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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,


my name is Remi, and I am a long time EV and Renault enthusiast living in Switzerland.


I have recently started a conversion project on my 1954 Renault 4CV. For those of you not familiar with this european model here's a picture of my little chap:





If you prefer videos, you can also go to my youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/remichanics (or straight on to the latest update at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEeFiIQMEk8).


I am really looking forward to interacting with all of you guys, and if you have any questions please feel free to ask, as I might have some questions to you at a later stage too ;-)!


Best regards,
Remi (R4eCV)
 

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While I'm unlikely to follow the video series, I did watch the first couple of episodes (in 1.75X playback speed, and skipping sections...). I do have one question: why would you think (as you said in episode #22, 3:04 to 3:22) that it is unusual to have the clutch and flywheel mounted to the engine, rather than the transmission? :confused: That's completely conventional; while the occasional rear-mounted transaxle with a front-mounted engine puts the flywheel at the rear, and who knows what weird things Renault and Citroen have done, the flywheel is nearly universally bolted to a flange on the crankshaft, and the pressure plate assembly is bolted to the flywheel, with the clutch disk between them, leaving the transmission with just a splined input shaft to insert into the clutch disk hub. Yes, this means that if you want to retain the clutch you need to mount it (normally using the flywheel, which is otherwise superfluous) to the motor shaft... as is typical in a DIY EV conversion.

The proposed battery voltage is a little off. Tesla Model S/X modules are 6S, so they have a nominal voltage around 22 volts (not 24); four of them will get you a little less than the 96 volts that you planned, unless you're thinking of 96 V as the charging cutoff limit rather than the nominal operating voltage.

It does seem like you have both a good idea of the type of vehicle you want to end up with (keeping much of the character of the 4CV), and what you need to do electrically. :)
 

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Hello Brian

Thanks a million for your reply! Of course nobody will need to watch any videos, but some (especially younger as e.g. my son) people nowadays prefer the video format as it is low-threshold, but I don’t belong to that generation either... but I find it important to expose our hobby also to the younger generation, and YT is one way to do so.

Regarding the Flywheel setup in the R 4CV: The problem is, that the flywheel/clutch assembly is mounted WITHIN the engine, which means that the engine itself forms the clutch bell housing. The gearbox as such has no bell housing at all, so I cannot work with a simple adapter plate as in the “normal” conversions. I will explain that in a build thread as suggested by you, you might also be able to see the problem in the video #22 where you can see the flywheel buried in the engine.

Thanks for your thoughts about the Tesla Battery, I was left in the false impression that a module would be 24V nominal which is wrong. Will have to elaborate this further, maybe even with the help of you experienced guys and gals on here!

Hope this clarifies a few things, and thanks for your comments, they are very much appreciated!

Rgds,
Remi
 

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Regarding the Flywheel setup in the R 4CV: The problem is, that the flywheel/clutch assembly is mounted WITHIN the engine, which means that the engine itself forms the clutch bell housing. The gearbox as such has no bell housing at all, so I cannot work with a simple adapter plate as in the “normal” conversions. I will explain that in a build thread as suggested by you, you might also be able to see the problem in the video #22 where you can see the flywheel buried in the engine.
That's a lot more clear - the flywheel and clutch are normal, and the bellhousing is the problem. That means you'll have to build a bellhousing, if you use a clutch... but that's a discussion for your build thread. :)

Thanks for your thoughts about the Tesla Battery, I was left in the false impression that a module would be 24V nominal which is wrong. Will have to elaborate this further, maybe even with the help of you experienced guys and gals on here!
There seems to be a trend for any battery or module which is somewhere close to a whole multiple of 12 volts to be rounded to that multiple, as if there is something special about increments of 12 V... presumably a leftover from lead-acid battery terminology, which itself is misleading. Lots of people call those Tesla modules "24 V".
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again Brian_ for your comment, and sorry for the misunderstanding with the flywheel/clutch, I think we're on the same sheet of paper now. I will open a build thread soon to make things even more clear :).


Very interested to see if I can find anyone else on here working with old Renault cars too!


Best regards,
Remi.
 
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