[prawn]

Hi,

First post here. Doing an EV swap with used parts. The wiring is still a spaghetti nightmare, but it’s driving, stopping, reversing. Running an AC75 through a 5spd transmission. Mid-engine van.

The Elcon PFC 5000 draws 30A. I have a 16A AstonEves charger that can plug into 120v, or 240v. I need to use 120v for the time being (due to location).

Anyone know how to get the Elcon to pull less amps? I was told that the AstonEves would only provide 16A, but when I plug it into the system, the breaker in the AstonEves drops and cancels charging.

Thanks! Any other feedback on the build welcome. Getting there

 

[remy_martian]

Don't you need to set the maximum current in the Elcon with a CAN message? Unless there's software and a PC interface that's all I can think of.

Did you read the manual?

 

[prawn]

Purchased used, so I don’t have all the documents. I’m using the same battery setup that it was pre-programmed for.

A Nissan Leaf comes with a 6kw onboard charger. You can charge it with a 30A fast charger, or a 10A portable charger, or pretty much any charging cable (8A to 32A) if you’re willing to wait long enough. The vehicle even comes with a 120v charging cable for “emergencies”. It’ll never blow the breaker in the charging cable

This Elcon is a 5kw onboard charger. It’ll take 30A as well, but it can’t accept anything lower?

Does the charging cable determine anything, or is it completely up to the onboard charger in the vehicle? Doesn’t make sense that a $300+ item acts as a glorified extension cord…

 

[remy_martian]

Your setup with that Mickey Mouse J1772 charge port fakeout is nowhere close to doing it the right way, so don't even go there with the Leaf nonsense.

That thing is a fire waiting to happen, or worse, you may be buying a $50,000 public charger you messed up by telling it to give you everything it's got with that fakeout box.

lol. No documentation?

Download the manual

Read it.

It's out there in the open and I'm not going to read it for you.

You need to go in and set your charger every time for the maximum plug current if you need it changed. Live with it or read the manual and learn how to set it.

Once you get tired of the routine, you might light a fire under your butt and implement the J1772 charge port to where it tells the charger what the max EVSE current is... like a Leaf.

You have sone reading to go do. Get intimate with it because what you traded in your great monetary deal for an EV is your time.

 

[prawn]

You’re talking like you deal with a hundred schlubs a day on these forums. Oh wait.

Would be great to see your charging setup. Now is the best time to change direction, not after starting an unscheduled fireworks display downtown.

Seems like that AstonEves isn't the right choice either. Do you have any recommendations for a 120/240v capable charger?

Manual has already been read, I'm not understanding the communication between the charger and each different charging cable. Seemed like these Elcon's were the way to go, but maybe that was 12yrs ago when the donor EV I bought was built.

 

[pdove]

Hi,

First post here. Doing an EV swap with used parts. The wiring is still a spaghetti nightmare, but it’s driving, stopping, reversing. Running an AC75 through a 5spd transmission. Mid-engine van.

The Elcon PFC 5000 draws 30A. I have a 16A AstonEves charger that can plug into 120v, or 240v. I need to use 120v for the time being (due to location).

Anyone know how to get the Elcon to pull less amps? I was told that the AstonEves would only provide 16A, but when I plug it into the system, the breaker in the AstonEves drops and cancels charging.

Thanks! Any other feedback on the build welcome. Getting there

Yes, I know how the Elcon works and how to make it pull less amps.

There are two software loads available. One uses CAN bus interface and you feed it volts and amps you want in CAN messages once a second.

The other option is to have a pre-programmed algorithm that runs when you put 12volts on pin 1 of the front 7 pin DIN connector.

The CAN option is obviously more versatile in that you just tell it what you want.

The enable option (which I suspect you have) has to be reprogrammed if you want it to pull less current.