About Curtis 1232E Controller's KSI Pin and EM Brake Driver

2588 Views 5 Replies 2 Participants Last post by major, Feb 14, 2018

kucuked

Discussion Starter · Feb 11, 2018 (Edited)

Hello Community,

I am trying to build electric car which have a pair of Curtis 1232E-5221 controllers. The induction motor I used needs 48V to open EM brake, however I am using LiFePO4 battery pack its voltage when fully charged is 54V. I supply controller's B+ and B- with this battery pack, however I am afraid if 54V system damages motor's brake contactor coils. How can I solve this problem? In the programming interface nominal voltage can be set up to 48V but I am supplying it with 54V in full charge and after using it decreases till 47V. I am confused how to set pulling and holding voltage.

I supplied KSI pin with 24V external power supply in order to pull HIGH to reverse, forward and interlock pins when it is needed by PLC. But this did not allow me to turn EM Brake and Mains contactor ON. (By the way mains contactor coil voltage is 24V.)

I also faced arcs during turning on after I immediately turned off contactor of battery pack, is that normal?

I need your helps. Thank you in advance.

Best Regards

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major

· #2 · Feb 12, 2018

Hi kuc,

54 volts does not sound excessive for a 48V nominal system. I suspect it would not be a problem for the EM brake coil. You should be using the drivers (outputs from the controller) which can be programmed for pull-in and hold voltage levels.

You should not experience any arcs. You will need to post more details including your wiring diagram and photos for us to help you with that.

Welcome to the forum.

major

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kucuked

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 13, 2018

Hello again,

I solved the arc problem by placing arc supressor. Brakes are working without a problem but when I touch the outside of motor it is really hot around 80C.

I removed the main contactor and pulled driver pin to KSI voltage. Then tried giving first start, however motor was struggling at current limits and rotating slowly. I swapped the phases but nothing has changed.

I checked programming interface and even if reverse or forward pin is pulled HIGH motor was trying to spin at the same direction.

I attached my wiring diagram, could you please check what is wrong with this my wiring?

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major

· #4 · Feb 14, 2018

Why do you use an external PSU 24V? Why did you put 24V to the encoder?

Where are you? Please go to use CP and fill in your location. Also, can you lean on the dealer from whom you purchased the drives for technical assistance?

Photos of your system would help us visualize what's going on. Also, are you working from the manual? A link to the manual or wiring instructions you're using will help.

major

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kucuked

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 14, 2018

major said:
Why do you use an external PSU 24V? Why did you put 24V to the encoder?

I just wanted to simulate what would happened if I control switches using directly PLC outputs.
Encoder supply voltage range was 9V to 30V.

major said:
Where are you? Please go to use CP and fill in your location. Also, can you lean on the dealer from whom you purchased the drives for technical assistance?

I updated my location, asked to dealer no response was given so I decided to consult the experts in this forum.

major said:
Photos of your system would help us visualize what's going on. Also, are you working from the manual? A link to the manual or wiring instructions you're using will help.

I attached manual I use if you can check I would appreciate.

Thank you.

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major

· #6 · Feb 14, 2018

kucuked said:
I just wanted to simulate what would happened if I control switches using directly PLC outputs.
...

Hello kuc,

I will have to bow out. I have no experience with this method. I suspect it will not work and it is possible you have damaged the controller by applying 24V to pins intended as outputs and such. I strongly recommend that you wire it exactly per the manual. The attachment appears correct.

Good luck.

major

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About Curtis 1232E Controller's KSI Pin and EM Brake Driver

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