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Discussion Starter #1
The Donor


with the dreaded door latch cracking


Be Gone, Foul Beast



The major cash outlay

45 CALB 130Ah cells


It Lives!
The charger brain....

and body



and the motor comes tomorrow! (Warp 9)
 

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Nice choice. Just make sure you advance the motor in the CW direction, most Honda's are opposite the rest of the world.

With that pack you should get 50 to 60 miles if you're nice to it. I'm looking to do something similar, except with a 2001 Civic EX this spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We (my son and I) are building an Open ReVolt controller for it.

I have not noticed any noises from the CVs, but then there's a lot of ICE noise to mask it. We'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It's been awhile, but we're making progress.

Partner (son) learning the art of oil removal..... It takes a lot of height to slide that sucker out.
IMG_6718.JPG IMG_6759.JPG

IMG_6823.JPG

The dinosaur graveyard. Woo Hoo!
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Warp 9 mated to the tranny with a CanEv adapter.
IMG_6822.JPG

On the whole it's a nice adapter, but it's got a couple of places where it doesn't fit the bellhousing....
IMG_6826.JPG

Here...
IMG_6827.JPG

and here
IMG_6828.JPG

The latter is going to be kind of a bitch to cover.
 

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As a WAS use aluminum sheet to make a cover to fit the bell housing and sandwich it between the adapter and bell housing. Of course, you would have to use appropriate sealing material.

Hi Salty
Why would you want to seal it?

Most bellhousings are effectively open - you normally have a telltale hole at the bottom specifically to let the oil out if an engine or gearbox seal leaks
Just to warn you that you have a problem

You don't want pebbles in there! but otherwise why worry?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Rear battery box fab and mounting. 27 Calb 130Ah cells in the back.

Del Sol trunk................................................Cutout to let the box sit low and fit heightwise
IMG_7197sm.JPG IMG_7200sm.JPG

Rough box.................... ................................ Box mounted
IMG_7198sm.JPG IMG_7244sm.JPG

Insulation in the box.......................................... Heat spreaders on the bottom (for flexwatt tape)
IMG_7245sm.JPG IMG_7246sm.JPG

Side insulation................................................. Side slip sheets
IMG_7247sm.JPG IMG_7248sm.JPG

Demo battery placement
IMG_7250sm.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The motor controller, which is a P&S Open Revolt control board coupled with a VLA500 driver board and a 3 IGBT power stage, is built and undergoing, uh, debugging. :)
We managed to blow all 3 IGBTs during the first round of testing.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/open-revolt-igbt-driver-blew-igbts-74629.html
The original wiring was a little messy. That's cleaned up and we had it running a starter motor at 12V today but there's a lot of ringing on the DC bus, which looks to me like the problem that blasted the first 3 IGBTs. The driver signal looks pretty clean though, so we're off to tweaking gate resistors and what-not, like so many before us. Unfortunately neither of us is an EE.

"Before", "After" and the Bench Test Manager and Primary Controller Architect at work.
IMG_7239.JPG IMG_7259.JPG IMG_7257.JPG

Yes, we've only got one IGBT in play for the first round. Blowing all three in an instant makes you a little more circumspect. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The controller saga continues, but I made some progress on the box (and other component) temp monitoring and heating.

Here are two arduinos with xbee wireless communication. One has a series of 4 temperature monitoring chips (same as used by others in this forum).
IMG_7370.JPG IMG_7372.JPG
The sender has a 1.4" LCD serial display for in-car monitoring. The receiver, which will go in the house, has a 1.7" OLED display.

The display screen on the left is the receiver, the OLED, but doesn't do it justice. Side by side it is obvious how much nicer the OLED is, but it was also twice as costly. The black is much deeper and the colors more vivid.
IMG_7378.JPG
The first 4 temp bars are actual live measurements being sent wirelessly. The last two are fake signals to check my bar color-change code. The car has 5 battery boxes with a place for monitoring the battery temp and the flexwatt tape temp for each shown.

The bottom area will be for status messages, etc.
I wish I was more graphically skilled, this could look a lot nicer.

Next task (until the heaters and batteries start going in the boxes) is to hook up some relays to control the flexwatt tape and get the control aspect working.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
FIRST DRIVE TODAY :eek: :)

Works great without having even tweaked it yet!

EV grin from here <------------------------------------------> to here :)

467276_2338110790299_853047267_o.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #16
DC-DC fab and mounting

Though she drove last week, she was a zombie. No 12V power to the car, just main pack to the motor. Now she has a brain; here's the DC-DC fab and mounting.

Vicor 12V bricks (up-trimmed to 13.2V) mounted to 1/4 inch alum plate with a heat sink on the back, phenolic sheet attached for other component mounting.
IMG_7796.jpg

Wiring pretty much complete. Diode and inductor to prevent damage to the bricks from voltage fluctuation per discussions on this board. High voltage fuse. One brick is wired on all the time, the other 3 will come on with the ignition via a relay and the logic input on the bricks.
IMG_7797.jpg

Polycarbonate cover bent with a heat gun.
IMG_7802.jpg

Crap. Lesson: drill the holes FIRST and use a dull-ish drill. On to round two.
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Second cover done and mounted.
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Mounted in the car. I'll tell ya, a del sol doesn't have a lot of room to be wasted. It's a freakin jigsaw puzzle getting this stuff in.
IMG_7810.jpg IMG_7811.jpg

Next up, vacuum pump for brake assist. Yes, I drove with no vacuum assist. It was driveable and safe but took quite a push to stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh, I see I didn't get a pic of the finished rear pack up. Here it is without the polycarbonate covers. Fuse and maintenance switch just visible behind the boxes.

The box heater element wires and temp measurement wires are what are poking up from inside and at the edge of the pack. I've got this large box set up as two independent heating zones.

Celllog8 boards will go on top for monitoring. Thanks to another discussion started in the forums recently about burning out a BMS by splitting a pack, I now realize I won't be able to monitor all the cells: this box has 27 cells and the maintenance switch separates it from the other boxes. So 3 cells will go unmonitored. I'll make sure and pick the middle-of-the-pack cells.

IMG_7786.jpg
 

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Question about the celllog8. How are the powered? If they are powered by the cell they are tapping won't this cause you pack to become unbalanced slowly if they are on 24-7?

BTW nice fab work.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Question about the celllog8. How are the powered? If they are powered by the cell they are tapping won't this cause you pack to become unbalanced slowly if they are on 24-7?

BTW nice fab work.

Ooh, that's a good point, hadn't got to that yet. I was going to do the mod that spreads the draw from all the cells under each celllog but those three will be left out.
I guess for a start I'll not have it on constantly, but I'll have to ponder this... definitely will not be good to have the ones slowly going out of balance be the ones I'm NOT monitoring.

Thanks for the heads-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Barbie has a little road time under her belt and has shown me the following:

Range at 80% DOD is about 60 miles at 65 mph based on a 50 mile trip. Usage is about 270 wH/mile. I should be able to improve that a little - front belly pan is fabbed and I'm doing the tunnel and rear area next, to be followed by blocking the grill.
Around town it's hard to keep the efficiency up because it's too much fun to stomp on the accel a little. There's something about being pushed back into the seat without the loud roar of an ICE....like driving a spaceship :)

0-60 is 12.3 seconds.....with the clutch slipping horribly :(. A new stock clutch.
I bought a Stage 1 performance clutch to put in and I hope that solves that problem. Just means having to pull the engine/trans which is a PITA. The 0-60 time should improve quite a bit though.
 
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