it floating past zero when charging, and it is less accurate when temp changes. The newer ones are better I think. I have a large display dash mount format one in the Miata which seems to be more stable.
I also have an evDisplay which is Hall technology was affordable for next conversion but have not used it yet.
Probably same place Jack gets his...lightobject is one hit above him on a google search.I think I like the jld404 more. Where do you get it for under 100$
You can also get a variety of compatible shunts there.
It looks like jacks includes a shunt. The one for 68 does not say if it has a shunt. This car is equipped with a shunt with leads going to the inop xantrex. I do not know much about shunts yet, and I can not see any markings on the one I have. Is there a way to determine if this one will be appropriate? It is big and heavy and has a brown composite board and was used with 20 6 volt trojans.
Do you have a picture of it? Most American shunts are 50mv and not compatible with most Chinese meters which need 75mv shunts.
You need one sized for at least your average current, but don't get one under 200A as they're kinda flimsy. http://www.lightobject.com/Search.aspx?k=shunt
Also, note, the JLD404 is $65 here. What you're looking at for $68 is not the right meter.
You need one sized for at least your average current, but don't get one under 200A as they're kinda flimsy. http://www.lightobject.com/Search.aspx?k=shunt
Also, note, the JLD404 is $65 here. What you're looking at for $68 is not the right meter.
Yeah, looks like an American style 50mv shunt, likely 500A. Are you sure there aren't any markings under that crud somewhere?
I looked everywhere. This thing was converted in 1999, and I have no idea when it went in. I can tell you that it is heavy though. Is there a good way to test it to see if it is any good? (I am not sure if they go bad) Just wondering if this could be what is wrong with the xantrex. The display is blank and dead, 12v were present on the back of the display.
It's probably still good, but the only way to know for sure it's characteristics would be to apply a known current and measure the voltage drop. You'd have to be able to measure a 50mv drop under a 500A load to confirm my guess.
The shunt would only affect the reading on the Xantrex, not its display. If an LCD goes blank it's not getting power (bad fuse?) or part of the circuit is fried.
The shunt would only affect the reading on the Xantrex, not its display. If an LCD goes blank it's not getting power (bad fuse?) or part of the circuit is fried.
if you already have a shunt, it will probably be ok as they are sized to max amps you expect to put thru producing a 'typical' voltage for the meter. likke a 500a-50mV is pretty typical. Going from memory, I think both the evDisplay and CycleAnalyst expect 0-50mV output to the meter.... not sure if they can handle 0-75mV....It looks like jacks includes a shunt. The one for 68 does not say if it has a shunt. This car is equipped with a shunt with leads going to the inop xantrex. I do not know much about shunts yet, and I can not see any markings on the one I have. Is there a way to determine if this one will be appropriate? It is big and heavy and has a brown composite board and was used with 20 6 volt trojans.
the cycle analysts I know require that the shunt is on the NEGATIVE leg of the traction pack, I dunno about the other ones.
2
Here is an ebay link to a 1000 amp 75mv shunt you can use with the meter from lightobject. Buy the meter from them and get your shunt on ebay. I am using the 1000 amp but I am sure you could use the lower 800 amp too. There are a few different versions for $20 or less each on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000A-75mV-...219?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a39f35f3
![]()
Actually for this one its $27 bucks.
![]()
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mM5cIQvCCkwf1R73NGrWIFA.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000A-75mV-...219?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a39f35f3
Actually for this one its $27 bucks.
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mM5cIQvCCkwf1R73NGrWIFA.jpg
Get one with the JLD direct from Lightobject
(and BTW, 50mV shunts work with them, you just have to play around with the scales on the JLD. Jack goes over this in one of his blogs).
500A:
http://www.lightobject.com/500A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P217.aspx
800A:
http://www.lightobject.com/800A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P686.aspx
1000A:
http://www.lightobject.com/1000A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P687.aspx
(and BTW, 50mV shunts work with them, you just have to play around with the scales on the JLD. Jack goes over this in one of his blogs).
500A:
http://www.lightobject.com/500A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P217.aspx
800A:
http://www.lightobject.com/800A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P686.aspx
1000A:
http://www.lightobject.com/1000A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P687.aspx
Unless you're converting an Escalade, Hummer, or other inefficient monstrosity you don't need a shunt over 500A.
Like cable, they're sized for continuous/average current. A shunt shouldn't need to be the size of your hand.
Like cable, they're sized for continuous/average current. A shunt shouldn't need to be the size of your hand.
Yes as Frodus points out. Get them from one source.Get one with the JLD direct from Lightobject
(and BTW, 50mV shunts work with them, you just have to play around with the scales on the JLD. Jack goes over this in one of his blogs).
500A:
http://www.lightobject.com/500A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P217.aspx
800A:
http://www.lightobject.com/800A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P686.aspx
1000A:
http://www.lightobject.com/1000A-75mV-DC-Shunt-P687.aspx
1 - 20 of 91 Posts
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